[000:00:00;00] when i understand that i am no longer what i do not bring out, but that it triggers me and catches up with me constantly, well, that's how it was, that's why i think that there cannot be universal recipes here, everyone has to find some kind of internal balance , i will finally find my internal balance, when er, my i hope prophetic lines from if from the red book about chekhov’s dacha poem i have a dacha lazutkin will be realized when instead of 10 chekhov there will be an artistic residence in gurzuf for ukrainian writers , artists and musicians, as well as for representatives of the friendly countries of lithuania, poland and so on, because chekhov was there only a few times, mostly his wife was there, as if chekhov lived there, the place is beautiful and it should

somehow be introduced into the ukrainian context. in january 2023 , you presented your, uh, 16 embroidery designs, yes, your collection, the name of which is embroidery from couture of the third millennium, of course. yes, we understand that the collection itself was prepared during the already full-scale invasion of the show was preparing during a full-scale invasion. by the way, you worked this year not with professional models, but actually with actors of the opera house. yes, it was a conscious decision. how did you develop the concept ? how did you work on the collection and how did you work on the concept of the show ? guesses about the fact that i will make a collection because it was not at the right time, it was not for the time, and in fact it was impromptu, and because at some point i surely realized that without

a collection i still cannot do without embroideries i can't do my own either, although in fact i thought that i had already closed this topic after the last show . well , it seemed to me that i had already developed myself completely on this topic. come up with if for yourself and uh, well, everyone came to work and of course there is less work but at the moment when you understand that you are responsible not only for yourself but for the entire labor team and there are girls who look you in the eyes from lviv and the hope is that they don't want to go abroad i still have to provide them with some kind of work , then i had the thought that well, there is no light, but you can embroider with a cross, so we took up this project. i got to the opera for the premiere, in general, it all turned out very spontaneously, usually i have a collection of at least 31, but here there were only 16, well, they were almost ready, and i

got to the opera for the premiere before the new year and realized that people want communication and that it is normal and the people are all sold out, the hall is full, everyone is clapping, they are not letting the actors go, and well, i understood what it is, something must be done , and i came to the director of the theater and said that i would like to do something except maybe, the first thought was in general, well, again god is punishing me there for the fact that my first thought was to do something in the bomb shelter, and as you can see, it ended with the fact that exactly 5 minutes to ten years ago, anxiety began. well, more about that later, and actually when we started talking about what to do and went down in this bomb shelter is very beautiful there, white, clean, and mr. vasyl tells me, well, oksana, it’s not serious , there shouldn’t be such beautiful things in a bomb shelter , let’s go crazy and make a hall of mirrors, and that’s how it all started, and then maybe

an idea came well, ballet actually was a conscious thought because as for me, well, i have no right fashion in which is show business to bring to this day in time of war, the whole exercise of moral is this is my feeling, but the collection is vyshyvanka is accordingly, we came to such a decision that it should still be some kind of just an artistic event and not fashion but the very concept of embroidery yes what kind of patterns i saw that you actually worked with a textile company that specially developed embroidered patterns yes uh what regions why exactly these symbols and how they laid down the following for myself, i closed the topic of regions and the relevance to regions long enough ago and for sure this was the right decision because, see, it's all ours and disunity, unfortunately, led to what we have today ukraine must to unite by one big cultural front and no regions and there is no need to divide

them in fact of course there are some genetic codes in each region, but how come in my opinion it is not very right to divide us now and that is why this topic has long since gone away well my the teachers probably would have kicked me out of the academy of arts, but that’s all because i was taught completely differently. women and for our peasants who embroidered in the regions. they sat for two years, they created the embroidered dress for themselves for weddings there or for some solemn events . - and somewhere on the other hand, i also allowed myself to make my own ornaments , to create, that is, since we are already in the third millennium, let's create our own symbols, and actually ksenia umanska

