american public television presents the splendors of the world in the life-like reality of high-definition television. hi, i'm rudy maxa. what could be more enticing than whiling away the day on a sun-drenched beach surrounded by sapphire waters? or sipping a glass of retsina in front of a glorious sunset? stay with us because we're headed to the greek islands, next smart travels. smart travels is made possible in part by expedia.com, a travel web site that offers travelers a variety of ways to find the trip they're looking for, including flights, hotels, and vacation packages. captioning made possible by u.s. department of education

smart travels is a grand tour of the old world: the people, places, sites, and distinctly european flavors. our host is travel writer and columnist rudy maxa, public radio's original savvy traveler. now tips, trips, and secret places on smart travels.

maxa: everything in the greek islands sings of the sea. from wind-buffed fishermen pulling in a day's catch, to cubic whitewashed villages capped by domes of bright blue; from laundry flapping in a salty breeze, to rows of octopus drying in the sun. here, the deep aegean is the source of life. for countless centuries, these restive waters have carried trading vessels and fleets of war ships. they witnessed odysseus sailing off to the trojan war, and saw jason piloting the argos in search of the golden fleece. and today they offer the intrepid traveler an experience like no other. there are more than 1,400 islands in greece.

so when planning a visit to the greek islands, how do you choose from this bounty? well, that depends on just how much time you have and what your interests are. is climbing through ancient ruins your thing? are you looking for the hottest nightlife? would you prefer letting the hours slip away on some secluded beach? for this trip, we wanted islands that were easily accessible, stunningly beautiful, had lots of interesting sightseeing, and at least a few unspoiled out-of-the-way spots. too much to ask for, you say? well, the cyclades in the central aegean are up to the task. we'll begin on stunning santorini, then head to naxos, the largest of the cyclades. we'll make a quick stop in mykonos, and finally explore the splendid ruins of delos. our dramatic opener is santorini. the plummeting cliffs forged by volcanic eruptions

take your breath away. sheer rock faces loom hundreds of feet above the aegean. the red, gray, and black pumice layering the cliff face distinguish it from every other island in greece. from below the island's capital of fira, you can climb the nearly 600 steps, or ride the little cable car into town. you can guess which choice i made. a cluster of rambling white buildings, fira is the center of activity on the island. though tourists pummel it during high season, nothing can destroy the charm of its cobbled streets and the spectacular view of the harbor. according to legend, the harbor is a bottomless abyss leading to the door between heaven and hell. the influence of tourism varies from island to island.

the main towns on popular islands tend to be hugely overcrowded during the height of summer, which is july and august. but if you visit just before or after high season, you can usually escape the hordes. and by the way, english is widely spoken. i'm sorry, i can't speak english. but in the summertime, i'm going to speak, when i learn some words. maxa: from the scores of hotels in downtown fira, we've chosen the kavalari. the hotel's rooms are built directly into the cliff. originally a captain's house, it's been updated with every convenience a vacationer might need. the rooms have a cozy cave-like feel, and the colorful local rugs and bedcovers are brilliant against the whitewashed walls. best of all, the hotel has spectacular views of the center of the island's volcano. santorini was once a circular island.

what remains is the exposed rim of a giant, still-active volcano. an ancient eruption left a crust of volcanic ash stretching over the hollow center of the island. when the crust caved in, water filled the resulting basin that is now santorini's harbor. historians believe that the volcano may have caused the collapse of the minoans, a powerful bronze age civilization that flourished in the aegean some 4,000 years ago. the theory is that the eruption not only buried a minoan settlement here on santorini, but also triggered a tidal wave large enough to destroy the heart of that great civilization on nearby crete. you can get a sense of the sophistication of the minoans at the island's archaeological museum. the minoans took their name from mighty king minos, who, legend holds, kept the minotaur, a monster that was half man and half bull,

in a maze called a labyrinth. minoan society was based on agriculture and trade. they were skilled artists, and made colorful jewelry and fine pottery. they also developed an early decimal system. each minoan house had at least one room decorated with murals, some of which were among the most magnificent in greece. some believe that santorini is the lost continent of atlantis spoken of by plato. according to the legend, angry gods punished atlantis's overly-proud people by sinking the great continent in a single day. but what was catastrophic for the minoans turned out to be a boon for today's visitors, who come from far and wide to see this stunning landscape. santorini is a small island,

and you can easily see the sights on the local bus or by taxi. the volcanic soil is very fertile, and every available space is terraced and cultivated with grapes, tomatoes, and pistachios, still planted and harvested by hand. to delve even deeper into the world of the minoans, head to the ancient city of akrotiri. thanks to the island's volcano, this is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in all the greek islands. the amazing artifacts and frescos that we saw in the archaeological museum were excavated from here. sophisticated and beautiful, the frescos show scenes from daily life 3,500 years ago, like this one of two children boxing.

