at the beginning of the war, signs of ukrainian identity became a real world trend, the first people in the world wear ukrainian embroidered dresses, the ukrainian flag flies in the windows of citizens on all continents , and ancient ukrainian jewelry and clothes become fashionable and in demand, but the fascination with everything ukrainian began not only from the outside, self-awareness of oneself as a ukrainian, immersion in history and here the desire to touch everything ukrainian well, it also arose inside the country, or the crisis of the spirit of identity, or we have to admit that with the beginning of the great war has passed many people. well, about the path to self-awareness as a nation, about the destruction of the soviet government, the ukrainian identity, and about the evolution of ukrainian clothing. let's talk today at the night party . i think that with you, we will definitely look for answers to all these questions and reveal them. thank you for visiting, thank

you, and there are sharp issues in this topic that need to be discussed , so it's that simple. yes, we are all on the one hand rushed into this ukrainian ethnic group, but that's why we wanted to talk about this topic, we were inspired by a post on facebook by marina, er , srebybnaya, er, with ottawa, she wrote a post that simply went viral on facebook, more than 5,000 reposts, tens of thousands of comments yes, she touched on the subject of sharovarshchyna. yes, i want to quote a fragment of a woman when you dress in ukrainian style, please do a feet checking to see if you are bringing sharovarshchyna into the world instead of ukrainian clothing. i sometimes see but my eyes hurt and my heart hurts because we foreigners watch and remember that this means that she is ukraine. what is sharovarschyna - it is something that the soviet union carefully planted in us so diligently that some people still perceive it as real ukrainian, in other words, the replacement of ethnic diversity with a

bad taste. and shirts are stamped without meaningful embroidery where necessary and where not necessary sending acid-bright colors that burn the eyes simplifying ethnic clothing to a carnival costume and here she published in her post a huge number of photos of incredibly beautiful , bright, authentic ukrainian clothing and a comparison of what was considered ukrainian clothing for many years, but in fact it is sharovarschyna, well layered, let’s go on. then we will talk about separate topics. why is our national identity expressed today well, let's go from general to clothes ukraine is creating trends in the world today because all eyes are directed to ukraine, and in essence ukraine is introducing a fashion

for healthy nationalism, for sincere, passionate love for one's nation, for one's country, and indeed, it seems to me that it will affect european countries and a large number of asian countries, including the wearing of national clothes in everyday life in the office on some family holidays, you know, this is not the shame of this love, it should have its own visual manifestation, and of course the first obvious visual manifestation is clothes, that is, put on an embroidered shirt and declare that you are ukrainian to everyone around you and to the whole world, and really the vyshyvanka is very uplifting, it lifts our spirits , and today your vyshyvanka definitely brightens us up, it lifts our spirits. thank you, uh, and by the way, you can see

the modern reading of the vyshyvanka, here we are roosters are very fashionable now, you know why these roosters are vintage , now everyone is looking for them on olx they dig for them , the price has risen, and the rooster is now a symbol of indomitability , yes, and i will tell you, and such militancy, militancy, uh, and again, returning to our identity, yes, what was said about plastic crowns, what was said about really there some t-shirts may not be of the best quality, let's be honest, this is a sign that ukrainianness is ukrainianness and any manifestation of our identity, it is extremely popular, so much so that in our market it has been picked up on a wild current and they produce everything possible, starting from keychains and ending

there with satin pants, i remember when i was a child i went to folk dances and we had all these costumes if there was a lighter somewhere near them god forbid a match was brought up i thought that the whole ensemble would have been busy, but i did not become an object of ridicule so, in order not to say to us, you are engaged in sarovarshchy, which you do not need to do to express your identity, look at the very fine line, first of all, we must understand that we are all for ecology now, the eco trend is very active, so we must understand that the things we buy must be ukrainian high-quality, i.e. less synthetics, more natural fabrics, it is better to buy one embroidered shirt made of natural linen than to buy a bunch of synthetic ones, you know, different accessories, the second point is very important, you don’t need to completely blend into the outfit in everyday life, we can put on a shirt, we can really wear

harem pants, these harem pants, which are now in fashion called aladdin, our cossack harem pants, they are surprisingly relevant now. if these harem pants are not made of red satin, but, for example, of black wool, gray wool, of some fabrics that were made then and as close as possible to them, well of historical materials that were used for this and that is correct, but on the other hand, you understand, the world is changing . now not so much goals have been achieved as our armed forces are now, well, the whole world is amazed that you are what a miracle they are doing and the same with fashion, fashion also changes in the same way that weapons change, how our everyday life changes and we have to understand that this fashion is national, it must correspond nowadays it should be comfortable for us to wear it. and how did you come to the point where you started making embroidered patterns and