contributed a lot to that and all these ideas it was actually the creation of symbols and the main symbol was chosen as a star that shines for us and ukrainians and our victories, which should also shine in the starry sky because when there is a starfall you can make good wishes on the run, and then we made a wish and of course plus i always save old embroideries in parallel that fall into my hands eh i don't care once in london eh well, i had my moments there , i just didn't have a ticket to see us at the defile and she didn't get in and she said out of anger or images that the caravan brought chopped ukraine to london well somehow so am i i just want to say once again through your broadcast that i don't cut down i save ugh, and actually my next question was about this, you are already driving me so uh, actually, how exactly do you approach the rescue of embroidered women and uh, and that 's you already

you have been working with the theme of embroidery of the third millennium for seven years. this is how you evolved in general in your approach to work with embroidery. first of all, my collection was actually couture made for the united states. i had a very nice invitation to new york , you know. well, art club is so very respectable. a beautiful building well, you can't see a lot of beautiful things there there are those old buildings in new york, their clubs are something phenomenal, they are simply very beautiful. well, i had such an honor, and actually it fell on the 14th year. so, and well, we prepared for a year, that is, everything is very serious there for me they prepare their events a year or two in advance, and i had hoped that it would happen. of course, we could not refuse, but on the other hand, on the contrary, it was probably for the better, because we very loudly said what kind of ukrainians we are and that we are a modern nation . and what we can do these are the things modern this was the first my banknote story, and the second couture story actually arose already in lviv. when i left the ukrainian fashion week because well, i didn't see

a place for myself there, young people appeared there and let them work there, i already felt a little it's interesting. that's all. topic. that's what i was actually looking for. well, how to express myself, after all, in ukraine . i don't think anyone does couture. and i will do it, and it was also such a small protest against the fact that there were an awful lot of these charming embroideries like that. i understand that it also has to the right to life, but after that, when a lady from hutsuls told me that she orders them from china, i was torn by this. i don’t think ukrainian embroidered women should be in ukraine , period, and i made the idea to go to the museum to see what is being done there, and suddenly i saw that in the museum, in the storage rooms, in our ethnographic otaku, there are such luxurious things packed, and no one sees them, no one shows them. and i actually had the idea to take those things of theirs to the museum, well, it was very difficult to come to an agreement there, they signed

a million documents, but the director still turned out to be quite progressive and understood that clothes should be worn, that is, this is my main such evidence base was that people sewed clothes in order to wear them, and not so that they were packed in closets, and we actually did this project in support and rescue of all these things, maybe they were lying uncleaned, well, museums don’t have enough funds for this, all in order to take them out, refresh them and somehow present them somewhere , that’s exactly why we collected funds, and at the same time, i started looking for very, very old destroyed embroideries, and they fell into my hands quite a lot, and even at work i have such older women who damaged something somewhere at home, one even managed to save it from burning because they were cleaning the attic, and well , the woman took it to herself, she says about me there on it is insured, i will burn it, we saved it of course it was destroyed somewhere , eaten by mice, somewhere there, straightened, that is , in such a way that it was impossible to use it, and we had to naturally

cut out these embroideries and restore it a little they made this first show, where there were both ancient things and modern things , it was a kind of symbiosis, they did this, well , everything started from this and it continued. to wear because i read a lot of materials about a cat that can destroy, and they also do not recommend cutting, they recommend sewing off and making copies of old embroidery, how do you comment on it ? look, for example, i think that there are very worthy things that are definitely worth museums. but i have a lot of problems with all of this for me as a designer, the replica is not interesting in general, because it is simply well , you take someone else's work, someone else's idea and worry about it. i am interested in creating something of my own.

i understand that there are epidurals and stains, but really , my grandmother taught me how to sew an embroidered cloth to be worn. believe me, i was told that these scraps that we save also have a place in the museum and a cool frame to put them in. and here is the answer. i also started why me at all i made this project because there are so many of them in the museum, so many of them, no one sees this beauty, and again, just nail it there on a hanger, it doesn’t look like that , it looks much more beautiful on the human body , so, well, the museum is out of place in museums, and because they are not in museums, i believe that they should be passed on to everyone as an inheritance and worn, and if they are destroyed and cannot be restored , the canvases themselves should be saved in some other way. so this is my position and i have a lot against this stands out many ethnographers, as you say, and museum workers, and not only, but this is my position , and then i will ask you and how do you see it? yes , we understand that there are a lot of embroiderers in ukraine, that is, the embroidery process is

