>> funding for this program is provided by subaru. >> funding for this program is female announcer: at subaru, we build vehicles like the rugged outback, with symmetrical all-wheel drive standard and plenty of cargo space for those who pack even more adventure into life. subaru, a proud sponsor of "globe trekker." ♪ captioning made possible by u.s. department of education >> a millennium of struggle for self-determination has forged a hardy people and a vibrant

culture. with its untamed highlands, and windswept islands, spectacular lochs and glens, intriguing cities, and amazing hospitality, it is scotland. ah! ♪ scotland is in the north of great britain, and has a land and culture that is completely distinct from england. my journey begins in the city of glasgow and historic stirling. from there, i head to the island of isla, and make my way up the west coat to the isle of skye. i cross the highlands to loch ness and strathdon, and fly on to the orkney islands. then, it's down to edinburgh with a quick round of golf at saint andrew's, before taking in the madness of the edinburgh festival. ♪

glasgow is scotland's largest city. it's infamous for housing schemes like easter house, goven, and the gorbals. but, since being crowned the european city of culture in 1990, glasgow is enjoying a cultural renaissance. my first stop, the exquisite arthouse hotel. thank you very much. third floor, right? wow. will you look at this? so cool! so expensive, but i decided to

splurge. i know i'm just starting, but this place really captures kind of that glasgow vibe. i mean, look, a wall of water. wow. wow, look at this. this is nice. oh, i could get used to this place. but, then i'd have a very short trip. i love it. ♪ glasgow boasts excellent museums and art galleries. some of which are dedicated to famous scots, like charles rennie mackintosh. mackintosh is scotland's most celebrated architect and designer. in the late 19th century, he designed every detail of his own house, from the façade, to the furniture, to the smallest clock.

this is a recreation of mackintosh's home built within the walls of the hunterian art gallery. the scottish accent is famous for being difficult to understand. but, the glaswegian accent can be even more difficult. there are words and phrases in glasgow that sound a bit like a foreign language, even. so, i'm on a mission to find some people to help me translate. okay. so, i love the glaswegian accent. and, i was wondering if you could teach me some local phrases. >> well, it's very hard to, -- >> hmm? >> you understand? >> sometimes, i might say, if they're having a disagreement or an argument, they'll say that, uh, they had a right [ indistinct ] >> gadgie? >> gadgie. >> gadgie. >> who's a gadgie? [ laugh ]

>> a gadgie. >> a tramp. >> a tramp. >> [ indistinct ] ♪ >> glasgow is, very sadly, the heart attack capital of europe. now, one reason to blame could possibly be the chippy, which is basically a fish and chips shop. chips meaning french fries. but, they tend to get a little carried away, and deep fry about everything. pizza, hello. >> good morning, how can i -- >> well, what's the most unique thing that you fry? >> we have a deep-fried mars bar. that's a candy bar. >> yes. usually served with tomato sauce. >> what? tomato sauce. okay. i would like to try that. >> you'd like one? why not?

>> could you fry a mars bar for this young lady? >> all right. >> why the ketchup? why do they put ketchup on it? >> i think that's a young sort of idea, that they like ketchup with everything. >> who came up with this idea? >> well, we've had a few people ask for it. and, they tend to be from the east coast of scotland. so, we think originally it came from aberdeen. and, it was originally asked by an oil worker, coming from maybe his work in the arab countries. so it may come from, originally through, from kuwait or bahrain. >> do you think in kuwait they're deep-frying mars bars? >> i think they're deep-frying some sort of chocolate. >> oh, and it came from the idea. >> that's right, okay hmm, hmm. okay, this is it. ketchup and all. hmm. >> it's very tasty. >> it's very strange. the whole idea of deep-frying a candy bar, let alone putting ketchup on it. but, it's actually good.

and it's just too overwhelming for my taste buds, i think. hmm. once in a lifetime. ♪ you don't have to be on a wind-swept moor to learn to play the bagpipes. this is the centre of glasgow, the college of piping, and i'm gonna learn to play them today. ♪ yea, willie. i love that. do you think you can teach me to do that in about an hour and a half? >> we'll be happy to try. >> all right. where do we start? >> we start right here. scottish bagpipes are unique. the origin, i would think, would

be in the countryside where young herd boys were sent out to look after his master's sheep and goats. and first, it would be a hot, sunny day, and he would go, and he would pick up a stick, hollow out the middle, and make some holes and add a whistle . he was a happy man. he was playing his country's tune. but, eventually, they realized that they had to stop, to breath, so the music stopped too. >> and sometimes, there would be a sheep lying dead, and they would suddenly realize that if they stuck the pipe into the sheep's stomach, they would have a reservoir of air. and that's not very hygienic, but eventually they cleaned things up. and eventually, that's where bagpipes came from. [ indistinct ] now, come on. bash the bag, give it a thump. [ noise ] keep going. better keep blowing. keep blowing. now, eventually --

