and ford-- built for the road ahead. >> stahl: i heard that there were gang members on motorcycles with ak-47s on their backs right out here. >> they were establishing the fact that this is their territory and they're willing to fight to keep it. >> stahl: fear of the gangs was so high that parents and kids were often afraid to walk the streets. >> carlos, miguel. nice to meet you, carlos. >> stahl: now, big, burly troopers and teachers walk neighborhood kids to school. it's a strong visual message to the families there that the troopers and police are protecting their children and taking control of the streets back from the gangs.

>> pelley: the "africa mercy" sails into ports to treat diseases that the rest of the world doesn't see anymore. >> you are our baby. >> pelley: for her mostly american crew... >> hey, i hear your voice. >> pelley: ...it is the journey of a lifetime. you know that there are some people saying to themselves, "i could never do what she does. those poor people are terribly disfigured. i can't look at them." >> people have been saying that to these people their whole lives. someone has to look at them. someone has to look them in the eye and tell them that you're human and i recognize that in you. >> safer: out on the lone prairie, a 200-mile drive from the nearest airport, stands marfa, population 2,000. the train doesn't stop here anymore. at first glance, the place may

look half dead. but look closer. marfa today is an eccentric tex- mex place of art galleries, tourists, cowboys and characters. >> i'm steve kroft. >> i'm leslie stahl. >> i'm bob simon. >> i'm morley safer. >> i'm lara logan. >> i'm scott pelley. those stories tonight on "60 minutes." go!

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and afghanistan, our soldiers have been waging what's known as counterinsurgency. they're supposed to be both warriors and community builders, going village to village driving out insurgents while winning the hearts and minds of the population. but counterinsurgency has had mixed results at best. we met a green beret who is finding out in his job as a police officer that the strategy might actually have a better chance of working right here at home in the u.s.a. call him and his fellow officers counterinsurgency cops. as we first reported in may, they're not fighting al qaeda or the taliban, but street gangs and drug dealers in one of the most crime-ridden cities in new england. >> mike cutone: turning now, turning now on orchard. >> stahl: mike cutone is a massachusetts state trooper, part of a special unit targeting gang crime in the city of springfield. >> cutone: put your hands behind your back! stop resisting! read him his rights in spanish.

get the gun? >> stahl: he's also a green beret, who, after returning from iraq, had an "aha" moment when he was talking to a gas station manager in springfield. >> cutone: gang members would come in there, pull out a weapon, point it at employees or patrons, take what they want and walk out. no one was calling the springfield police, and no one was calling the state police. >> stahl: what this community was dealing with were gangs. they are a criminal enterprise. how are they like insurgents in iraq? >> cutone: insurgents and gang members both want to operate in a failed area-- a failed community or a failed state. they know they can live off the passive support of the community where the community is not going to call or engage the local police. >> stahl: the similarities to the iraqi town he had lived in and defended were so striking that he sat down and wrote out an action plan for springfield. >> cutone: we had this concept of what we would call a pilot

team where you would handpick select troopers, give them specific training and embed them in the community and start winning over the community. >> stahl: he proposed his plan, a counterinsurgency program, to springfield's deputy police chief, john barbieri. but he was saying he was going to bring military tactics into an american city. i mean, you must have had some qualms about that. >> barbieri: well, once it became clear that he wasn't talking about checkpoints or fast roping from helicopters, that he was talking about going door to door, organizing the neighborhood into a collaboration to report crime, to get involved in solving their own problems, it became obvious to me that that was exactly the type of program i needed for this neighborhood. >> stahl: barbieri and trooper cutone took us to a housing project in that neighborhood known as the north end. i heard that there were gang members on motorcycles with ak- 47s on their backs, right out here. >> barbieri: they were very well organized. they had lookouts. they disappeared when the sector cars came. >> stahl: they were just riding