so traditional that it took place until about 40-50 years ago. the way you see museification and the preservation of embroideries as heritage, this system should work. well, for sure, this is more of a question for museum workers. i don't have such an answer. how should it work ? what was embroidered eh well, for example, look here. i have such a story. my personal family story, when my grandmother embroidered a very beautiful embroidered dress for herself for a wedding, and she was my lady, and she did not embroider on canvas, she embroidered on a marquise, it is a very thin fabric that does not lend itself at all restoration in principle. that is, it is so thin and delicate and transparent that it is simply all ruined. do you want to say that i should not wear a woman 's embroidered skirt? no, i will wear it. i wear it and my daughter wears it and we will continue to wear it because

i removed all of it. sewed and i will continue to wear it and restore it again in the same way and will wear it , and now i, uh, i want to take issue with your previous thesis. the invasion of this interest has increased a huge interest in ukrainian vyshyvankas, but which are used by mass brands. that is, we now see an incredible number of vyshyvankas interpretations of vyshyvankas, for example, let's say this work by yasi khomenko, which also rethinks vyshyvanka or vyshyvanka is some kind of er moment in the modern world, my interest is whether ukrainians returning to their culture restore er their cultural code and restore the desire to wear embroidered clothes well , let's start with the fact that vyshyvanka is simply very beautiful

therefore, if there was an interest it was because of this reason and not because of the restoration of the code . of course, there were moments of interest when ukraine was dry, then people were interested in what ukraine is and came across an embroidered book and bought it . believe me, it was not because they were interested in ukraine because simply it is very beautiful, that is why it has the right to life, it will continue to be used constantly, and all these interpretations have the right to life and we are moving, well , for example, that's why i made this modern embroidery, what do you call the third millennium , because i think that well, we have the right to twist our vyshyvankas, we don’t have to pursue these classic collections, they are equal there because , for example, my grandmother, who taught me all this, always told me that oksana, you know why they cut like that because they didn’t have tailors because they knew that there was a piece of canvas, they cut it in as it turned out, all three embroidery pieces should also be modern, in my opinion, which is very many of the designers. by the way, everything was very correct, very beautiful.

they will wear it, logically, is there a question of ethics, yes, are there conditionally those who have the right to work with it, let's say if foreign designers work with vyshyvanka, yes, uh, do they already give aha, they already talk more about it, well , i won't now you should definitely let me say, because i don't i will remember, for example, you know, the most typical , the most classic, the comparative picture is when the max mara brand in its second line made the absolutely ternopil borscht embroidery, well, absolutely simple , identical. beautiful. od kutyu od couture and actually, fashion and designers are trying to respond to society's demand, and that's why we see, in addition to embroidered dresses, that many people are asking

this. that's because the demand was huge, but in addition, there are a lot of t-shirts with, say, dog characters . recently, i saw an advertisement for children's sportswear in the color of pixel, which is very similar to the uniform of the armed forces. is it normal or is there an ethical limit in working with some modern symbols, especially if these symbols explain very traumatic events for society and how fast-paced is the fashion for this. well, for example, personally, i have always been a categorical opponent of the use of pixel and the use of military themes, because war is a great sorrow and, let's say, build on i personally am not interested in this fashion, although it is a very common phenomenon and in fact fashion is a social social product, that is, if there was a war somewhere in africa , similar to african military costumes appeared, some details, there was a war there , for example, well, comrade patriotic no no my countryman, i apologize profusely. when the second world war happened , it was the same, and then there were many of these equal shoulders

, all of whom were against it. well, i would not press for patriotism. that is, everyone decides for himself, but i am personally against it. for example, such history as a cartridge, well, it is beautiful, it is much better to have a cartridge on a t-shirt than some foreign cartoon and cheburashka of some kind, if we turn to the history of fashion, then in the 50s after the second world war, for example, very m "what women's silhouettes are big winged skirts. yes, we remember the post-war collection of louis vuitton or coco chanel, probably the most. because it's not a bow, it's just its history and its own. feminine and beautiful just after the war now we live in another war with different roles but how do you see the silhouettes and how do you see the post-war style