akrotiri was a prosperous settlement in the minoan civilization. it had paved streets lined with houses, each connected by a sophisticated drainage system. when the volcano erupted, in about 1500 b.c., the city was covered beneath a thick blanket of pumice and ash. like the town of pompeii in italy centuries later, the structures below were suspended in time. the island's volcano has left another gift: santorini's famous black beaches. these long black stretches of sand and pebbles delight tourists who come to swelter in the scorching sun. the beaches get blistering hot in the afternoon, so you'll definitely need shoes or sandals, as well as a mat to sit on. while the popular beaches of perissa and kamari

get very crowded in the summer, if you head further north, you can find blissful seclusion. a short drive to the northwestern tip of the island brings us to oia, a little town that hangs precariously off the cliff side. oia was once a major fishing port of the aegean. a 1956 earthquake leveled this town, and the residents subsequently carved out new dwellings in the cliffs, on top of the ruins of the old houses. today the town's narrow cobblestone streets make for great shopping. you can treat yourself to fine jewelry, or browse the craft and embroidery shops. top off the day with an unhurried dinner. there's nothing quite like a greek salad: fresh plump tomatoes, cucumbers, and salty feta cheese made from goat's milk. and finally, sip a glass of ouzo while surrendering to oia's most famous sight: a breathtaking sunset.

ready for some island hopping? naxos is about a 2 1/2 hour ferry ride away. ferry information is notoriously unreliable on the islands, so you should try to leave yourself extra time if you have tight connections, and then double- and triple-check your departure details. at about 280 square miles, naxos is the largest of the cyclades, and some visitors also consider it the most beautiful. like a colossal doorframe, the entrance to the never-completed temple of apollo greets you. the temple, which dates back to the sixth century b.c.,

was started at the order of an early greek tyrant. but when the tyrant fell from power, the project was left unfinished. the ferry drops you in naxos town, a pretty port on the west coast of the island. it has enough tourism to provide the basic comforts, but not so much as to destroy the island's character. this lively harbor town has plenty of restaurants, cafes, clubs, and shops to keep most vacationers entertained. you'll find food and accommodations at reasonable prices, and some of the most delicious wines and cheeses in greece. hello. what kind of wine do you have? nice. i think i'll do the white. maxa: naxos has long had a love affair with wine. mythology holds that it was dionysus, the god of wine and fertility, who taught the islanders their winemaking skills.

in ancient times, the island was a center of dionysian worship. in return, the great wine god endowed naxos with its lush valleys and fertile fields. while all of the cycladic islands share a legacy of natural beauty, naxos stands out for its rich farmland. thanks to a flourishing agricultural base, it's been able to bypass the tourist market to a c the center of the island is a verdant expanse of fruit and olive trees. olives are the main agricultural product here. according to legend, the goddess athena created the olive. the gods of olympus proclaimed that the city of athens would be named for the god who could invent the most valuable legacy for mortals. athena's olive, a symbol of peace and prosperity, beat out poseidon's offering of a horse, that symbolized the more war-like skills of strength and fortitude.

as you travel the main road, you'll catch occasional glimpses of old venetian towers. these are remnants from the middle ages, when the powerful venetians established a foothold in greece, and went on to become the wealthiest traders in the mediterranean. the venetians ruled here for more than 3 centuries before being overthrown by the ottomans. the road winds to apiranthos, perhaps the most picturesque village on the island. the poet lord byron was so infatuated with this town that he once declared he wanted to die here. byron didn't quite get his wish, though he did die on the greek mainland. the name "apiranthos" means infinite flowers. off the beaten tourist track, this little community charms with its pretty streets and friendly residents.

[speaking greek] many of the locals are descended from refugees who fled crete to escape turkish repression. the town prospered thanks to the nearby emery mines and marble quarries. in fact, all the town streets are paved in marble. like other naxians, the people here have reveled in winemaking for thousands of years. one local explains how the ancients were able to draw wine from these huge wine jugs. well, this very strange thing that you see, look how strange it is. my god, eh? well, you put, how you say, tube, and from here... and wine is coming inside here, and then you serve.

[speaking greek] maxa: many houses in apiranthos are more than 300 years old. this long-time native lives in a restored venetian fortress that's open as a museum several hours a day. when the venetians conquered the cyclades in the 13th century, they made naxos the center of their aegean empire. they built castles like this throughout the island. because apiranthos is relatively isolated in the middle of the island, traditions here have remained strong. though she didn't speak any english, this woman invited us to her home to see the fabrics she weaves by hand. the women of naxos are famous for their weaving, though the practice is gradually dying out. it was athena, that multitalented goddess, who is credited with teaching the greeks how to weave.

