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narrator: with the naked eye, the great wall of china can't be seen from outer space. man: woo! you asked for it. narrator: sitting too close to the television won't make you go blind. i didn't even see you, man. how are you, buddy? good to see you. how you doing? - i can't-- can't complain, man. - doing good? doing fine. narrator: not everything we know is based entirely on fact. woman: johnny? yes. let's enjoy. you don't have to ask me twice. [laughs] don't have to ask me twice. columbus didn't set foot on american soil, nor did he discover the earth was flat. and the pilgrims, looking for freedom from persecution, first arrived not in plymouth but rather provincetown, massachusetts. i got to say, the pilgrims made a big mistake when they stopped here and continued on to plymouth because this place is absolutely magical. so here's to provincetown, and here's to all you.

cheers! cheers! p-town, located at the physical lands end of cape cod, has come to embody the pilgrims' initial intent, however. and the monument commemorating their landfall in the new world, standing 252 feet tall, is an omnipresent beacon informing all who set eyes upon it that this is a community where personal liberties, self-expression, and above all, acceptance aren't just cultivated. they're celebrated. the pilgrim house, as it's aptly named, while it doesn't actually date back to the pilgrims, it does have a very storied and rich history. i mean, it's an institution here, the pilgrim house. thank you. yeah. institution's a good word for it. narrator: ken horgan holds the distinction of being the current proprietor of providence town's oldest inn, first opened in 1810. in 1857, i think henry david thoreau stayed here and famously wrote what i call our, you know, first bad yelp review. he actually, in-- in his journals, mentioned us by name.

and then the pilgrim house, at one point, became the vixen. it was dedicated to woman. it was known as a lesbian bar. it was a nightclub. and that motivated me. i saw great opportunity to return an iconic property to its iconic status. and so i look at the comparisons over time on how people have experienced us through history. and one thing that is tradition is the commitment to be open and welcoming to all. narrator: the hotel has fashionable retail, a terrific food and beverage program, a kind and courteous staff. and then there's the entertainment. so would it be fair to say if you wrote a book about the pilgrim house, that it would be a real "paige turner?" - [laughs] - huh? how are you everybody? [cheering] are you ready to meet my girls? [music playing] narrator: the showroom at the pilgrim house regularly hosts the likes of chloe, delta miles, mayhaps, miss richfield 1981--

welcome to the show! narrator: --the exclusive world return of madam-- i'm no [bleep] dummy. narrator: --and of course, the property brand ambassador. i'm paige turner. unless you've been living under a rock, i'm like the chipotle of drag here in p-town, everybody. [laughter] how difficult must it be to have to be on and to have this much energy and to bring it every night? i love performing. it's the best. it's the best. who is straight in the audience? is straight? [cheering] honey, i mean, i've had a cocktail, but let's not be ridiculous. the audience is my drug. and when you're fully in it, they are in it. and then that just fuels me. yes. you are amazing! [cheering] 20 minutes, 30 minutes, halfway through the show, i actually forget that i am watching a man dressed in drag. i was incredibly impressed. and i think that's the sign of a well-defined strong commitment to character. narrator: and some truly terrific entertainers

have performed on these grounds throughout the decades. judy garland, lily tomlin, divine, i mean, those are icons. those are absolute icons. must feel pretty amazing to be able to perform here, to be able to carry the torch. i think there's something great about making sure we hold on to that history. like, i just didn't start one day, and i became fabulous, and this is mine. you weren't born this way? well, you ask lady gaga. i think i was. but you-- you have to remember all those people that came before you. and especially for drag entertainers, you're always inspired by someone. you have to take all those people into account. and that's important to me. this is a very attractive crowd. where is this table from? crowd: la. oh, christ. you're originally from new york? yeah. and you grew up in weymouth? i did. where's that in relation to provincetown? and how did you end up here? weymouth is just south of boston, north of plymouth on the water. and growing up and really struggling also

with my sexuality, you know, not knowing where i fit in, how i fit in, i stumbled across provincetown as a teen. i came once for the day and then didn't really experience provincetown much as a child growing up except for knowing that's where all the gays are and not always presented in such a friendly way. it was kind of known as don't go there. narrator: when was this? this was in the '80s, right? so then the aids epidemic hit. and provincetown had this reputation of being a welcoming place for all parties, but specifically those that were struggling with what in our day was, you know, the gay pandemic. and you know, people couldn't find care anywhere else in the world, came here. so this was almost like a refuge. always. always. and if you think about it, it still is. you know, we came from somewhere, and we have created this out of a need an urging, a wanting. and this is a place where you can come and recharge emotionally.

