captioning funded by cbs and ford. we go further, so you can. >> jose andres: you have the sea coming, and the river coming. to the devastated island a few days after the storm, to see how he could help. he began doing what he does best. he found a kitchen, bought some ingredients, and began to cook. it's a good thanksgiving story, because that first day andres and his small team made about a thousand meals. ( andres singing ) since then, he's recruited an army of chefs and volunteers, and together they've served more than three million meals to the hungry people of puerto rico. >> pelley: from the looks of it

>> pelley: this is a hospital during the siege of aleppo. from the looks it of, maybe a father, a distraught mother, and a child curled up on a gurney. that was an air strike. this hospital was hit 14 times in six months. >> you work with the understanding that you might >> dr. samer attar: you work with the understanding that you might find yourself dead, or crippled, or dismembered on the floor, next to the people you're trying to save. >> kroft: the isle of eigg is an ungroomed masterpiece of nature too wild to tame. a craggy speck of incredible beauty. >> galli: you know, the people on eigg, i'd have to say, are more evolved. >> kroft: charlie galli, the taxi driver and amateur philosopher, says most people here have done the whole life on the mainland thing and rejected it. you know everybody on the island? >> galli: i know them and their shoe sizes, and like i say, there's no secrets on an island, so... >> kroft: so what are they talking about this week? >> galli: mainly you.

>> i'm steve kroft. >> i'm lesley stahl. >> i'm bill whitaker. >> i'm anderson cooper. >> i'm scott pelley. those stories tonight on "60 minutes." today we're out here to test people's knowledge about type 2 diabetes. so you have type 2 diabetes? yes i do. true or false... type 2 diabetes more than doubles your chance of dying from a cardiovascular event, like a heart attack or a stroke. that can't be true, can it? actually, it is true. and with heart disease, your risk is even higher. in fact, cardiovascular disease is the #1 cause of death for adults with type 2 diabetes and heart disease. but there is good news. jardiance is the only type 2 diabetes pill

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it's the last gift! a note8 with verizon unlimited so tom can apply this, and fix that on the network he deserves- verizon! thanks to the expert service and selection at best buy. open this last. >> cooper: we first met chef jose andres seven years ago in the wildly popular restaurant he'd opened in beverly hills. andres was born in spain, but america is where he became famous for his avant-garde approach to cooking. he has nearly 30 restaurants here, now, but he's barely set

foot in any of them in the past two months-- not since hurricane maria hit puerto rico. andres went to the devastated island a few days after the storm, to see how he could help. he is not a disaster relief expert, so he began doing what he does best. he found a kitchen, bought some ingredients, and began to cook. it's a good thanksgiving story because that first day, andres and his small team made about a thousand meals. since then, he's recruited an army of chefs and volunteers, and together they've served more than three million meals to the hungry people of puerto rico. ( andres singing ) jose andres is always on the move. in the kitchen, which has become his base of operations in san juan, he's a culinary commander rallying his troops. ( andres singing )

preparing meals for so many people is a massive undertaking, requiring trained chefs, thousands of volunteers, assembly lines of sandwiches-- 900 on this table alone. >> jose andres: good ham, good cheese, and a lot of mayo. >> cooper: there's a lot of mayonnaise here. it's all the more remarkable because none of this was set up before jose andres got to puerto rico two months ago. >> andres: i arrive monday, right after the hurricane, and i ask, "who is in charge of feeding the people of puerto rico?" and they told me, "everybody. everybody's in charge." you know, when you have to feed an entire island you need to have one-- one person and one organization responsible. >> cooper: there has to be a plan. >> andres: has to be a plan, and somebody has to be responsible for achieving that plan. >> cooper: andres came up with his own plan to feed as many of the island's nearly 3.5 million people as possible. he started with $10,000 of his own money, in cash, and pockets