sewing them? here is your personal story . with i remember this organism and in the first memories from childhood, how my mother embroiders a shirt for me on canvas, my great-grandmother wove it herself - this is the canvas she also has, you know, this fashionable burlap of this color, and my mother embroiders me with red and black threads, as in the song, i remember this to me and my father has the same embroideries and after the revolution of dignity took place, even during the entire revolution, there was a request from my friends because i went all the time to embroideries. even in the revolution of dignity, we also had to have some kind of flag, and this flag became a de facto embroidered

dress because politicians began to wear it abroad, and i started wearing them, and my friends asked that we also need it, and in fact, i made several dresses just for friends, their friends also saw it and it happened , you know how word of mouth marketing took place , and literally two or three months later we were already selling these embroidered clothes in the countries of the middle east, and then selfie approached us six months later. i still couldn’t name the brand for a long time and then to me they advised me to name the brand with my own name, then you definitely won't throw it away, i did so and that's it. i'm still engaged in embroidering and i think that i'm a very happy woman. i'm trying to understand the phenomenon of why exactly at the beginning of the war, ukrainians were so drawn to the ukrainian and self-identity precisely in clothes and now well, there are simply crazy

auctions going on there to buy ukrainian embroidered women, searching in some ancient jewelry, people are trying to buy something, to buy something, and i thought that when our military is defending there country at the front each of us tried to protect our country in some way it was because of joining ourselves to this ancient ukrainian culture that we bought an embroidered dress, put it on, put on some jewelry, show off this social armor , and it happened at the moment when ukrainians started not just yes, ukraine has its own cultural heritage, we have to protect it, but these were words, but now it has become real. it is an awareness, and not that it is a necessity, but a part of ukraine, it became part of it. each of us and let's add something to our broadcast lesya voronyuk cultural curator er founder of the vyshyvanka museum and let's talk with her about

this unique our today er i will try to find myself find my identity in clothes good evening ms. lesya did you hear the part of our conversation, how do you understand and how do you trace this phenomenon to ukrainians, touch on self-identity and try to find some ancient things and join this cultural code of ours. the fact is that culture is always was a marker of the identity of each people. why is there such attention to embroidered shirts and, in general, to other parts of the outfit or wardrobe because this visual culture is the culture of visual identity that is the most understandable. that is, you see a person with an embroidered shirt and you can immediately

identify him whether in ukraine or even abroad, and secondly, when a person wears an embroidered shirt, it means that he has already matured to certain decisions and to certain understandings of himself, that is, who he is by nationality and to the understanding of his place in the system of both national values ​​and state values ​​and many other factors of identity today such a surge is happening again. by the way, it is not the first time in the 30 years of independence. that is, every revolution a-a increased e-e attention to e-e shirts to language to history because today there is a war of civilizations, and we, as an intellectual, very ancient, highly developed people, are protesting to absolutely cave people,

so we try as much as possible to mark ourselves, to show our values that here we are - this is our culture - this is our land and we will protect it and you mentioned the cave people eh hmm it seems you meant russians and that today russia in the world is a vodka matryoshka balalaika and what is ukraine today in the world so if you were told, name the associations that challenge you , ukraine, and whether we managed to achieve this, that , that desire to show ukraine as it really is, as we really are. if we talk about today's associations with ukraine, the embroidered shirt actually began to be associated with ukraine to be uh, um, a kind of code of ukraine abroad , uh, this happened at least 5-7 years ago, uh, and we, as

the founders of the vyshyvanka day holiday, very well tracked this paradigm of evolution today, ukraine is associated not only with uh, what it is uh a beautiful country and with the fact that it is a very brave and courageous country and in my opinion, we need to fix this trend of bravery and courage for ourselves, and this will allow us to become one of the european leaders of the leading countries after the victory , and this is precisely our culture our history today is the basis for us to hold back and be brave today if we are talking about traditional culture, it is possible to observe. by the way, not only as in clothes, and how, for example, in

folk epics, heroes are rebroadcasted again. are being updated, for example, you probably know well the paintings with the image of the cossack mamai, and now there are simply tens of hundreds of other metaphors already with modern ukrainian warriors, and this is also a very important and unique process of how a new heroic ukrainian epic is created, which we we will study as culturologists in tens of years, and the world already perceives it now. well, as for embroidered shirts, they also evolve and are sensitive to what is happening in society. maybe you buy noticed that now a lot of modern embroidered shirts embroidered in the military style and on green fabric, too. the