and you can connect culturally. it's removal from judgment, right? just this desire to not have to worry what everyone else is thinking about you. radical acceptance is what i call it. and there's something for everyone. yeah. you know, it's places like this that have withstood the test of time that are symbolic of the struggles and the successes that provincetown has had. [music playing]

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rob costa: provincetown has a lot of natural beauty, of course. but the dunes are really spectacular. and it's made possible by the fact that john f. kennedy and leverett saltonstall-- they were the massachusetts senators just before kennedy became

president-- they were able to acquire 44,000 acres of cape cod's prime coastline and create one of the largest protected coast in the united states. so it's the biggest part of provincetown. and yet it's definitely the road less traveled. and with a crew of 22 drivers, arch dune tours, owned and run by rob costa, is one of the few ways to ferry yourself from the hustle and bustle of provincetown's commercial street to the expansive oasis. what do you hope your guests are going to walk away with? we have been doing these tours for 75 years now. my dad started in 1946. narrator: wow. when he was born and raised here in 1920, it was about six years after his parents came from portugal. a lot of portuguese families came over to fish. and then he got called to war. he fought in italy. he came back with a purple heart and an oak leaf cluster, called his buddies at the ford dealership. and he bought a 1936 ford woody pictured here. check that out. rob costa: and he started our arch beach taxies. did you come out here with him when you were your child?

oh, yeah, i was driving even before i could reach the pedals, you know, sitting on his lap and steering. that's great. he drove for 50 years of his life. and then sadly he got sick with alzheimer's. and that's when i came back home to take over the family business. and i've been driving roughly 40 years of my life, off and on. this must bring back really good memories, huh? yeah, very much so. look at this. how beautiful. wow. race point beach garners you access the provincetown's back shore. rob costa: this is really one of the only few beaches you can watch the sunrise and the sunset over the atlantic ocean. no kidding? ah, the ocean air. we go into the big sand dunes. i got to bring my tires down to 11 pounds. that's the magic number. narrator: you're bringing them down? rob costa: yeah. narrator: ok. make sure you don't get stuck. rob costa: all right. narrator: how are we going to do this? rob costa: ready? narrator: woo! yeah! rob costa: i thought i said it was going to be bumpy. it's incredible how you go from some of the most breathtaking coastline, go over one sand dune,

and now you're in the outback. it's rare that you could spend 360 degrees around anywhere and just see pristine, untouched landscape. rolling, wind-kissed sand dunes, some 110 feet tall, see flora and fauna as far as the eye can see. and peppered in between them, 19 wooden shacks originally constructed to shelter those shipwrecked off the cape cod coast. what are they being used for today? well, nine of them are still privately maintained by families that have been there for many, many years. but the other 10, the government have taken over, and they lease them for artists-in-residency programs. narrator: and throughout passing time, the shacks have provided both refuge and creative inspiration for the likes of literary geniuses such as tennessee williams e.e. cummings, and jack kerouac. isn't that crazy? i mean, it's such a sparse area. it's so rich in history.

and the valley here is where the film the original movie "the thomas crown affair." my dad helped film the movie out here. so we met steve. narrator: get out of here! rob costa: of course, my mom got a little jealous, you know, because she had a big crush on steve mcqueen. [laughs] you obviously had a close relationship with your father. how important was it for you to kind of carry on his legacy? i thought it was pretty important because he just kept doing it because he loved it so much. my path is the same way. what a great way to honor your dad and everything that he built. thank you. it's pretty cool. as the butterfly-- as the butterfly flies by! and the thing is, i always think my mom checks on me when i see a butterfly, i swear to god. stop. honest to god, every time a butterfly comes near me, i think it's my mom checking on me. that's amazing! and look, as we're talking about your dad, your mom flew by. - it's so funny. - wow. what a special place.