full of credit cards. how do you arrive at a place-- you don't know where the food is; you don't know where access to water is. how did it get off the ground here? >> andres: so for me, it was not difficult. the first thing i do-- you're a chef, you go and try to find a tchen. everybody was saying, "there's no food, there's no food." well, that was not true. the big food distribution companies had food, because they had fuel, they had diesel. they kept their refrigerators and the freezers working. >> cooper: there was food here. >> andres: plenty of food. >> cooper: what was the problem? >> andres: the problem was the urgency of "now." it's a very simple thing when you're a cook. when you're hungry, you gather the food, you gather your helpers, you begin cooking, and then you start feeding people. >> cooper: he joined up with a local chef named jose enrique and other volunteers, cooking enormous pans of paella and stews in a parking lot in san juan. it wasn't long before they were

making more than 100,000 meals a day. >> cooper: how did you scale it up that quickly? >> andres: well, you know one thing, when these moments happen, we have a tendency to think, "oh we have to feed three million people." almost, the idea is impossible. >> cooper: it seems overwhelming? >> andres: it's totally overwhelming, but all of a sudden, imagine you begin breaking this. we are going to be doing now 25,000 meals. when you do it well for two days, you increase it to 50,000. and when you do it well, you increase it to 100,000, and all of a sudden, you scale it up in a way that is simple. >> cooper: that's a big pan. >> andres: it's chicken, chickpeas. we try to put good amount of proteins, rice. every puerto rican, i love rice. >> cooper: ingredients are often improvised. they cook whatever they can buy. techniques are improvised as well. jennifer herrera says a prayer for puerto rico as she pours oil into each pan of rice. >> jennifer herrera (/translated/): god bless puerto

rico. god bless puerto rico. >> cooper: the time it takes her to say "god bless puerto rico" is the exact amount of oil she says she needs. how many blessings do you give puerto rico every day? >> herrera: thousands of blessings. >> cooper: with the help of private donations and money from the federal government, joseé andres' non-profit organization "world central kitchen" has prepared more hot meals than any of the other bigger, more experienced disaster relief organizations here, like the salvation army and the red cross. >> cooper: most agencies, if they're giving out food, they're giving out m.r.e.'s or snacks-- or, not hot meals. >> andres: americans should be receiving one plate a day of hot food. that's not too much to ask in america. an m.r.e. is very expensive for the american taxpayer. a hot meal is more affordable-- it's cheaper. it's what people really need, it's what people really want. they feel all of a sudden that you are caring for them-- that america is caring for them.

>> cooper: you're not just giving calories-- you're giving attention to people. >> andres: the calories are obvious, but this is a message of hope. this is a message, "we care, and be patient, things eventually will get better." >> cooper: that message of hope is one andres has been preaching for weeks on social media. >> andres: so great. we got a refrigerator and fresh produce. thank you! thank you! thank you! >> cooper: documenting his efforts to expand operations around the entire island. at the height of the emergency, he had 18 kitchens going at once, and used trucks, cars, and anyone he could find to deliver meals. >> andres: all of a sudden, i have homeland security helping us deliver sandwiches and water in the most difficult areas of the island. i had cooks from the u.s. coast guard helping us, volunteering. we were having so many different men and women, coming from the federal government, helping us.

( rooster crowing ) >> cooper: there are still plenty of places that need the help. in this community an hour south of san juan, there's no electricity. this is the first hot meal this family has eaten in more than two weeks. andres' dedication has inspired others in puerto rico to set up kitchens of their own. in a church perched in the mountains of naguabo, pastor eliomar santana and his parishioners cook hot meals for neighboring communities with the rice, beans, and sausages andres has provided them. >> eliomar santana: we have people here with no water, no-- no lights. they lost everything in their house, and they have stopped thinking on that-- for helping others. >> cooper: so, even though some of your parishioners need help, they're still volunteering here? >> santana: yes, they're still volunteering. >> cooper: they're still trying to help other people? >> santana: they're still trying to help other people. >> cooper: before delivering the food to a nearby housing

