on europe, with some of the very best personal stories. i am damien mcginnis and we have a really great show lined up for you today. in the netherlands, a call for the troops in the case of mh seven -- in turkey, camels out for the count. first to the netherlands, where a criminal investigation of an unprecedented scale is being carried out. the find out who shot down

malaysian airlines mh 17 over ukraine last july. the vast majority of those killed were dutch. many of the relatives of those victims have been viewing the wreckage of the aircraft for the first time. the charge remains -- the charred remains have been brought to the netherlands. for the last year fighting has been raging between ukrainian forces on -- ukrainian forces and pro-russian separatists. the facts that relatives still don't know really what happened to makes an already painful situation almost unbearable. >> every morning's alain fredericks goes into her son's room and wishes she could turn back the clock. bryce frederick's lived here with his girlfriend daisy. both of them were on board the ill-fated flight mh 17.

not a thing has been changed since. >> sometimes i sit on the beds. sometimes i smell the clothes. i used to think people were crazy when they did it and now i do it myself. it is a way to survive. reality is too hard. >> bryce and daisy left the house for the last time on the morning of july 17, 2014. the young couple had planned a trip to bali. the flight took off from amsterdam just past noon. two point five flowers later its wreckage was strewn across the landscape in eastern ukraine where ukrainian government troops have been fighting pro-russian separatists.

the relatives quickly heard almost 300 people on board the jet had died. it took weeks before they received shocking proof. >> we got the first identification of christ. it was his right foot, and it was severely burned. that was hard. >> some dutch families learned almost nothing. after months of waiting daisy's cousin and a friend of the fredericks family decided to travel on site on his own. they didn't find out much but what they did learn of hauled him. >> if it is an open field it is farm field. daisy was not identified. i was so afraid she would be

taken by something. >> robbie finally arrived at the site of the disaster. there he found the plane's wreckage sibley piled up seemingly at random. >> this is part of the cockpit. i'm going to see i can find anything. >> his worst fears proved to be well-founded. >> i saw a human remains and that made me very angry. because of the politics we have all the bodies we found and they were just opened in the field and you can see the body parts. >> the wreckage was finally brought to the netherlands in december 5 months after the jet with -- the jet was shot down. >> we have a lot of elements that can help us to prove it. the reconstruction of the

cockpits and the wings that were held together to support our conclusions. >> it seems clear what brought the plane down. according to research by a team of international journalists it was shot down by a surface to air missile. they identified the mobile units that fired the missile with its unique markings. eyewitness testimony and video posted online allow the reporters to reconstruct the path taken by the unit. it was ready for action in ukraine on july 17, 2014. robbie has discovered traces of a missile attack on the wreckage.

>> you will see in the pictures impact holes. you could see the impact was an explosion. >> who brought down the plane? russians, pro-russian separatists or ukrainians? it has become a propaganda war. eva should experts say there only has been a halfhearted attempt at an official investigation. >> i don't imagine the culprits will be caught. but he once these revelations to further agitate political conflict, which is already threatening europe. >> that would be another cruel blow for others who lost loved ones. >> we were in the middle of

things you never knew existed. you never think about having peace for years. then you're in the middle of a big war. your children are more victims. >> a few weeks ago celine fredericks received a package from ukraine. found half a year after the crash. it was a bitter reminder. >> dutch authorities say the investigation is likely to take the rest of the year. all kinds of conspiracy theories about who is responsible continues to spread. rather it is a conscious effort

to muddy the waters. in the end nothing is believed. join the conversation with e on twitter and to let me know what you think about that or any of our stories. the downing of mh 17 was not only a humanitarian calamity, it was a wake-up call to the west about just how dangerous the conflict in ukraine is. other countries are worried the conflict may spread. in particular, the baltic states. it is hard to imagine the kremlin would risk war by a full on invasion. the baltics big -- baltic states spent much of the 20th century under soviet occupation. they are afraid moscow could try to destabilize the region, using the same undercover tactics seen in ukraine and lithuania is

taking the threat extremely seriously. the government has just issued a call to arms by reintroducing the -- reproducing military conscription. -- reintroducing military conscription. >> the clock starts ticking. nato command wants fighter jet pilot to be at a take off within 15 minutes. captain just happy has been training since the beginning of the year. the italian troops are on high alert day in and day out. >> you feel these alarms go off. in a few minutes you are at 30,000 feet. this is something difficult to imagine.