trendy embroidered shirt with the image of military personnel or with other symbols related to the armed forces and our army has become such a trend. that is, culture, visual culture is a mirror of what is experienced society because here it will be appropriate to show a fragment of volunteers who developed a pixel embroidery, girls in transcarpathia organized the production of clothes for the armed forces, sewed uniforms and at some point decided to create an otaku to start production of pixel embroidery, and they are called the first sewing brigade and here we took some photos, i want to look at them and ask our experts, but how interesting is such a project and how much does it have the right to exist because you know, the main thing is that we don't go too

far in our projects and initiatives, well, but what about me? well, it looks good on a man on a man in a military uniform . well, it's cool. let's leave this question behind the scenes, but uh, uh, it's interesting what your opinion is, uh, and ms. yulia, uh, about that, as well as ms. lesi , and about that. forces and so on the introduction of the pixel into the national clothing and the idea with the vyshyvanka e-e in the pixel - this is an absolutely unique idea in the context if you consider the periodization of culture, you understand what a unique phenomenon is happening just now because we will not need such embroidered vyshyvankas in 30 or 50 years, but

now this phenomenon has arisen, how did it happen, you talked about how much we can try to experiment with modern art. can modern fashion afford to experiment to infinity? and art itself it's about an infinite number of variations, that's why the idea with a pixem is, by the way, a single photo, i can name at least 10 or 15 other brands , which are also working now with a military theme , the other thing is that there is an absolutely traditional culture the traditional understanding of the ukrainian outfit, and there are teams of reenactors who reproduce ancient clothing in detail. and sometimes professional discussions may arise between designers and reenactors, and whether that uh. in my opinion and

based on my experience, i can make a single the conclusion that there should be both traditional outfits that are kept in museums, modern reenactors who reproduce these outfits absolutely authentically, and modern designers who experiment e and through e personal life experience and through the experience of the whole society create completely new modern images, i.e. art culture imagine it's the same, for example, as cars were the first, the second, the tenth, now we have electric cars, if there is no evolution in some industries, this is immediately a story about stagnation. this cannot be culture, art, fashion and ethno-fashion must also develop in us, a representative of modern culture and one can say the evolution of embroidered fashion yuliya

magdych came to our studio not empty -handed, we can come closer to see the embroidered dresses that you talked about on our broadcast today so that we will talk about traditional now i want yulia to talk about modern trends. and, as an example, she showed the evolution of vyshyvanka in the form that it is. let's be so close to you. what does it mean ? certain symbolism and some people wear an embroidered dress and don't know that it can even attract evil, so what does this pattern mean on this dress well, actually, this is a continuation of the theme with pixels because we called this collection pixel flowers and this this is also the interpretation of ancient embroidery and symbolism. not only symbols have the colors and size of flowers,

for example, traditional roses in yellow and blue. a rose carries energy into life. and depending on the color, we can interpret in different ways, why i brought all the yellow-blue dresses to the transfer today is because the pantone color institute, as you already know, chose yellow-blue as the two colors of the year 2022, the colors of our flag are in trend as much as possible this year. yes, we will definitely to also be in trend to meet world trends, but in addition, this is our current method because vyshyvanka is now quite a tip, it seems to me its popularity, because if we squeeze out of this maximum for the popularization of ukraine, it seems to me that it is necessary and if let's accept what you said, why is vyshyvanka becoming even more popular because, literally, in 1992, they considered themselves ukrainians, if i'm not

mistaken, 64% of those who live in ukraine, according to the questions, it's about identity, and now it's already 93% . that is, even those people who are not ukrainians by nationality, they now consider themselves ukrainians, and of course each of these people wants to buy a vyshyvanka or some element of national clothing, well, your vyshyvankas are quite popular in the world, but how much has the demand increased have you noticed the wars on them today, who orders the most who wants to buy our ukrainian vyshyvanka, look, in fact, this is a phenomenon and explains why, in principle, you can imagine that you and i, today, we put on, for example, a sari, or put on a burqa, or put on, for example, a bavarian national suit, well, it was strange to say the least, i don’t imagine myself like that, and we