project, pastor santana thanks god, and then jose andres. in the church, when you were praying, you thanked god first, and second, you thanked jose andres. >> santana: yes, that's very important. but i have to say, always say god first, then jose. >> cooper: well, jose's in good company. andres' presence has not been without controversy. he's been critical of the federal government's response to the hurricane and, after attending meetings with fema, the federal emergency management agency, he called their headquarters in san juan the most inefficient place on earth. was that the frustration? that it was just bureaucratic? that there were a lot of meetings and you felt like things weren't getting done? >> andres: we were already feeding 100,000 people a day, and i needed their help to make sure we had money to keep buying the food to keep feeding these never-ending needs of people in need. and there is where-- call it red

tape. nothing was happening. >> cooper: fema did award andres' world central kitchen two short-term contracts worth $11.5 million to provide 1.8 million meals, but the agency refused to grant them a third, longer-term contract. andres thinks the overall response to disaster relief needs to change. >> andres: the people of the federal government are great people. but then it's red tape, that sometimes doesn't allow that same people to be successful. i didn't put the name "emergency" in fema. i didn't. but somebody's going to have to tell me the meaning of emergency. to me, when we're talking about food and these-- the little thing i know-- is that emergency in food means one thing. people are hungry, and when you're hungry, it's today. >> cooper: fema says, "look, to negotiate a big contract, there's a bidding process. you have to have three different companies bidding on it. that there's federal government regulations." you say that gets in the way

of...? >> andres: americans in puerto rico were hungry, and we were not delivering food quick enough. and what we did is, we didn't plan. we didn't meet. we began cooking and we began delivering food to the people in need in puerto rico. and what we need to make sure is that next time we are not negotiating contracts. that next time, the federal government is ready to do what they are supposed to do next time something like this happens. maybe an earthquake, maybe another hurricane, or maybe a terrorist attack. we need to make sure we are ready, because the people of america don't deserve anything less. >> cooper: jose andres' passion for disaster relief is a far cry from what excited him when we first met him in his restaurant in beverly hills in 2010. back then he was leading a kind of culinary revolution-- pioneering innovations in molecular gastronomy, marrying science with food in surprising and playful ways.

>> andres: are you ready for this? because, i believe your life is going to change forever-- i mean it. >> cooper: this is going to change my life? >> andres: maybe. okay. ( laughter ) >> cooper: i don't know why i keep doing stories about food, because i don't really eat much and never really think much about food. but it's so interesting to me how, for you, food is at the center of everything. >> andres: anderson, food touches everything. food is in our d.n.a. food touches the economy. food is science. food is romanticism. food is health. food has many of the opportunities to have a better tomorrow. >> cooper: that philosophy is at the heart of andres humanitarian efforts around the globe. he founded world central kitchen after the earthquake in haiti in 2010.

>> andres: i've been here more than 25 times, to haiti. >> cooper: this past june, months before hurricane maria hit puerto rico, we met up with andres in haiti's capital, port-au-prince. he supports an orphanage here and has established a job training program for local chefs. he's also spearheading an effort to reduce the widespread use of charcoal in cooking. long-term exposure to smoke from cooking indoors on fires kills an estimated 4 million people worldwide every year, most of them women and children. andres has provided cleaner- burning propane gas stoves to more than 100 schools in haiti, like this one in port-au-prince. i mean, focusing on stoves, on the idea of clean cook stoves, is not something that a lot of people think about. >> andres: i am a cook. i feed the few, but i've always been super interested in feeding the many. and when i've seen some of these women doing the change from the

charcoal to the gas, everything changes around them. when we see these women cooking in the street with charcoal and we eat the plate of food, we should all be asking ourselves, how that plate of food can really become an agent of change. >> cooper: an agent of change? >> andres: a true agent of change-- one plate at a time. >> cooper: jose andres spent thanksgiving in puerto rico, continuing to feed people one plate at a time. this has been his biggest undertaking thus far. >> andres: every time there is a rainbow, you know things are going to get better. >> cooper: he's scaling back now, as the need for emergency food relief here lessens, but he's already thinking about how he can do it better the next time disaster strikes. it's all pop-culture trivia, but it gets pretty intense.