[ noise ] okay. come on. right. stop. not quite. let's try it. let's cheat, shall we? >> yes, we shall. >> right. okay, i'll tell you what i'll -- i'll blow. all right. >> okay. >> and you will play the chanter. >> okay. ♪ >> kind of did a popping thing. oh. not bad. >> you did very well, did -- >> well, that's 'cause you've got all air action going on. >> well. you are dressed the right way. >> okay. can i ask you also? okay, i'm new around here. >> and i've heard --

i'm curious what do people wear underneath their kilts? men? >> what have you heard? >> nothing. >> you have? >> no, i've heard something. i've heard they wear nothing. >> well, you've just got to believe what you wish to believe. >> you're not even gonna give me the truth, are you? okay. ♪ scotland has always had a complex relationship with england, known as the old enemy. before unification in 1707, the scots fought valiantly against the english invaders. scotland's national hero is william wallace, who led successful guerrilla campaigns against the english in the late 13th century, before his eventual betrayal. stirling is the site of one of william wallace's most famous victories. the story of william wallace became famous throughout the world, after a book and movie called "braveheart" came out. now, the movie starring mel

gibson, spawned legions of fans, and actually tonight, here at stirling castle, there's a braveheart banquet. you must be shoris wallace. >> correct. >> hi, i'm megan. >> how ya doing? >> i came to see about trying on a tartan. >> right, okay then. just relax. >> okay. >> now that you almost got your procession with the kilt. but because you're a female -- i need to lift you a wee bit -- can i come across you? >> yes. i'll lift you, and just go back a wee bit. there you go. gently. >> there you go. >> i didn't look up your kilt, by the way. >> [ laugh ] right. don't forget to lift your arms up. what we're gonna do is puts something across you. there you go. you comfy? the next thing is what you call the fixing belt. >> [ giggle ] i'm ticklish. i'm sorry. >> and this goes a wee bit higher, because you're a slim female.

>> well, yes. >> i'll pull you up. >> oh, shoot. oh, did i ruin it? >> no. >> it's all right, okay. right. viola. this is -- i'm ready for battle. >> well, you're ready for -- >> well, the women at the banquet actually wear something a little more fanciful. don't they? >> mm hmmm. >> all right. well, i loved this experience, and next time i go to war, i'll definitely wear a wallace tartan. are you allowed to wear it if you're not of the wallace clan? >> if you've got the passion. >> i've got the passion. >> well, then, it's okay, then, you being allowed. i'd be proud that you'd wear it. >> thank you. it's the night of the braveheart banquet, and it's time for me to try scotland's most famous national dish, haggis. haggis meets [ indistinct ] heard a lot about this, but i have been kind of hesitant to try it. hmm. oh, it's really very good. once you get past the idea that

it's the, well, the lining of a sheep stomach with, you know, heart and lung, and all of those organs in it, it's actually really, really good. ♪ [ chanting ] >> wallace, wallace! wallace, wallace! wallace, wallace! >> the scots love their history. this is a reenacting group, who loves to put on battles that happened in the days of william wallace himself. >> for god, king, and england!

[ yelling ] [ chanting ] >> wallace! wallace, wallace! wallace, wallace! >> man in the middle represents william wallace. man, does he have temper. the reenactment group, fire and sword, regularly stage battles from the days of william wallace, when the fighting was blood thirsty and gory. [ yelling ] >> freedom! ♪ >> it is william wallace's birthday today. all of these people have come here to honor his memory; 800 years later, they still hold him as one of their strongest national figures. in 1305, william wallace was