right up here in front? >> barbieri: they were establishing the fact that this was their territory, and they were willing to fight to keep it. >> stahl: deputy police chief barbieri was desperate for a way to break the gangs' hold on the community, so three years ago, he agreed to let cutone and a small team of elite troopers-- most of them war veterans, too-- target the north end, which had become a violent marketplace for some of the cheapest heroin in the whole country. in addition to drug busts, they walked the streets, knocked on doors, hung out in neighborhood shops trying to woo the locals. >> cutone: here for pastries today, food? >> woman: yes. >> cutone: outstanding. this is the best place in springfield! >> stahl: but there was a lot of skepticism; not everyone welcomed the troopers. >> cutone: i could remember one door, the last knock of the day that i had. a grandmother comes out, and she just teed off on me. wanted nothing to do with me, used colorful language, said the

police were racist, et cetera, et cetera. >> stahl: but they kept at it, almost daily... >> cutone: trooper mike cutone. nice to see you, sir. >> stahl: ...and eventually began developing sources and tips. >> cutone: we're not just using bad guys for information and getting information; we're using the other 99% of the population that live there, winning them over. they become our eyes and ears. and the floodgates have opened for criminal information that we can go after now. >> stahl: the floodgates have opened? >> cutone: yes, they have. >> stahl: that much? >> cutone: yes, that much. myself and the other troopers, my phone is ringing constantly every day, either text messages... they'll send me pictures of where they located guns. they'll send me e-mails of who's selling drugs. >> stahl: one of the keys to building trust in iraq, cutone says, was having his counterinsurgency team move into the town, sending a message: "we're not going away." yeah, but eventually you drive off. >> cutone: we do drive off, but when we drive off, we've given them a template on how to control their town independently and without fear.

>> stahl: with the uncertainty about counterinsurgency's ultimate success overseas, the troopers and local police are determined to build something permanent in springfield. >> cutone: as always, remember why we are here. >> stahl: and essential to that is a regular thursday "elders" meeting. local residents come together with politicians, police, health and housing organizations, educators, businessmen and latino leaders. so, how important are these meetings to the overall mission? >> cutone: they're crucial. they're crucial. what we found out is, you had all these different groups that do good work for low-income folks in troubled areas. none of them were talking with each other. so, the thursday meeting brought all these people together. karen pullman, a nurse from baystate, raises her hand at one thursday eeting and says, "hey, i want to create a walking school bus." we're like, "what's a walking school bus? that's great." >> stahl: fear of the gangs was so high that parents and kids were often afraid to walk the streets.

>> cutone: carlos, miguel. nice to meet you, carlos. >> stahl: now, big, burly troopers and teachers walk neighborhood kids to school. it's a strong visual message to the families there that the troopers and police are protecting their children and taking control of the streets back from the gangs. >> cutone: and that's the beauty of the thursday meeting. it's empowering the residents and the people that come to it. >> kit parker: lesley, they're just like the village elder meetings i was doing in every village i patrolled in in afghanistan. >> stahl: major kit parker is a professor of engineering at harvard. he also led counterinsurgency operations in afghanistan. >> parker: the key thing with counterinsurgency, based on my experience is: make a friend. make a friend. i don't have to find the enemy, i have to find a friend. if you find your friends, they're going to take you to your enemy. >> stahl: he was on national guard training one weekend two years ago, telling a group from his unit that he wanted to find a police department to test out using counterinsurgency against gangs.

believe it or not, mike cutone was in his unit. >> cutone: and then i shared with him, "hey, we're doing this in springfield," and his eyes lit up. >> stahl: his eyes lit up? his jaw dropped, is what he told us. >> cutone: yeah. >> parker: he said he had a bad gang problem in the north end of springfield. he said people were riding around on motorcycles with assault rifles slung over their back. and i got this vision of mogadishu. i got this vision of kandahar province where i saw this all the time-- two guys on a motorcycle, one's got a ak-47 on his back. and then i told mike, i said, "i teach a class at harvard. let me see if i can bring this class in on this." >> stahl: and so, last spring, parker turned his junior engineering class into a counterinsurgency lab. >> parker: help me understand what kind of intelligence i need to collect when i am in the field, whether it is in the north end, i'm on main street standing by the taco truck, or if i am in kandahar city. that's the kind of data i need. >> stahl: parker had his students, with their computer smarts, develop software for intelligence collection.

with it, the troopers are building a database of gang members similar to what special forces are doing overseas. >> you have two tattoos. >> stahl: the troopers collect data as they book suspects, like criminal histories and tattoos... >> two tear drops. >> stahl: ...and use the information to make maps of the gangs' social networks-- who they know and who they associate with. once a gang's key figures are identified, the troopers try and remove them from the streets in hopes of fracturing the entire network. >> cutone: hi, ma'am. how you doing today? >> stahl: cutone brought parker and his students onto the streets of springfield so the class could survey the residents to see if any of the symptoms of that failed community had been alleviated. >> parker: they took a look at everything from s.t.d. rates in neighborhoods where you have gang activity, litter, graffiti, school attendance, all of these things.