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>> pelley: bashar al-assad destroyed syria in order to remain its president. the dictator, son of a dictator, has committed every war crime on the books: bombing civilians, gassing neighborhoods, torturing prisoners. an estimated 400,000 people have been killed in the civil war, and 11 million forced from their homes. last december, with his allies russia and iran, assad occupied the ruins of aleppo, syria's largest city. various rebel groups continue to fight, and assad means to break them with another war crime-- the destruction of hospitals. what you are about to see is difficult to watch, but it's worth it, because standing in assad's way are courageous doctors, many of them american volunteers, risking their lives to heal the wounds of war. this is a hospital during the

siege of aleppo. from the looks of it maybe, an exhausted father, a distraught mother and a child, at left, curled up on a gurney. that was an air strike. this hospital was hit 14 times in six months. this is aleppo again, last year. "al jazeera" reporter amro halabi was covering the aftermath of a chemical attack. once the e.r. filled up, the hospital was hit. the nursery was evacuated. then the camera found the neonatal i.c.u.

targeting hospitals is the atrocity that started the geneva conventions 153 years ago, and led to the creation of the red cross. it is the original war crime. since 2011, there have been more than 450 attacks on syrian hospitals. emergency medicine has been driven underground. every neighborhood air strike delivers too many patients, with too little time. doctors improvise with scavenged drugs and salvaged equipment. so many doctors have been killed, or have fled, that

veterinarians and dentists are pressed to do surgery. >> dr. samer attar: you work with the understanding that you might find yourself dead, or crippled, or dismembered on the floor, next to the people you're trying to save. >> pelley: dr. samer attar is a leading orthopedic surgeon from chicago, who volunteers in syria's makeshift hospitals. >> attar: the bombs would land so close, they'd knock you off your feet. and at times, they would directly hit the hospital. but all i did was look around and follow everyone else's lead, because they're like rocks. they don't lose their cool, they don't lose their composure. they just keep working. >> pelley: dr. attar enlisted in the syrian-american medical society, which began in the 1990s as a professional association. but, since the revolution, these american doctors have raised nearly $100 million in aid and

sent more than 100 members into rebel-held syria, including aleppo, where dr. attar worked. >> attar: we'd find ourselves doing surgeries, sometimes without anesthesia, on people lying on gurneys in the hallway, because you're just so over- stretched. >> say hi, everybody. >> pelley: these are dr. attar's pictures of aleppo. >> attar: i remember another child that was brought in, she couldn't have been more than five. her whole body was pockmarked with shrapnel, from her chest to her belly, and one of the surgeons in aleppo, a syrian surgeon, heroically rushed her to the operating room, and opened up her belly, and stopped the bleeding in her liver. but she had lost so much blood. we can't. you can't give all of your blood to save one life, if you can save it to give a little bit each to five, who you know will make it. and i saw that all the time. >> pelley: did that little girl make it? >> attar: that girl? no, she did not. seeing little bodies wrapped in white shrouds-- with the cloth still bleeding, because the

bodies still bleed. they'd be wrapped in white shrouds and just placed outside, to be taken to be buried. >> pelley: six-year-old mohammad kament was destined for a burial shroud, until a syrian surgeon saved his life. >> attar: what is his name? >> pelley: mohammad's house had been hit by a mortar, and he became unforgettable to samer attar. >> attar: i remember him, because he lost his mother and his siblings and both of his legs. the day before i left aleppo, he asked me to bring back robotic legs, prosthetic legs, if i ever returned. and if only it were that simple. he thought that i could deliver them like a pair of gym shoes, and that everything would be back to normal. he'd go back to running around and playing soccer. >> basel termanini: it's the worst humanitarian crisis on our lifetimes, and because those are our own people. >> pelley: basel termanini is vice president of the syrian- american medical society. he's a gastroenterologist in