, is it even possible to think about it now ? - this is such a cosmopolitan product, accordingly, it is global, it is not close to ukrainian and narrowly european, and therefore it seems to me that it will not differ in any way from what is, in principle, the demand of world society. and if we talk from the other side i.e., after the start of the full-scale invasion of ukraine, an incredible interest appeared, we are actually observing it in all products, types of culture, branches of culture. dictate your own rules. there is one rule. if you are an interesting designer , it doesn't matter. where do you read from ukraine or not ? it's just huge for us right now, well, it can be so ugly and cruel to say, but in reality

, the war forced us to discover a very big a window of opportunity. that is, she stimulated us to move somewhere. and that is why we are moving, and if our product is interesting , they will buy it only because it is made in ukraine, made in ukraine. they can buy a t-shirt there for about 20 € and no more, but actually the designer product itself will be bought only in the case that we simple designers will be interested and you see the interest in ukrainian designers , that is , is the interest very high? it will work, if you can continue to fuel this interest, then you are successful. and i will ask you one more thing. that is, we know famous fashion houses that have their shawarmas all over the world, so there are huge queues for them. i was recently in germany, in fact, i saw what kind of queue was in guchi that is, people were let through a couple of pieces and they were standing

. is it likely that some ukrainian designers already have their shawarmas of education ? that is, it is a very expensive business, and in order for your turn to be behind you, you have to do everything perfectly, and in addition, you have to have a margin of safety, that is, if it is released, for example , i have now made a collection, i will have a request for it, if i do not have the opportunity industrially to continue it accordingly well, there won't be a queue for me, well, it will end with the fact that i will sell my 16 dresses and shirts and i will do something for myself there. and if i have an industry, if i can do what is called in nasmarket, respectively, well, or just in large quantities then there can be a queue if someone likes it, of course. well, plus pr - it is also very expensive without pr. unfortunately, the business is still not moving anywhere, we all understand this, and actually if we are talking about the production of several copies, then it is possible to move to

the mass market well, you decided not to do it because you have, you want to do couture things, or is it not possible yet? no, i also have a story, we call it ready couture, that is, with ksenia umanska, we have now made a new project this collaboration is with me textile designer, and we will now bring to europe the actual product that will be, well, not available from the market, i will not insult it like that, that is, of course, it will also be exclusive, but actually the possibility of repetitions depends on the number of orders. therefore, there will also be embroidery and not only ukrainian embroidery will be present there, embroidery is rather ideological. that is, we decided that the clothes are now . look how many designers there are and everyone has access to the picture. that is, you did not have time to release the chinese already after you sewed a billion things there. that is, everything is flowing very quickly and so that your clothes are not thrown away right away, well, again, this is the theme of this so-called

now very fashionable system, which was fashion. so when fashion thinks, why do we decide to make such things that will simply be lifted by hand and then thrown away , because they will have embroidery . there is an idea and we will now promote it in europe and abroad as well, but for me, embroidery is also a principle. again , my grandmother put it in my head that they must be different for everyone, yes, you can buy, for example, embroidery which has for example, there and in this way, with bundles of different ornaments, plus or minus similar, you can just have this dress to go there or to the beach or to go out somewhere nice in the summer, but you still have to have such an embroidered dress that you are guaranteed to be 100% accurate, you know that no matter where you go in your life, you will never go the same way. this is my concept. my grandmother once told such famous stories because she drew very beautifully and invented all these drawings

herself. so she says that she did not give anyone to feel her role models, but also her friends, when she was standing there in the church praying, they were standing behind her from the side, quickly, quickly, they were drawing something there , they were writing off some colors , that's it, that's what i had the idea that everyone should have the right to have on a vyshyvanka, which is definitely not in who will not be identical, well, similar of course, they echo somewhere because, after all, one designer does it. now we, uh , again, so that i am not blamed by all the envious other designers out there who say that caravan embroidered the car we not only do embroidery with a strong rash, actually it is again a machine. embroidery is what it sounds like. well, we didn’t sit with a needle, we didn’t sew , but its development is manual development. a person sits, draws sketches, creates this project, then draws each stitch, then everything is laid out in the program. that is, this there is a lot of work, in fact, it seems that the machine

sat there and in three days it was on the pods . and all the more, time moves so quickly . a personal drawing is designed for this person completely for this person and it is already hand-embroidered, and therefore you work hard with it . i have already developed such a principle, and i ask so many questions to the client that he starts to get lost, i say and do as you know, well, of course, would we agree on the quality of the canvas, the colors, i agree on such things, of course, but actually about the symbols about the drawing well, for sure, for sure, just because of the mood of each person, i looked at her. yes, ksenia starts working . she draws sketches , we compare something there, then we choose colors, and then the work of the embroiderer begins. i can’t yet