>> stahl: they found that since the counterinsurgency operation started, north end schools have seen fewer discipline problems and drug offenses, and that litter and gang graffiti is no longer everywhere in sight-- important indicators, parker says, that the community is no longer totally under the gangs' control. >> parker: what we're seeing is that the number of calls for service is going up in the north end. so, that means... >> stahl: they're reporting crime. >> parker: that's right. they're reporting crime. and i see that means the legitimacy of the mass state police and the springfield p.d. has increased, and the residents of the north end realize they are their instrument to clean up their neighborhood. >> teddy cupak: i've been robbed 55 times that the police know about, but not lately. >> stahl: at the thursday community meeting we attended, residents like teddy cupak said this is the first time the police have really made a difference in the north end. >> cupak: this is what i want to get across-- this concept does work. it sort of flushes them out. i don't know where they go.

i hope they get help. >> cutone: well, hey, teddy, some of them are going to work, and some are going to jail and some leave. >> cupak: that's right. >> cutone: that's my cell number. don't give my cell number out. i don't want to get prank phone calls at 3:00 in the morning. if you are really looking for a job, we know a guy that hires kids and puts them to work doing construction work. >> stahl: let me ask you something. those functions that you are performing, that sounds to me like a social service job instead of a police job. >> cutone: if the government is not going to do it, or individuals aren't going to do it, why can't the police provide leadership or partner up with the community and say, "hey, here's a plan. this is what we want to do to help"? because the status quo of traditional policing, it ain't just going to work. it's not going to work. >> stahl: but you are still making drug arrests. >> cutone: but, see, you are misconstruing it like you're going to eliminate drugs completely. you're not. what you want to do is reduce it to a level where you can manage it and then single them out one by one, versus having it rampant throughout the city.

>> stahl: springfield police say they are managing it in their target neighborhood of the north end. they say violent crime fell last year by 25%; drug offenses dropped nearly 50%. >> cutone: how long ago did that happen, sir? >> stahl: to show us how they're using the tips they're getting to fracture the gang networks, cutone took us on a nighttime drug raid. >> police radio: target's out, target's out. >> stahl: it was like a military operation adapted in interesting ways for an american city. >> cutone: they are in what looks a bread truck, an unmarked bread truck. >> stahl: but the bread truck was filled with a swat team looking like soldiers riding into battle. >> state police, search warrant! state police, search warrant! >> stahl: as they burst in, someone on the second floor hurled something out the window. what do they got? >> looks like a glock. >> stahl: a semi-automatic pistol. they also found around five

grams of heroin and arrested three young men the police say are drug dealers, members of a local gang-- one of them just 15 years old. but that wasn't the most important thing the team did that night. very quickly, cutone and the troopers turned their attention to the neighbors. >> cutone: i'm sorry, what is your name? >> carlos: carlos. >> cutone: carlos, nice to meet you. i like your rosary. i got one in my pocket. >> stahl: even on these kinds of operations, they put on the charm offensive. >> cutone: we want to engage these other folks and let them know what's going on and why we're here. >> stahl: and that was part of the operation. >> cutone: absolutely. >> stahl: this summer, mike cutone and his army unit are being deployed to teach counterinsurgency to the afghan forces. having brought what he learned at war home, he now wants to bring what he's learned on the streets of springfield back to afghanistan. >> cutone: good to see you. you take care. >> go to 60mintuesovertime.com for a tour of the harvard laboratory where science meets war.