but very hard. >> since joining the alliance in 2004, a number of members have been guarding the airspace over the baltic states. their own military forces did not have the planes to do it. the fighter-bombers intercept unannounced planes that appear on the radar. since the beginning of the crisis in ukraine, the airspace over the baltic republics has been violated more and more by russian jets. 150 incidents at your alone. >> i figured is a very that i

think it is a very big advantage for us. >> now repainted, modernized and beefed up, they take off from a former soviet airport -- air base. 20,000 troops or more were stationed here. potential nato adversaries. the baltic republics were occupied by the soviet union for half a century. after moscow's annexation of crimea, many are worried they could be occupied by the russians. >> i think they are afraid of russia to be a war. >> our independence is very important to us. i was 18 years old in 1991 when russian tanks rolled through the streets and their soldiers attacked people here. back then i thought how at --

how great it would be to be independent and free. now we can achieve that and make our own decisions. >> i am bored with that. >> the captain says lithuanians have learned from history. she grew up located in the north not far from the border. it is the fourth-largest city in the country. >> i could tell you i was the first generation of free lithuania and kid decided to go to the school. i could never even imagine they would be here in my country. almost 11 years to secure the space.

>> what extent would you say our events a concern in the ukraine? >> for me? >> a confident statement in a time of great uncertainty. lithuania small army fuse russia with more distressed than ever. the government has decided to reintroduce the draft. 25 years after the dissolution of the soviet union attentions are once again high in the baltic republics. this time they are members of nato. >> now to britain were a venerable tradition is under threat. a serious matter in a country where going down to the local for a quick plant is as much part of the nature -- the

nation's cultural identity as shakespeare. i'm sure spent -- i'm sure brits spend more time in the pub the naked in the theater. all that could be changing. tens of thousands of pubs have closed in the past few decades. one thing is clear. some british public regulars are determined to make sure last orders won't be called just yet. >> this is the story of alex, who lost so much. , of tina who wants to fight, and of a whole village that can laugh again. you can still sense it, the swan had sold before it was closed down. alex felt at home here. it's where he met friends, drowned his troubles, and even proposed to his future wife.

>> there were people outside trunking and chatting. now the street is quite dead. these houses are quite small. this is a kind of extension of people's living rooms. it was a social hub really. >> alex looks through the door for traces of the past. he says investors are likely to turn the pub into apartments. >> it is a sad place now full of old letters and memories. nothing else. >> cranes, construction sites, big business. investors battle for every square meter. london real estate is among the most expensive in the world. the old gives way to the new and more are being bought up. one recently sold for over 35 million euros. close to the welsh border.

the demise of english pubs is not limited to london. we have come here to meet up with mark. he's a campaigner for real ale and the pubs that serve it. anti-pubs make them sad and angry. he says 29 pubs disappear every week in the u.k.. victims of alcohol tax, a ban on smoking, and now greedy developers. >> the pub is a microcosm of british society. that is why we have to fight to keep it going. if we lose pubs we lose england. >> tina is a real character and her pub is doing well. my pub is my hub, is her model. for many regulars it is a home away from home. now property developers want to build a co-op supermarket where the pub stands.

>> the co-op is not renowned for their funeral services. >> locals are determined the company will not bury their pub. and they have turned out in strength tonight. >> each and every one of you. if you don't make a noise now he will not get another opportunity. tonight is very important. let's make it count. >> final orders after more than 70 years? unthinkable. mark has trumped up some important supporters. jesse norman is also on board. he has joined the ranks of parliamentarians who back a new law to prevent pubs from conversion to other kinds of business. >> my job is to push as hard as i can to make sure that legislation gets off to be a little effect what is happening. >> the locals will drink to

that. there is a petition to back the new law and hope the campaign will succeed. this is the village of helsley it is an idyllic place. if a little too quiet. the post office is close. but they are still happy here. the paint is as fresh as the pride in a common victory. the village club together to save the pub from a developer who wanted to convert it to apartments. the locals bodice themselves and now 130 villagers co-owner and. the idea has turned the villagers into pub owners in their own right. >> it becomes a dormitory. people stay in the house is people go to each other's houses. that is why it is important in

this country to do this. >> luckily the money and the know-how came together here and the villagers have managed to save their corner of england. >> finally to the next in our series focusing on europe's squares. this time a look at turkey, where an unusual ancient sport is still popular. the spanish have bullfights and english hunt foxes. in turkey that is on camels as they wrestle each other. camel wrestling was started thousands of years ago by nomadic tribes in central asia.

there are still thousands of fighting camels in turkey, camel wrestling festivals and even beauty competitions are held during the winter. a chance for local people to earn a bit of extra money. >> feeding and milking the cows. cleaning out the stables. a daily routine. the store next door holds his true passion. they are treated to a daily wellness program. not to improve their carrying of burdens but to prepare them for wrestling matches. >> they love these. it relaxes them and gives them energy. >> they don't look aggressive on first sight. but he knows why they wear their muscles.