[singing in italian] [singing in italian] [singing in italian] narrator: in spain, the spaniards run with the bulls to symbolize the animal's transportation from the fields to the fights. brazil commemorates the catholic holiday of lent with the craziness of carnival. but in provincetown, massachusetts,

no one ever needs an excuse to party. and for the last 50 years, during high summer season, between the hours of 4:00 and 7:00 pm, the town population, comprised of tourists and locals alike, parade to the boat slip for a daily dose of afternoon tea. the boat slip and tea dance is an institution here. what's it like to be the ringleader of this dance party? tea dance is everything to me. and i have embodied it myself. so i can't imagine a better situation than i have. i've been so, so blessed and lucky to be here. narrator: for nearly 30 years, local legend dj maryalice has been providing the pulse to p-town on the ones and twos. i don't see any tea or crumpets. what time do those arrive? it's not a tea party. no tea? ok. i'll take a hard tea. - we have those. perfect. [laughter] and since 2006, both slip gm terry mccumber has been heading up hospitality at this appropriately named party. it's basically a nightclub at tea time, which is how it got his name of tea dance. so it's really just a nightclub atmosphere

in the middle of the afternoon. the tea dance, it's just a fancy way of saying, we're going to have a good time. we're going to party. the final component in keeping this long-running provincetown tradition alive is the completely uninhibited crowd. dj maryallice: the great thing about the boat slip is, is we welcome everyone. hello! well, hello there. dj maryallice: and it's all kinds of people. i love your outfit. hey, man, i love your outfit too almost as much i like this guy's beard. straight brothers like yourself. - are you gay? - no, i'm not. with this outfit, you should be gay. i should, right? dj maryallice: and everyone comes here, and they have a great time together. and i think it's just like a slice of heaven. woo! terry mccumber: it's great to see new generations become acclimated to tea dance. and you know, it's great to still see, you know, the older generation still come back and watch them intermingle. narrator: it's almost like you have no other choice

but to get to know people. terry mccumber: and so many people have met here. dj maryallice: people that have met their-- their husbands and wives. the stories are endless about that. and that's what people will say to me. you have no idea how much a part of the fabric of my life you are. you're like a yenta. i kinda-- i guess i might be. you could-- you should--to a because of all the amazing people you've brought together. she's already got the fist pump going. there's no place i'd rather be than sitting outside after a long night of drinking with a slice of pizza in my hand. - all right! i love it. you made it. narrator: spiritus is quintessentially the place for the best slice of pizza in provincetown. who opened this fine establishment? my dad, john yingling, opened spiritus in 1971 with a business partner. and they sold cheese slices on napkins for $0.35. so this is 50 years of perfection.

- perfection. - yeah. wow. yeah, this is a place that has made a lot of people feel safe for a long time. and yeah, proud to be part of it. the only thing more beautiful than that sentiment was this slice. we always say it's more than just pizza. it's not just pizza because, you know, you could find anything here. oh, could you? you know? yeah, you could find love. narrator: you could. sophie yingling: yeah, which happens every night. narrator: open and busy all day, the shop is absolutely bustling after the bars and clubs close at 1:00 am. sophie yingling: people know that at the end of the night, you can come here. [shrieks] sophie yingling: for years, they used to shut down commercial street. narrator: commercial street is the main thoroughfare here through town. sophie yingling: yeah. and our pizza's really good. it's, like, crispy, thin. it's like jersey boardwalk style pizza, which is where my dad and his brothers learned how to make pies. narrator: while lots of love, care and kindness go into creating each and every pie-- both my uncles work here. my uncle makes all the dough.

my dad and brothers, both my sisters. wow. [laughs] yeah. there's a lot of us. narrator: --it's sophie yingling who's now charged with running this beloved business. is that special to you, to be able to carry on a legacy in provincetown? oh, my god, i honestly get so emotional thinking about how much i love spiritus. this place is so, so, so special to me. so it's definitely like a legacy that's been handed down. and it is-- honestly, like, it's an honor to hold. is it easy running a pizza shop, or would you say it ain't easy being cheesy? [laughs] you know what was say? no, tell me. there's no business like dough business. narrator: ha, ha! i like that. i thought mine was good, but you actually-- you actually outdid me there.