steubenville, ohio. he told us the society donated 120 ambulances, pays the salaries of nearly 2,000 syrian staff, equips 135 medical facilities and is building more. >> termanini: there have been more than 500 attacks on health care facilities. and we have more than 800 casualties from the staff. so we're trying to move all those facilities underground. >> pelley: did you say 800 medical professionals have been killed in attacks on hospitals? >> termanini: yes. more than 800. i think now it's, the latest is 850. there are attacks on hospitals. people are detained, tortured to death. there are shellings also, mostly air strikes and barrel bombs. this is number one killer for the health staff. >> pelley: who are some of the men and women who work with you inside syria? >> termanini: those are our heroes. they know the risk in their lives, every day risking their family's life. but they know if they migrate

and go out, nobody is willing to provide those services. so then we try to support them. whatever they need, we try to fulfill. what they need, is to know that they are not alone. >> pelley: how many trips in does this make for you? >> attar: this is number four. >> pelley: we traveled into syria with dr. attar. the road to aleppo was in the hands of an islamist rebel group known as ahrar al-sham. our route was through idlib, the last whole province still at war. we found a hospital hit by an air strike, but somehow, still running. on the darkened but functioning side of the hospital, samer attar spotted abdurraham ghanim. they had worked in aleppo before its fall, last december. >> abdurraham ghanim: it was a massacre. >> pelley: a massacre. >> abdurraham ghanim: so much bodies, so much injuries, we did our best.

>> pelley: which is all you can do. >> abdurraham ghanim: yes. it wasn't enough, but what we could do? >> pelley: aleppo's underground hospitals were hard to destroy, so assad tried to root them out by doubling down on his war crimes. we found two witnesses to this. dr. farida, who performs cesareans on wounded women and her husband, dr. abdulkhalek, an eye surgeon. >> dr. abdulkhalek: they couldn't destroy this building, so, they used a chemical weapon. in the last two days of the siege, we noticed the smell of chlorine. and we rushed all of the staff, all the patients, to the inner room in that basement. and during this time, many children came to our hospital, and we had just one remaining bottle of oxygen.

so, we had to transfer the mask between the children, one small amount of oxygen for each other. >> pelley: no one died in the chlorine attack, but the gas shut down the hospital for a time. now, more sophisticated underground hospitals are being built by the syrian-american medical society. in the countryside, they're excavating a cave to replace a regional hospital that serves more than 200,000 people. the operating rooms are where? the cave was already here. the limestone had eroded away over thousands of years. then the engineers came in. they cleared out the cave and they lowered this floor about six feet. when the hospital is finished, it will have three operating rooms, 12 inpatient beds, and a state-of-the-art emergency room.

>> attar: this is much bigger than the basement i worked in, in aleppo. >> pelley: the syrian american medical society has spent more than $3.5 million on cave hospitals. the moneys come from private donations and the united nations. >> fragments from the bomb. >> pelley: bomb fragments, the little white spots? for every life saved-- he's going to need several more surgeries? --there is a lifetime of recovery. so the syrian-american medical society supports this hospital on the syrian border, inside turkey. it is a safe place for long-term healing. >> tamer ghanem: a lot of these patients had very severe injuries such as, you know, severe, very extensive burns. >> pelley: tamer ghanem is a surgeon from detroit who re-sculpts the disfigured. he volunteers, when he can get away, about a week at a time. >> tamer ghanem: one of the most important things is the face, is how people identify themselves.