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>> pelley: around the world, countless millions suffer with diseases that could be easily cured if those patients could reach modern medical care. for a fortunate few, there is a lifeline called "africa mercy." as we first told you in february, she is the largest civilian hospital ship on the seas. but she is also the closest thing to a time machine you're ever likely to see. her largely american crew brings 21st-century medicine to people who believe that illnesses are caused by evil spirits. the patients' beliefs may seem archaic, but their courage is to

be admired. they suffer from diseases unseen in america, illnesses that can make you believe in curses. spend a few days, as we did, aboard the "africa mercy" and you will see how two worlds meet at the intersection of courage and compassion. she can be described in the usual dimensions of a ship-- 500 feet in length, eight decks, a crew of 450. or you can reckon "africa mercy" as a hospital-- 90 nurses, 15 doctors, 78 beds, and six operating rooms. one of the first doctors who invited us into surgery was gary parker, a maxillo-facial surgeon who came to the ship on a lark. >> gary parker: and i remember saying to myself, "when i get an opportunity, i want to come maybe for a few months and just see what this is about, see if i'm cut out of the right fabric

for that kind of life." >> pelley: and how long have you been here? >> parker: 26 years. bonjour.... >> pelley: you'll understand why he stayed when you see the ship at work, as we did, in togo, west africa. a lot of ways here haven't changed in centuries. most live on $2 a day. there are few medical facilities. when the ship comes in, folks line up by the thousands for free dental surgery, eye surgery, and maxillo-facial procedures for cleft palates and other deformities. "africa mercy" makes port in countries all along the arc of west africa, 1,800 miles where slave ships used to land. trace that coastline and you've put your finger on several of the poorest countries on earth. here in togo, the lack of development and the poverty mean that one out of ten children-- one out of ten-- dies before the

age of five. they die of diseases that we just don't see in the united states, including a particular kind of facial tumor that is a specialty of the ship. what you're about to see can be very hard to look at, but if you'll be patient, it'll be worth it. gary parker is the chief surgeon. >> parker: hello... >> pelley: and one of his patients, edoh, was back for a checkup 17 years after surgery. you're thinking she's disfigured now, but in 1995, at the age nine, a tumor destroyed her face and it was crushing her windpipe. >> parker: she was struggling to breathe. i was amazed at the sense of community. lots of people were waiting outside the gate, and many with problems of their own. but when they saw edoh, they picked her up, put her over her... over their heads, and literally passed her through the crowd, over the gate, and into the screening.

because they recognized that her need was greater. >> pelley: these tumors aren't cancer; they're benign. in fact, it's tooth enamel that won't stop growing. in the u.s., a dentist would remove it before it ever showed. but here, it is understood to be a curse. >> parker: these are people that go out at night and they forage for food. and then, in the day, they hide. they can't go to the market. they certainly can't go to school. they are isolated. >> pelley: so these patients arrive and they're coming up the gangway. what do you imagine that's like for them? >> parker: i've seen it happen over and over and over again that when they are greeted on the ship or when they're greeted at screening, and someone comes and shakes their hand, it's like "somebody recognizes that i'm inside here." you know, "i'm trapped, i can't get away from this tumor. but i'm still in here." and the healing begins when they get acceptance based on who they are, no conditions, just, "we know you're in there. fatimata. we know you're in there."

>> pelley: and that's what he told a woman named marta who's been trapped behind a tumor that has been growing for three years. her husband had banished her from the home. she could die, over time, from this? >> parker: oh, yeah. why, in 2012, should people be dying of benign disease? there are lots of reasons. there are no good reasons, but there are lots of reasons why that's the case. long-tooth forceps, please? >> pelley: so you're going to replace her jaw with a titanium jaw, essentially? >> parker: yeah. and then, some months later, bone from the hip is taken and put around the titanium, and that grows into new jaw bone. >> pelley: we followed marta's progress over several months, and in a moment, we'll show you the change. >> parker: the uniform that's put on people when you have these terrible deformities is, "you're rubbish, you're worthless. you're spiritually cursed, you're..." and when you can change the uniform, it's huge.

and the person starts to imagine that they might not be rubbish after all. no one in our world is rubbish. >> pelley: edoh, that first patient that we met, who came as a child, reclaimed her humanity with four surgeries in 17 years. i understand that you're in school. what are you studying? >> translator: she wants to become a nurse to help other people, too. >> pelley: she wants to be a nurse. >> translator: yes. >> pelley: she's met a lot of good nurses in her life. >> translator: yes. ( laughter ) >> pelley: and we met a lot of good nurses, too. >> do we want to do more than two days of... >> pelley: ali chandra is from new jersey. you know, you could be a nurse anywhere. you could be a nurse back home. i wonder why you do this work? >> ali chandra: i could never be a nurse back home anymore. i could never go back. there's just this sense of real community that i would really, really miss if i ever left.