, now we will get to of the finals, yes, but i can't help but ask, did you mention, let's say, vyshyvanka for the beach or vyshyvanka for every day, yes, from my childhood, i remember that we had 3,000 vyshyvanka - it's only for a holiday, that is, god forbid it comes on weekdays we all share in embroidery with delicate vyshyvankas just like in everyday clothes that's all and how now, that is, do we now have the right to wear vyshyvankas for every day and match them with clothes and still, vyshyvankas it must be something for a holiday eh look there is a festive vyshyvanka and what is couture? and there will be a vyshyvanka and if it is simply beautiful, red why not walk in it of course we have the right, we don't just have the right, we are obliged to wear it so that everyone can see how beautiful it is and we are talking to you now we talk to you about the designers about the creation process but i want to ask more about those who choose these embroidered shirts. yes, about the buyers, how at the beginning of the full-scale invasion, they changed, how

their tastes changed, and how a person chooses a vyshyvanka for himself now, uh, they have not changed, they just all wanted to embroider because well if you order ordinary clothes in the same way, not everyone will raise their hand because, well, it's probably not in time, because there is nowhere to go, after all, vysyvanka is such a business that can wait until victory. it's a long process, and that's why i actually have a simple the number of orders for vyshyvankas has increased very much, but who chooses whom here is still a question. as it turned out in my great experience , for 7 years, even 8 years , we throw away the quarantine, so the vyshyvanka chooses her client, for example, there is a very beautiful vyshyvanka that everyone likes madly and she has been for three years it might not sell and i'm already in a panic , thinking, god, what did i do wrong, everyone measures and everyone wants, and then they choose something else, and then suddenly someone comes, well,

a random buyer there and says, or it seems like i'm measuring and i won't measure it, it won't fit me and i look like this and say well, please measure it and then suddenly it turns out that the embroiderer has found her buyer, it's beautiful , but i even have stories like that, but well, not always , of course, but quite often, which turned out to be a during a certain large-scale invasion, designer clothes, uh, uh, uh, especially ukrainian designers, did the weight and heftiness of this purchase increase, and do people switch to more because there is nowhere to go for more intellectual things, well, look at me , vyshyvanka if she had her calculated the price depends on how much platinum is in it and how much work of the artist is invested in it and the embroiderer, therefore, the price does not change according to the effect. it was what it was and remains. well , this is my answer. the actual question is no longer about price . well, of course it is valuable because it can quietly hang in the closet and wait there to be handed over as an inheritance or

to be exchanged for a loaf of bread, yes, i am , that's how we are sometimes. we joke about some expensive purchases. i thank you very much. i am very happy. i remind you that today we talked with oksana karavanska, a ukrainian designer, we talked about ukrainian embroidery, about saving ukrainian embroidery , how to work with it, how to choose it, buy it, and whether it is possible to wear embroidery everyday . sofia chilyak was with you before meetings, time for each of us, protect our own, there are no words, there are no songs for us to praise you, a hero, that on a difficult , bloody day of despair, you did not lay down your arms, you

bravely went into battle, even though the enemy was terrible harsh has never been the youth before the stronger word of obedience 105th anniversary of the battle of kruty our strength in unity we support the armed forces of ukraine we will donate a volunteer we fight for our seven more than a million ukrainians need housing you have the opportunity to accept refugees from the combat zone i leave an ad on the website of the shelter

victory is one on shelter all yours like a ray under the palm of a child, the light in ukraine does not disappear, it hides in small and large boxes in endless webs and in hiding places with character because the light chooses places from where it does not want to go. then those who are sad in the dark come to it. the light knows how to be friends with the best , only it does not