but there are also functional aspects to that, things like being able to open your mouth so you can get a spoon inside your mouth, so you can feed yourself. >> pelley: what can you do for these people? >> tamer ghanem: it's very rare that one surgery would fix everything. some of the surgeries i cannot do here, just because of limitation of the equipment. some of these injuries are so horrific that, really, you're not able to rebuild the face back again with the tissues that that patient has. >> pelley: it must be frustrating for you to see these patients in so desperate a need, and you not being able to help them. >> tamer ghanem: yes, it's very hard. absolutely. >> pelley: especially the children. >> tamer ghanem: especially, i have my own children, and it's very difficult to see children, you know, with those injuries, and their parents, and how that affects them. >> pelley: one of those injured children in the turkish hospital was mohammad kament, the same boy from aleppo who asked american doctor samer attar for

those robotic legs, three years ago. this was the first time they had seen each other since then. mohammad's prosthetics were supplied by a new hampshire- based charity called "nu day syria." we asked mohammad what he wants to be, but we could have guessed. he wants to be an orthopedic surgeon. i'll bet you'll be a very good doctor. >> mohammad kament: thank you. >> pelley: you understand patients really well. >> kament: thank you. >> pelley: the syrian-american medical society says that, over six years of war, it has delivered 100,000 babies and supported almost 400,000 surgeries. >> attar: what's his name? >> pelley: why risk your life for this? >> attar: well, the syrian nurses, and the doctors, the rescue workers that i met, told me that they would rather risk their lives dying in syria, trying to save lives, than grow

old comfortably from a distance, watching the world fall apart. and i thought, 20 years from now, i didn't want to look back and say that i wasn't a part of that. >> pelley: the war against the hospitals is designed to break the will of the rebellion. but as long as some will fight for mercy, there is reason for all to hope. >> this cbs sports update is brought to you by ford. i'm james brown with scores from the n.f.l. today. tom brady threw four touchdowns as new england won its seventh straight. carolina scored 17 fourth-quarter points to ground the jets. buffalo snapped its three-game skid and proved back into the playoff picture. julio jones caught 12 patses for two scores. atlanta wins and philadelphia ran its league-best win streak

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>> kroft: every now and then, just for the fun of it, we decide to go off to some obscure place that you've never heard of and are not likely to visit. tonight, we're taking you to eigg, or the "people's republic of eigg," as it's jokingly referred to in scotland, a country where half the privately-held land is owned by fewer than 500 people. a lot of it is tied up in huge estates owned by lairds who often run them as fiefdoms. 20 years ago, after two centuries of servility, the people of eigg drove away their laird and seized control of their own destiny, establishing the first community-owned estate in scotland's history. we wanted to see what they've made of it. just three miles wide, six miles long and ten miles off the scottish coast, eigg is part of the inner hebrides, surrounded by the isles of rum, muck and skye at the edge of the north atlantic.

it is an ungroomed masterpiece of nature, too wild to tame. a craggy isle of incredible beauty populated mostly by sheep, and the dogs that keep track of them. the people do their best to stay clear, while taking everything in. so what's your average day like? >> charlie galli: some people would say very lazy. i like to think i just make the hard work look easy. all depends on your outlook. >> kroft: charlie galli is the taxi driver on eigg, and the only source of public transportation up and down the island's furrowed main artery. it's a niche he claimed for himself when he arrived from the mainland with his wife and this aging volvo four years ago. plenty of time to get the feel of the place. you know everybody on the island? >> galli: i know them and their shoe sizes, and like i say, there's no secrets on an island, so... >> kroft: so what are they talking about this week? >> galli: mainly you.

( bagpipes ) >> kroft: it's not like they don't get visitors. 12,000 tourists came here last year, most of them to spend only a few hours. there are very few places to stay. we were going to be here for days, asking questions about eigg's quirky history, and everyone directed us to maggie fyffe, the island secretary, who landed here 41 years ago after touring afghanistan in a camper. >> maggie fyffe: i never imagined that i would spend the rest of my life here. >> kroft: does that mean you like it? >> fyffe: i think so, yeah. ( laughs ) >> kroft: it was 1976, just after the entire island had been purchased by a wealthy english toff named keith schellenberg, who became the seventh laird of eigg. >> keith schellenberg: welcome to eigg. >> kroft: under scotland's feudal landlord system, he had absolute power over virtually every aspect of his estate. what kind of impact did he have on people's lives? >> fyffe: he had that control over everything. and people, jobs, houses. and he wouldn't give anybody a