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when painter charles hawthorne established the cape cod school of art in provincetown back in 1899, he solidified the locale as one of the most important places in the global creative community. any major american artist that you could name off probably came to provincetown at one point or another-- edward hopper, for example, helen frankenthaler, and lee krasner. jackson pollock was here for a minute. but what is it about provincetown

that makes it such an amazing just hotbed for art of all different sorts? i think a lot of it is curiosity. you could be anything you wanted to be in provincetown. and no one really cared. it really helped people kind of break out of more conservative molds to be who they really wanted to be. and there's really an interesting piece of provincetown that promotes and supports this artist community like no other. artists support the community. but then the community, in turn, supports the artist. yes. narrator: chris mccarthy has the esteemed privilege of acting as the chief curator and ceo of paam, the provincetown art association and museum, a position she's held for 20 years. what brought you to provincetown? i had been working at the institute of contemporary art in boston. i came for my interview with no intention of taking this job. i was in a suit. and if you're in a suit in provincetown, you're either a jehovah's witness or you're selling encyclopedias. so i completely stuck out. but no one else in the whole world can say that i get to come here and do what i was trained to do in the oldest continuous art

colony in america. so the legacy is really, really important. narrator: this building house is a collection comprised entirely of work which celebrates that prestigious status. one of the things that i really like to do is bring an artist out of the basement. ooh, these are beautiful. bring the work out and let people learn. pieces like this are timeless. you wouldn't be able to tell if something like this, if this was done yesterday-- that's right. --or 100 years ago. correct. we don't just protect the historic legacy of provincetown. we promote the contemporary. the exhibition that we're standing in now is our 12 by 12 member show, which has 388 pieces. every single piece is for sale. these pieces are also up for sale. the 12 by 12s are all living artists that are members of paam. this is a consignment auction of deceased provincetown artists, artists like manseau and william fried and john grillo. dorothy lake gregory was married to ross moffett, who was one of the most important artists that really bridged the gap between traditional artwork

and abstract. so dorothy is little miss muffet. i guess she is, yes. narrator: you ever look at paam like it's just your canvas, and you can just continue to create? it's so true. and the idea that we still have so much more to do is just really exciting to me. i can't believe that i get to come here every day in a place like provincetown. i mean, i still get butterflies. narrator: yeah. take a queer safe space-- johnny. - johnny. matthew. - matthew. pleasure. --mixed with an all welcoming attitude-- everybody that wants to be is a part of this. narrator: --sprinkle in some fantastic feasts of food, drink, and adventure, then season with a serving of love. and you've only still just begun to scratch the surface. i've been all over the world, and this place just has an energy about it. and it's palpable. provincetown is a conduit, connecting the past to the present and projecting into the future. celebrating and remembering that,

it does inform who we are. narrator: and to taste its charm is to yearn for seconds. here's to leaving a lasting legacy. yes, everybody, cheers to you! slurp. narrator: (chuckling) slurp! in business, setbacks change everything. so get comcast business internet and add securityedge. it helps keep your network safe by scanning for threats every 10 minutes. and unlike some cybersecurity options, this helps protect every connected device. yours, your employees' and even your customers'. so you can stay ahead. get started with a great offer and ask how you can add comcast business securityedge. plus for a limited time, ask how to get a $500 prepaid card when you upgrade. call today.

i'm sara gore, and this is open house. this week we join a fine dining chef at his upper west side apartment slash culinary laboratory. and sonja morgan of bravo's real housewives of new york city

shows us around her elegant upper east side townhouse.