>> pelley: one of her jobs in this community is to care for the sickest patients. >> chandra: you're all right, baby, you're all right. >> pelley: this is esther, another one of the tumor patients, as her breathing tube was being removed. >> chandra: okay. >> pelley: esther's tumor was massive and her recovery a desperate struggle. >> chandra: hey, i hear your voice, i hear your voice. that's so good. >> pelley: esther could not understand the language, but the touch was unmistakable. >> chandra: good job, sweetheart. >> pelley: you know that there are some people watching this interview who are saying to themselves, "i could never do what she does. those poor people are terribly disfigured. i can't look at them." >> chandra: people have been saying that to these people their whole lives, and someone has to look at them, someone has to look them in the eye and tell them that "you're human and i recognize that in you." and it's really interesting when... sorry.

when new nurses come, a lot of the times, they're very shocked, and you can tell that this is... "oh, i remember that, the first time i saw that it was kind of shocking." but you... it gets to the point where you don't... you don't see it anymore. you don't see the tumor. you just can see the person's eyes. or if they only have one eye, because the other one is a tumor, you find their eye and you find a way to connect with them. >> pelley: that personal connection can last for years. a lot of these patients need multiple surgeries, and they'll come back again and again as the ship returns. the idea for all of this set sail back in 1978, when don stephens of texas started a charity that he calls mercy ships. so how did you find this ship? >> don stephens: we found her in denmark. she was a rail ferry. >> pelley: "africa mercy" replaced three earlier vessels, and stephens says that, over 35 years, hundreds of thousands of patients have been aboard his ships.

where does the money come from? >> stephens: we've got corporate sponsors that we couldn't do what we do without them. secondly, by the crew themselves. we have a unique business model. we charge everyone for the privilege of volunteering. >> pelley: and you pay them nothing? >> stephens: everyone pays their own way. >> pelley: doctors, nurses and crew pay their own way with donations from home, mostly from churches. >> would it be okay if we pray with you? >> pelley: you're often reminded onboard that this is a christian charity... >> chandra: god, you are good. >> parker: we pray for your protection over her. >> and we pray for a complete recovery. >> pelley: ...a charity that treats patients of any faith. >> amen. >> pelley: west africa is a territory of tribes, and the ship is a tribe unto itself. there's no help out here. >> fire on board. >> pelley: the crew drills for every emergency. it's a tight community. many stay for years. >> "r", which is the rate.

>> pelley: they raise their children in the ship's school, and return to america on vacation. ali chandra's been on board four years and, now, she's pregnant, but she plans to stay. i wonder, do you think of this as a sacrifice that you're making? >> chandra: no, not at all. there's things i miss from home. i miss strawberries and i miss fresh milk. and i miss my family. not in that order. you have no idea how awesome this life is. i get to see the world. and i get to take care of incredible people. and why would you want to live in a house on land? this is way more fun. >> pelley: you met your husband here? >> chandra: i did. yep. i am one of the mercy ships' romances. not the only one. >> pelley: are there a lot of those? >> chandra: they call it the "love boat." yeah. >> pelley: who calls it the "love boat?" >> chandra: i know a lot of... any of us who have found our loves here. >> pelley: she found phil, a ship's electrician. gary parker met his wife, susan, onboard.