lease on anything. >> kroft: by all accounts, schellenberg used the island as his personal playground, lavishly entertaining guests, and driving about in a 1927 rolls royce while most of his tenants lived in poverty without electricity. was there a rebellion? >> fyffe: eventually, yep. ( laughs ) >> kroft: it started with a slow burn, that burst into flames one night in 1994, when schellenberg's beloved rolls royce met a fiery end, burnt to a crisp like a slice of bacon under circumstances still unexplained. >> fyffe: a mysterious fire, spontaneous combustion, who knows? >> kroft: so did you ever figure out what happened to the rolls royce? >> fyffe: no. >> kroft: headline writers all over britain couldn't believe their luck. there was "scrambled eigg," "burnt rolls," and "eigg comes to the boil." it went on for a year, until schellenberg gave up, expressing his disdain for the islanders in

this bbc interview. >> schellenberg: i think that my ultimate failure with eigg is that i can't be bothered to try and get on with them anymore. >> kroft: his final act was to sell the island to a wacky german, who called himself "maruma" and claimed to be an artist of note and a professor. he turned out to be neither. up to his beret in debt, maruma stopped paying people's wages, and within two years, creditors put eigg up for auction. maggie fyffe and others thought, why not buy the island for ourselves? >> fyffe: by the time we got to maruma, and two years of somebody that was living in stuttgart and had only visited for four days, it had convinced everybody that we wouldn't have to do very much to do better than what he'd done, which was nothing! ( laughs ) >> kroft: no one in scotland had ever tried a community buyout before, certainly not 64 residents on a depressed, undeveloped island with no cash or credit. but lots of people were familiar with their story, and fancied

the idea of wee folk taking on the big guys. in 1997, a public fundraising campaign brought in $2.5 million to close the deal. the funds came from 10,000 individual contributors, and one huge check from an unknown woman. >> fyffe: the bulk of the money came from a mystery benefactor. >> kroft: a mystery benefactor? sounds like dickens. >> fyffe: it's a pretty crazy story, really. >> kroft: you don't know who she is? >> fyffe: the only string attached was that she remained anonymous. >> kroft: she ever been to the island? >> fyffe: not as far as i know. >> kroft: do you know why she did it? >> fyffe: i think she's given money to a lot of what she regards as good causes, and we're lucky enough to be one of them. ♪ ♪ >> kroft: that was 20 years ago. the eiggers and their friends marked the two decades of self- rule with a big blowout they call a "ceilidh," with traditional music, dancing, and drink.

we decided to cancel the next day's shoot to allow time for recovery, but 24 hours wasn't enough. what time did you leave the ceilidh? >> johnny jobson: it was about 8:00 a.m., i think, when we finally left, yeah. >> kroft: how long did it take you to recover? >> jobson: eh, it'll probably be tomorrow. >> kroft: johnny jobson first experienced eigg in his 20s, working on a fishing boat as a scallop diver. since then, a lot has changed. one, there is electricity now, which allowed him to move his wife and family here last year and edit a sports journal online from their tiny cottage. it's required some sacrifices, but they love the beauty of the place, and its eccentricities. >> jobson: you'll look at the scenery or you'll see a pod of dolphins come through, and you just remind yourself how lucky you are. >> kroft: you seem to have a lot of characters on this island.

>> jobson: yeah. >> kroft: were they normal when they came here? >> jobson: yeah, not all of us. >> kroft: dean wiggin turned up in a kayak 14 years ago, and he's still here. he's very good at fixing things. jobs are extremely scarce, so you have to bring one with you or use your wits to invent one. >> sarah boden: it's one of those places that really gets into your soul, i think. it's quite enchanting. >> kroft: sarah boden runs her uncle's sheep farm on eigg. she grew up here, then left to work as a music journalist in london where she met her future partner, johnny lynch, one of scotland's most popular musicians. she coaxed him to eigg. did you think he was going to come? >> boden: not really, no, because i was living in a caravan at the time and yeah, it was all quite rustic. >> johnny lynch: yeah, you did look a bit shocked. >> boden: and johnny's, you