>> it is in their nature to assert themselves against rivals. that is why we don't have to train them for the matches. we just give them love. they are like our own children. >> a town on turkey's coast. there is no desert here and camels aren't indigenous. but the inhabitants came from central asia and brought the tradition of camel wrestling with them. a big match is scheduled this weekend. the first spectators have already arrived in the atmosphere is festive. the contestants have come from far and wide. first the animals wait in a parking garage. then the richly adorned candidates stressed -- strut their so -- strut their stuff in

a town of 40,000. most are farmers hoping to earn a little extra cash. the wrestling matches the high point of the year. >> it is a centuries old tradition. we cultivated. we honor our nomadic ancestors. >> he has come for a look at the competition before the matches begin. the owners all know each other. the camel season. they win their way along the gene coast to the various arenas. >> some animals like to attack from the left, others from the right. i know the style of most of the animals here. >> the animals are prepared for the fight. they are fitted with heavy saddles. the competition is not only about a few hundred euros in price money but the glory of victory. everyone is in suspense.

>> they know something is different today. are we going to make it to the finals? will everything come off? these thoughts stress all of us. >> than the caravan sets off. it is five kilometers to the arena. they all wear traditional orange and black. people have been streaming into the venue's since early morning. some spectators follow the route of the camel wrestling matches from one coastal town to the next. >> camel wrestling and rocky are both part of the fun. >> a stand sells camel sausage. even camels that can't wrestle anymore contrary to the celebration. the athletes march 1 last time past the grandstand where the

local notables have their places. the first two contestants are released. a match lasts five minutes. the winner is the camel that knocks over his opponent, pushes him aside or gets him in a headlock. an owner can give up by throwing the lead rug into the middle. >> he looks quite aggressive. the owners loved to wrestle -- the owner say the camels love to wrestle. >> the people pay no attention to such criticism. the strongest bull camel is up next. byron wants him to make the finals. the spectators are having a grand time. he throws himself on his opponents neck.

the other bull manages to stay on his feet. the match ends in a drop. >> i'm happy nevertheless. it was a fair fight. we were actually ahead on points. >> despite the tie they received the trophy. how they can rest from their exertions. it will be another year before the arena is open to drama terry's again. >> what a fascinating tradition. thank you very much for watching. do feel free to get in touch with any comments. for now it is goodbye from me. we will see you next time.

>> garrison keillor: toi derricotte grew up outside detroit. with the poet cornelius eady, she cofounded cave canem, an organization committed to cultivating and supporting the work of african american poets. she says, "truth telling in my art is also a way to separate myself from what i have been taught to believe about myself-- the degrading stereotypes about black women." >> blackbottom.

when relatives came from out of town, we would drive down to blackbottom. drive slowly down the congested main streets-- beaubien and hastings-- trapped in the mesh of saturday night. we were freshly escaped, black middle class. we snickered and were proud; the louder the streets, the prouder. we laughed at the bright clothes of a prostitute; a man sitting on a curb with a bottle in his hand. we smelled barbecue cooking in dented washtubs and our mouths watered. as much as we wanted it, we couldn't take the chance. rhythm and blues came from the windows, the throaty voice of a woman lost in the bass, in the

drums, in the dirty down and out-- the grind. ♪"i love to see a funeral, then i know it ain't mine." ♪ we rolled our windows down so that the waves rolled over us like blood. we hoped to pass invisibly, knowing on monday we would return safely to our jobs, the post office, and classroom. we wanted our sufferings to be offered up as tender meat, and our triumphs to be belted out in raucous song. we had lost our voice in the suburbs, in conant gardens, where each brick house delineated a fence of silence; we had lost the right to sing in the street and damn creation. we returned to wash our hands of

them; to smell them whose very existence tore us down to the human. ( applause ) thanks so much.

the king dom of bhutan, a landlocked area tucked away in the himalayans.