and they've raised wesley and carys in a 630-square-foot cabin. susan found out how long they were staying on tv. >> susan parker: somebody had asked him the question, "how long do you plan to be here?" and gary looked straight in the camera and he said, "i hope for the rest of my life." and we looked at each other and sucked in our breath. ( laughter ) and we started a journey of adjusting our expectations from that point. >> pelley: the first time you saw him after you saw the documentary, did you say... >> susan: yeah, i did. and he said, "you never asked." >> pelley: "you never asked." the only life the kids have known makes them strangers back home. >> susan: a couple of years ago, we were in santa barbara, visiting gary's mom. and i gave carys a letter and i said, "would you go down and mail this for me?" and she was gone for about 20 minutes. and when she came back, she said, "i don't know what a mailbox looks like." ( laughs ) and i thought, "okay, we're in trouble here." >> pelley: and today, you do not wish you were somewhere else. >> susan: no. you know, there's nothing wrong

with living at home, but i don't think it's what we're supposed to do. >> pelley: that conviction tends to be renewed with every life that is changed. the quickest change that we saw came in the patients who were the slowest up the gangway, each step taken on trust. they're blind-- cataracts. the surgery takes half an hour-- cataract out, new lens in. some of them had been blind for decades; now, they can see in 24 hours, a cause for celebration. the maxillo-facial patients are years from healing completely. this was marta before her jaw was replaced. and this is how she looked after surgery. the tumor is gone; it won't grow back. and when the ship returns, she'll have cosmetic surgery for the scars. "africa mercy" spent five months in this port.

281 tumors removed, 34 cleft palates made whole, and 794 blind patients returned to sight. with that, "africa mercy" threw off her bonds to togo and steamed for another desperate point on the african coast. the "africa mercy" has just completed another mission, this time in the west african country of guinea. its next port of call is the republic of congo. on board will be ali and phil chandra, along with their baby girl, zoe. >> welcome to the cbs sports update presented by pacific life. here in the final round of the world golf championships bridgestone invitational from firestone country club, tiger woods shot a final round 70 to win for the eighth time here. a win by seven shots.

next week the final major of the year from oak hill in rochester, new york, the pga championship. cbs sports coverage begins saturday at 2:00 eastern. for more sports news and information, go to cbssports.com. information, go to cbssports.com. jim nantz reporting from ohio. t. ♪ ...starting a family... ♪ ...or entering a new chapter of your life. while the journey is yours, pacific life can help you protect and grow the assets you'll need along the way. to learn how, visit pacificlife.com. pacific life. the power to help you succeed. [ male announcer ] you wait all year for summer. ♪ this summer was definitely worth the wait. ♪ summer's best event from cadillac. let summer try and pass you by.

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>> safer: it sometimes seems america is a country hopelessly divided-- by class, by politics, by culture. tonight, we go once again to a remote place where few have trodden before-- marfa, texas-- for a lesson in artful coexistence. marfa is in cattle country, the high desert of far west texas. like many small towns, it's come close to extinction. but today, marfa lives on, is even thriving; its renaissance spurred by the arrival of a host of young, cutting-edge artists. mixing cowboys and culture might seem like a bad idea, but it's made marfa a capital of quirkiness. and as we reported in april, it's produced a harmony as sweet as the country music that fills the air.

>> ♪ blue texas skies keep shining down on me... ♪ >> safer: out on the lone prairie, a 200-mile drive from the nearest airport, stands marfa, population 2,000. the train doesn't stop here anymore and, at first glance, the place may look half dead. ♪ ♪ but look closer. marfa today is an eccentric tex- mex stew of art galleries, tourists, cowboys and characters. >> dan dunlap: it's a freedom- loving town. people are allowed just to live and let live. >> safer: as mayor, dan dunlap presides over a town where old marfans saddle up to ride the range and the new ones paint and sculpt, all in a very quiet place. crime a problem? >> dunlap: no, sir, crime is not a problem. >> safer: when was the last murder you had in marfa?

>> dunlap: can't remember. >> and action! >> safer: well, there was one. the coen brothers shot their movie, "no country for old men," outside of town. they needed a local to murder, one with some acting experience. >> chip love: i told them i was in the "wizard of oz" in high school, and they said, "that's perfect." >> safer: ( laughs ) so, chip love, a local banker, found himself face to face with that loco hombre, javier bardem. it's pretty unusual for the town's leading banker... >> love: yeah, i'm the town's leading banker. the only one, yeah. >> safer: ...to get shot in the head by a crazed crook. >> love: well, i think a lot of people would like to see their banker shot right now. >> safer: actually, the movies and marfa go way back. in 1955, the texas epic "giant" was filmed here, and townspeople got to watch rock hudson roping, james dean riding and elizabeth taylor... well, just being elizabeth taylor.