these days little out-of-the-way gems likes apiranthos have become harder and harder to find, but discovering one can make your trip truly memorable. [bells ringing] the hills outside the town of moni shelter one of the oldest churches in southern europe. panagia drossiani dates to the 5th century, and was constructed of stones gathered from nearby fields. christianity came early to the islands, brought here by the apostle john. it still plays an important role in daily life. nearly every town has a patron saint that is its special protector. priests are often called upon to bless newly-planted fields and business openings. for centuries, naxos had a well-earned reputation for its exquisite marble. by the 7th century b.c., marble quarries were in full swing, and the beautiful stone was being sculpted for export far and wide. abandoned in a garden near one of the quarries,

you can still see an example of an unfinished kouros: the style of sculpture that was so popular in archaic times. the slim, idealized figure of the kouros youth was influenced by egyptian works. when finished, as seen here in athens' archaeological museum, these smiling figures, posed with one leg forward, were among the earliest freestanding human images. kouros statues formed the basis for classical greek sculpture, which, centuries later, would transform western art. a string of beaches rims the coast south of naxos town. unlike the sizzling black beaches of santorini, the beaches here are soft and sandy. and there are enough beaches that tourists can spread out. naxos is so lovely and serene that it would be easy to linger for weeks. but the siren song of the blue aegean beckons us,

so we're off for more island hopping. we're stopping briefly on mykonos to make a connection to the tiny island of delos. it's also possible to make a day trip to delos directly from naxos. mykonos is a playground of jet-setters, upscale bars, and golden sand, all surrounded by the sparkling sea. one of the smallest of the cyclades, mykonos is a favorite of tourists. it's crowded and expensive during high season. the harbor shelters cruise ships as well as yachts that make the island a regular stop. there's good reason for its popularity: it's a gorgeous island with a charming capital city. you'll be struck by the cubical white houses and the narrow maze-like streets. the streets were designed to disorient pirates, who in ancient times prowled the heavily-traded waters around mykonos.

tourists today do all the plundering: snacking in bakeries, cruising trendy shops, and looking for the hottest club. but traditional mykonos is still to be found, in the windmills that were once used to grind the island's grain, and the men on donkeys selling fresh pistachios. can i buy a bag? of course, yes. maxa: there are plenty of accommodations on mykonos, though reservations are a must during high season. our home base is the mykonos view, a family-run hotel with a great pool and curving stonework designed to blend in with the island landscape. it has comfortable, spacious rooms and fully-equipped kitchens. and one especially traditional touch: this small chapel built into the hillside

and dedicated to the owner's mother. mykonos is a classic resort island. this is a place where you can lounge away the day, soak in the sunset, and immerse yourself in nightlife. when you've had your fill of lounging, head to delos. sacred and desolate, nearby delos couldn't be more different than bubbling mykonos. it's just a 40-minute boat ride and a world away. the smallest of the cycladic islands, delos is one of the most famous. the whole island is a vast archaeological site. and even those with little interest in history can't help but be captivated by this trip back in time. for nearly a century, this island sanctuary was the political and religious center of the aegean.

the ancients considered it a sacred place because, according to legend, it was here that the god apollo was born. delos had been inhabited for many centuries, but reached the height of its power during hellenistic times, when ancient greek culture dominated the mediterranean. tiny delos, surrounded by other islands, provided the safest harbor for ships sailing between the mainland and the near east. the greeks saw the other islands in this part of the aegean as spiraling out around the holy island of delos, forming a cyclical pattern. and that's how they came to be called the "cyclades." at its peak, delos was the banking center of the aegean, crowded with merchants alongside the many temples.

the ancients traveled here to the sanctuary to make sacrificial offerings to appease the gods. there were 3 temples dedicated to apollo, the great sun god, and one to artemis, the goddess of the hunt. the theater once held 5,500 people. you can roam the ruins of several private houses, including the house of trident, which contains a wonderful mosaic from the 2nd century b.c. the beautifully restored house of dionysus holds a mosaic of the god of wine riding a leopard.

the houses drew their water from this nearby arched reservoir. the terrace of lions is one of the most photographed sites in greece. the 5 lions, silently roaring, ready to pounce, were carved of marble from naxos in about 600 b.c. the lions guarded the most sacred part of the island, the place where the sun god was born. this palm tree marks the traditional spot of apollo's birth. legend holds that leto, one of zeus's lovers, was holding onto a palm tree when she gave birth to twin babies, artemis and apollo. in 1990, unesco designated delos a world heritage site. there are no hotels here: it's strictly a day visit from other islands. centuries ago, it was declared illegal for anyone to be born or to die on delos.

except for archeologists, most of whom leave the island in the winter, it remains a solitary refuge. there's a clarity about the greek islands-- the simple white houses, the dazzling sunlight, the timeless ruins-- that brings the world into focus, and makes us instinctively want to connect to our own history. lord byron wrote about them. "the isles of greece! the isles of greece!

"where burning sappho loved and sung, "where grew the arts of war and peace, where delos rose, and phoebus sprung!" these rocky windswept islands encircled by the blue aegean have witnessed so much life, so much human drama. with roots that seem to extend to the beginning of time, they can only leave us with a deep sense of eternity. all videos and dvds of smart travels are $24.95 each, plus shipping. call 800-866-7425 for the two-episode dvd or video on athens, delphi, and the greek islands. details of all of our travel videos, dvds, and best guide books are on the web at smarttravels.tv. please have a credit card ready and call 800-866-7425 or visit us on the web.

smart travels is made possible in part by expedia.com, a travel web site that offers travelers a variety of ways to find the trip they're looking for, including flights, hotels, and vacation packages. captioning made possible by u.s. department of education captioned by the national captioning institute --www.ncicap.org--