betrayed, and tried for treason, in london, where he was hung, cut into four, and his remains strewn over britain. today, wallace is the figurehead for scottish independence. >> freedom! ♪ >> i want to explore the islands. first stop, isla, the southern tip of the inner hebrides. then it's back to the mainland, to the mountains of oban. islay feels isolated in comparison to other islands like skye, and receives few visitors. fifty percent of the island is gaelic-speaking, and it's main industry is whisky. scotland's national drink dates back to around the 15th century. in gaelic they call it uisge-beatha, which means water

of life. i am talking about whisky. now, isla is famous for it's own variety, which is a little bit peaty and more smoky. today, i'm at ardbeg. and i'm gonna meet stuart, who's the manager of the distillery here. it's one of the best in all of scotland. >> hi, megan, pleased to meet you. i'm stuart. >> nice to meet you, stewart. >> like to take you around the distillery, and i'll show you how we make some whisky. >> whisky me away. ♪ scottish whisky's distinctive taste comes from malted barley. the barley is soaked and dried in a kiln over a peat fire, mixed with water, and then left to ferment. the wheat alcoholic solution, or wort, is then distilled, and matured in oak barrels for three to 30 years. this process hasn't changed in hundreds of years. how many caskets are in this place, this building? >> about four and a half thousand. >> four and a half thousand. and, how many buildings like this do you have? >> we have five. this is 1975. ardbeg.

you should find it very smoky. very fruity and very sweet. >> excellent. >> slainte mhath. >> slainte mhat, what's that? >> that means cheers. >> in gaelic. >> slainte mhath, then. >> enjoy. ♪ >> isla is an island full of stories of ghosts and fairies. but, i actually get to meet a living legend, fiona of the seals. fiona middleton came to isla in 1976, and is known all over the island for playing her violin to the seal population. >> when i first came to isla, it was winter, and it was very calm and peaceful. i took my violin, and then found a nice place and some rocks by the sea, and started playing

violin. i suddenly realized, that there were two little faces watching me from the sea, with big eyes and whiskers. >> have you come to know certain ones more than others? >> they tend to have their favorite places, and their favorite rocks to sit on. so, if i go to a particular place, i would expect to see certain seals time and time again. [ violin music ]

>> from isla, my journey continues to the west coast of the mainland, to oban and the mountains. scotland doesn't exactly have

anything quite like mount everest, but, they do have something unique to themselves called a munro, which were name by sir hugh munro in 1891 to classify any mountain that's 3,000 feet or higher. now, scotland has 284 of them, and there's some people who are fanatical about walking and climbing them. charlie has climbed them all, which makes him a munro bagger, and i hope to bag my first one today. hello. >> hi. >> charlie, how old were you when you bagged your first munro? >> i think i was 10 the time. at that time, i didn't know what munro was. i mean, i just thought it was a great hill, and i enjoyed that, and i've always loved scotland and the countryside and so -- >> and, so, how long did it take you to do all 284? >> well, my first time 'round, it was three and a half years. >> so, how long did it take you a second time? >> well, 14 and a half days. >> what? that's amazing. how many a day is that? >> averaging six a day,

two or three, shall we start -- >> this is our, this is it. it's a little wet out here, don't you think? >> hey, come on, this is scotland. what do you expect? >> oh, duh. ♪ what's the name of this munro? >> this one we're climbing today is beinn tulaichean, the biggest hill in this sort of campbell area, here. >> so, this is the campbell area? >> yeah. >> which is your last name. >> yeah. >> this is like a homecoming. this is your turf. ♪ we've hiked all day. i know, i thought it was gonna be much easier than this. >> no. no, it's gone well, though. >> whoo hoo. >> keep it going. that's it, we're all done. >> whoo hoo. this is the moment of the munro bagging. charlie! >> absolutely, cool.

>> yeah. >> i bagged my first munro. >> well done. >> thank you. >> so, how does it feel? >> it feels kind of cold, kind of wet, kind of tiring. but still exhilarating. kind of like a unique scottish experience. >> the question is, are you gonna do that again? >> let me tell you, your record is-but you know what? >> what? >> you'll hike all this way, and we get this view. >> perfect, isn't it? >> beautiful. >> this can be a good scottish summer. ♪ >> i am so excited about this journey. first of all, i love trains. but, this is supposed to be one of the best train journeys in the world. it's called the west highland railway. cost about 21 pounds, which is around $35 for two short hours on the train, but it is gonna be magnificent. [ train whistle ] ♪