there's a shrine to the movie in marfa's paisano hotel. >> love: it was about cattle. it was about ranches. it was about the things that we hold dear. >> marfa! >> safer: but these days, watching the passing parade, you're not quite sure if you're in mayberry or greenwich village. >> ( cheers ) >> safer: for old marfans, there's the gun show. >> we started this program in 2010. >> safer: for new marfans, a symposium on politics, culture, climate and sustainability. ♪ ♪ and, for reasons we weren't able to pin down, adolescent hula dancers. >> buck johnston: i mean, it's nutty. it's just this cultural little hub in the middle of nowhere. we think it's the best small town in america. >> camp bosworth: don't tell anybody. edit that out, please. >> johnston: that's right. >> safer: camp bosworth and buck johnston are members in good standing of the marfa new wave, their gallery packed with camp's

texas-size wood carvings. >> bosworth: this is a six- shooter, it's gold leaf. and this turns, you know. i've carved it with various details. >> safer: there's also the pistol that doubles as a bar. you've got lots of tequila. >> bosworth: yeah, lots of tequila. >> safer: a few blocks away, painter ann marie nafziger is hard at work, an ohio native who moved here from portland, oregon. your first trip to marfa, what did you make of the place? >> nafziger: i was astounded by the landscape coming in, the land and the light. it's an incredible place to look at as a painter. i love living here. >> maryam amiryani: with the elvis... >> safer: maryam amiryani paints still lifes and cultural icons. she was born in iran, traveled the world, and wound up in marfa. >> amiryani: my husband and i wanted to move somewhere to live a simple life close to nature, to paint more. >> safer: what did this place have that others might not have had? >> amiryani: it just seemed a bit more... more extreme, and

that... that appealed to us. ( laughs ) >> ♪ welcome to west texas... >> safer: if you want extreme, try the weather in marfa. >> ♪ ...dust clouds, a tornado or two... ♪ >> safer: it's best described as "all over the map." >> ♪ well, the wind outside is howlin', coyotes cry in fear ♪ welcome to west texas you're going to like it here... >> love: i've always been amazed at the courage these people have that come out here and not really sure how they're going to make a living. and they just show up because it feels right. ♪ ♪ >> safer: the new marfans have transformed the place. padre's,the local watering hole, was once a funeral parlor. ballroom marfa, a gallery, was a mexican dance hall. camp and buck live in a converted church. and there are further signs this is not your grandfather's marfa. >> yoga teacher: exhale,

forward, fold... >> safer: yoga fans can catch up on their chakras and downward dogs at the town bookstore, and also read up on abstract expressionism. tim johnson, a poet/ philosopher, runs the place. this is a remarkably big bookshop for a very small town. >> johnson: yeah, it really is. we have, like, 60 to maybe 80 or 90 people who come out for a poetry reading, which is strange. and it has something to do with the fact that there are basically no other competing entertainment options. >> safer: there's not much competition on the road, either. marfa has one stoplight; the next one is 56 miles away. >> bosworth: every now and then, you'll have to wait for, like, five cars. ( laughs ) and you really do find yourself going... >> johnston: "what is going on?" >> bosworth: ...what is going on? >> johnston: who let the traffic out? >> announcer: you are tuned to krts-marfa, 93.5 f.m. >> safer: it's also just about the smallest town anywhere to have its own public radio station. >> tom michael: if cattle could

fill out pledge forms, we would have a station. >> safer: ( laughs ) manager tom michael says, in marfa, public radio is really public. volunteers serve as d.j.s. listeners find themselves on the air. >> michael: you know, we got some great cranks in west texas, sweet curmudgeons. we really love hearing from them. >> safer: tell me about some of them. >> michael: tuggy lancaster, she passed away last year. she would call up and say, "my donkeys want to hear classical and jazz." >> safer: ( laughs ) ellery aufdengarten is a local rancher born and bred in the wide open spaces. >> ellery aufdengarten: i mean, how can you beat this? look. it doesn't get any better than this. >> safer: he might well agree with churchill, who said, there's something about the outside of a horse that's good for the inside of a man. and though he admits to understanding cattle better than understanding modern art, he gives the new artistic marfans a