see in the world that everyone is a translator now, everyone is in one way or another. it has something to do with relatives and style. the same valentina created a collection inspired by ukrainian embroideries or the same dior who created a collection with national ukrainian embroideries and now the decorations for dior for the show were also made by a ukrainian artist, now our dior valentino you also what i want to say you are very correct your 5 kop ukrainians pit scoffed at the fact that we used to say that ukraine is the center of the universe, so it turns out to be true and adam and eve also come from ukraine. i think so, and i want to tell you that this is a very important story because they in fact, they are promoting what is happening in our country. i think this is not entirely correct, because the investments should all coincide in ukraine. they

should go to ukrainian designers, ukrainian artists, artists, ukrainian creators, what is happening and why is it not in the volume we need today and because the logistics are very difficult, you have seen the queues at the border. and we see that the sea is now closed to us and, unfortunately, the customs services have to serve the flow two to three times higher than it was before, and for example, we have fashion industries. we are faced with the problem that we, for example , order things from us, but unfortunately we cannot deliver them quickly, for example, mascara to america, so it is absolutely more convenient to go to europe to look at dior and acquire a taste, and here we have three or four weeks, even the most high-quality products give the delivery time. and of course it seems to me that it is a brand that is being promoted now on the ukrainian topic. i wouldn’t call it otherwise. well,

it seems a little inappropriate and important to me. even a little cynical, we could say that what you are saying is that it is being done in order to to keep ukraine is in the information field, but in fact it is not like that. that is, these are just some associative stories with ukrainian culture that they use at the moment. it is an unpleasant truth, but it is so and we must also talk about it. so, returning to culture, what we talked about as our vyshyvanka promotes our culture abroad. we are used to talking about the fact that culture is theater, ballet, painting. we forget about the basic culture of everyday life. the culture of everyday life defines a nation.

when they were taken out, some were taken out . communication between us ukrainians inside the commune well, i am there where the apartments in which they found vyshyvankas were looted more brutally than others and even burned the houses in which they found vyshyvankas well, this fact has already been noticed and traced well, you know, this once again confirms that our ukrainians are annoyed by the fact that we have an identity, they tried to destroy it, but it's the same thanks to our armed forces, they didn't succeed, even god, even their historian keramzin, he writes that when leaving russia

, all these houses are in russia bent it is like some kind of work of modern art, they each almost fall apart, the children are all smeared, ragged and in tatters. and when they enter the territory of ukraine, they meet a completely different picture, children in armor, and he says that even the poorest people could make their own boots in no one walked in sandals in ukraine, that is, the culture of ukrainian life is an age-old culture, starting with the trypil culture and continuing with the kyiv movement . then there was the cossack culture, after all, they received a lot of good things from europe, brought here, and in addition, it affected ukrainian culture, and we are now proud descendants of our ancestors are all in the culture of everyday life , and in fact, why our

vyshyvanka is so beautiful, it is not for nothing. ukrainian embroidery, but ukrainian embroidery , ukrainian embroidery and the ukrainian identity itself, they also experienced difficult times when the same soviet authorities tried to destroy them and understood the importance of this a-a and treated it no less seriously than political repressions a-a than the destruction of ukrainian language, so i suggest that we continue to talk about it now take a short break our traditional motivational videos and then we will return to our studio september 21 day chernihiv ukraine is powerful this is a football stadium in

in the city of irpin, a new generation of ukrainian football players used to train here, and now it has been abandoned because of the war, i know the goalkeeper protects the goal from the enemy's ball, but how to protect it from the enemy's russian rocket, i want the fans to accept the player or not, but how to accept this unbearable silence in the stands today continues the war in ukraine, russian athletes continue to be silent, and this silence is silent support for terror.

the national team is fighting for victory outside, share your posts with the hashtags of the company and call for a boycott of russian athletes, support ukraine at the sports fund silence kills with the support of the ministry of youth and sports of ukraine watch the project to find your kateryna osadchoi from the search for the missing every monday at 21:30 1+ 1 is back on the air night watch and i want to ask our guest lesya voronya, a cultural curator, about how this ukrainian heritage of identity, ukrainian jewelry, ukrainian vyshyvanka, which everyone is now trying to get from

grandmother's chests, how they survived the most terrible times and the attempts of the soviet authorities to destroy the all-ukrainian. how important it was for the ukrainian identity to preserve this and how we preserved all this, it is necessary to understand that when the ukrainians even lost their independence and we did not have an independent state in certain periods of history, our identity was preserved precisely thanks to the first - the language and traditions and the things that surrounded us, that is, embroidered shirts, embroidered towels, and ukrainian