the west highland railway runs from glasgow, via fort william, to mallaig, where i take a ferry to the isle of skye. it is a fantastic way to see the highlands, and the scenery is truly spectacular. skye is a rugged island known for its castle, mountains, and changeable weather. it's said you can experience four seasons in one day here. scotland is extremely famous for its seafood. and, today, i'm going out with a man named neil mccray, who actually pulls mussels off of

the pillars of the skye bridge, and then we cook them on his boat for lunch. hello. i'm sorry, i'm late. >> hi, megan. >> how are you? >> very well, thank you. neil mccray is a fisherman who takes tourists out on his boat, for the freshest mussels on the island. >> okay. the tide's coming in. so, the plan is just to -- >> just reach in normally and grab them. >> yes, yeah, as low down as possible because -- >> they're fresher. they're still in the water. >> they're longer in the water, so they're bigger. well, i might fall in. >> [ laugh ] got you. great. unbelievable. oh, i've got it, got it. i got it. >> and we'll get some more. >> lunch. this in a restaurant in the states would cost you 12 buck 95, at least. >> you go this time. >> all right, i'm ready. >> now, just don't cut your hands between the bridge and the board.

>> i'm a little nervous about this. >> here, i'll hold your leg. >> [ laugh ] i missed it. over there, over there. come on. >> you got it? >> wait. come here. >> get down deeper. >> i can't get them. >> yes, you can. yes, you can. >> oh, wait, i got them. >> get up. up, up, up. >> shoot. shoot. okay. [ laugh ] great. i got it. i almost went overboard. i hope you all appreciate this. well, i love scotland. i love the legends, and the landscapes, and the history, and i love the castles. and, you know, every castle has its own story. and this one has kind of a very unique one. ♪ once upon a time, here at castle moyle, there lived a young norwegian princess named mary.

mary made a chain of boats, from one side of the channel to the other, in order to be able to charge a toll of any passing ships. she greatly appreciated the contribution of the sailors, and would actually, well, thank them by flashing her breasts as they passed by. she then became known as saucy mary, and it is actually a tradition for women who visit the castle to kind of honor mary's tradition, so, here's my saucy megan. whoo! ♪ if you're not in a hurry, and you can kind of have flexibility in your schedule, a great way to get around the rural parts of scotland is with the postman. you can hop on. you can hop off the bus. for about half an hour, it costs

around $3, and it's great. you have to be patient, 'cause you he has to make all his regular stops, and pick up school kids, and drop them off. but, you really get a sense of life on the island. which is - [ motor ] hi. how are you? hello. >> hi. hello, hello. >> how are you, sir? >> not bad. ga'blimey, thought i'd missed ya, mate. >> nigel, i still owe my fare, which two pound 20, right? >> yeah. >> okay, thank you. >> thank you very much. >> do you live here? right back there. is this how you get around the island? >> well, i got our own car. but the wife uses it. >> yeah. your wife gets the car. you got to take the bus. >> [ indistinct ] and the same with your driver there, am i right, nigel? >> is that the same with you? >> the only time we get the car is when there's something wrong with it. ♪

>> this is loch dunvegan, and up until 1748, the only way you can get here to dunvegan castle was by boat. this is the oldest inhabited castle in britain, and mccloud clan have lived here for 700 years. ♪ one of the ancestors of the

mccloud clan, malcolm iii, one time wrestled and killed a bull with his bare hands. the bull's now the symbol for the clan. and this is sir rory moore's horn, which is filled with claret, which is wine, and each chief-to-be at the age of 21 must drink the entire thing, without dropping it or spilling any of it, and the present chief holds the record of one minute and 57 seconds. he is definitely a worthy man. ♪ from skye, i head over the highlands to the historic battlefield of culloden, before investigating the mystery of loch ness. it's then on to strathdon for the highland games. ♪ there are many, many tour companies that arrange bus trips

all around scotland. but, i'm going on one that is really unique and really cool. remember ozzy osborne and the infamous rock and roll band black sabbath? [ rock noises ] well, this is their old tour bus. in fact, this kind of was the groupie love shack; now it's the honeymoon suite. oops. sorry about that. there's 15 bunk beds inside, a little kitchenette. it's nice, it's laidback. best way to go. hello. >> hi. ♪ >> the black sabbath tour bus drives all over the highlands, on trips that last between two and six days. it's a unique way to see the country. anything that you would recommend people bring with them when they come? >> warm clothing. >> warm clothing. it rains quite a bit. >> i enjoyed the