tip of his stetson. you think it's been good for the town? >> aufdengarten: i would have to say yes. i mean, i... i don't know what it would have looked like if they hadn't come. >> safer: do you mix at all with the artsy people? >> aufdengarten: yeah. yeah. >> safer: what do you make of them? >> aufdengarten: it's kind of like bird watching, sometimes. >> safer: ( laughs ) in a way, all the creative souls who've landed here are the spiritual descendants of this man: the late donald judd, an artist who headed west in the 1970s. >> rob weiner: he wanted to get out of new york city. it had become too claustrophobic, and he wanted to go to a place that was much more open, as far as the landscape was concerned. and he loved the land. >> safer: rob weiner worked for judd, who set up shop on a deserted army base. he's now associate director of a museum housing works by judd and other minimalist artists. >> weiner: judd wanted a kind of museum that would give a different experience of how the

art and the architecture and the landscape work together. >> safer: today, antelope play among judd's boxes. boxes-- little boxes and bigger boxes, boxes all in a row, not made out of ticky-tacky but of concrete. >> joe cabezuela: we don't understand the art. it's different, you know. we're used to portraits of cattle, windmills, cowboys. >> safer: joe cabezuela is a community leader among marfa's hispanics, who make up 75% of the town. it's a place where tolerance once had its limits, depending on which side of the tracks you came from. >> cabezuela: back when i was growing up, a mexican kid couldn't go out with an anglo girl. i mean, it was... you know, they still went out. the parents didn't know about it, but... ( laughs ) >> safer: but these days, anglos, hispanics, tourists and marfans old and new all rub elbows.

>> do you roast the jalapenos? >> no. >> safer: and most everybody agrees the newcomers have given marfa a new face. >> cabezuela: marfa would have been a little old dusty town had they not come in and sort of, like, revived it, you know. >> safer: has the economy improved for the hispanic community? >> cabezuela: it has because of the jobs, i believe. >> safer: and with the artists and the tourist dollars, the town now has not one but two upscale restaurants. at el cosmico, sort of a hip trailer camp, you can sleep in a teepee or an airstream. and if you decide to stay on, you'll quickly learn the basic facts of life in a very small town. number one, be nice. >> nafziger: there's a reliance on other people. you should make sure you're getting along with your neighbor because you'll probably need them. >> safer: number two, everybody knows everybody else's business. >> michael: i mean, the joke is, you don't need to put on your

turn signal because they know where you're going. >> safer: so, no secrets? >> michael: no secrets. >> safer: and number three, no frills. >> weiner: it's still a hardscrabble lifestyle. there's no pharmacy, there's no dry cleaner. it's hard to get things. >> safer: and newcomers can find the wide open spaces claustrophobic and the sound of silence deafening, especially if you're a transplanted new yorker. how often do you have to get out of here? >> weiner: you know, between six and eight weeks, i'm usually ready for a jolt of city life. >> safer: and on your way out of town, you'll want to stop at the most bizarre spot in these parts. there, at sundown, like a desert mirage, is prada marfa. >> boyd elder: there's been people stopping, thinking it's a store, slamming on their brakes. >> safer: it's full of $1,000 italian shoes and $2,000 bags, but the door is always locked. as custodian boyd elder explains, prada marfa is not a store but a statement put up in

the middle of nowhere by two german artists. >> elder: they wanted to see what happened by putting it here, to see if it would stay and to see what the results would be. and they want some kind of, like, public response to their art. >> safer: and they got it. pilgrims to marfa can't resist a snapshot. beyonce, for instance, was swept off her feet; others weren't. >> elder: i mean, it's been vandalized. some people love it, other people hate it. >> safer: what about the folks in marfa? what did they make of it? >> elder: i think a lot of them think it's just a joke. >> safer: what do you consider it to be? >> elder: i consider it to be hilarious. i consider it to be facetious. and i consider it to be neurotic. ( laughs ) >> ♪ texas moon shining bright... ♪ >> safer: and so, we bid a fond farewell to the magic kingdom of marfa. many moons ago, somebody named the place after a heroine in the novel "crime and punishment,"

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