know, a proper, suburban, city-- >> lynch: what? >> boden: well, you're not a natural country boy, are you? >> lynch: if you mean, i look after my nails, then, then yes, yes i do. but, yeah, i knew from when-- as soon as i got here, i couldn't really see a reason for me to go back. and just look at me now. >> see if you can spell it. >> kroft: when it comes to the essentials on eigg, there is basically one of everything. one primary school for five students. one grocery shop where 100 islanders all choose from the same food. and one pub at the tea room down by the wharf, where the best beer is local. stu mccarthy and gabe mcvarish, who are both married to women who grew up on eigg, got so tired of drinking the mass produced stuff from the mainland they started their own mini micro-brewery two years ago. so this is it. is this legal? stu mccarthy: it's legal. >> gabe mcvarish: it's legal. >> kroft: they make eight different brews, including "i am the eiggman," which is very popular with the tourists.

they're just beginning to turn a profit, but say they've saved a lot of money drinking their own beer. are you the biggest-selling beer on eigg? >> mccarthy: thankfully, yes. yeah, we can say that. >> kroft: none of these younger people would be here without the island's tiny but unique power grid that runs almost entirely on renewable energy, a combination of wind, hydroelectric and solar, the first time it's ever been accomplished anywhere. >> fyffe: that is the biggest and most impressive project that we've done. >> kroft: it's changed everything, right? >> fyffe: oh, yeah. it's made life so much easier. >> kroft: it was designed and funded with multiple grants, mostly from the european union, and engineers from all over the world have come to study it. like everything else on eigg, it is run and maintained by revolving committees of islanders, the only visible sign of any sort of government. there are no offices, no court system, no police. is there any crime on the island?

>> galli: there's no crime or anything. >> kroft: never? >> galli: not that i can remember. >> kroft: nobody's snatched something or borrowed something? >> galli: they borrow it, and you'll get it, usually within the week, you know. returned to you, kind of thing. you just don't know where it is at that point in time, you know, when you're looking for it. but it will turn up again. it can't go anywhere. it's on an island, so, yeah. >> kroft: what happens if somebody gets sick? >> galli: you basically have to be sick on a tuesday. the doctor comes from skye on a tuesday and spends the day here. and that's, sometimes, weather permitting. it's really rough in the wintertime. >> kroft: eigg is dependent on boats for everything. when a ferry comes in with fuel and food, people flock to the wharf to help out. it's not a courtesy. it's a necessity on an island where everyone is more or less scraping by. to survive, they have to rely on each other, look after each other, and put up with each other. the island is too small for feuds or lingering resentments. what's the difference between

people who live on the mainland and people who live on eigg? >> galli: you know, the people on eigg, i'd have to say, are more evolved. >> kroft: charlie galli, the taxi driver and amateur philosopher, says most people here have done the whole life on the mainland thing and rejected it. >> galli: they're all doing their hamster wheel thing, you know. >> kroft: hamster wheel? >> galli: you get a mortgage, you get a car, you get a job. you do this and the next thing. and they all get so involved, they forget to look about them and see what's actually going on in life, you know. ( birds chirping ) >> kroft: you should know, eigg is not always served sunny side up. as the days get shorter, the windy, rainy weather turns to sleet, with gusts up to 100 miles an hour. the boats might not get through for a week, so people keep lots of beans and spam in the storeroom. even the sheep dogs look forlorn. >> boden: if you accidentally open your mouth when a gust of wind's coming, it involuntarily fills your lungs. you're like, ( gasps ).

>> kroft: to live here, you have to be resilient, self sufficient and patient, and not just with the sheep. >> galli: the cows like to go down and lie on the beach, on the sand. and they'll all trail down the road. so you cannot argue with a cow, you know. ( laughs ) it wants to do what it wants to do. and you've just got to give it plenty of time, you know. >> kroft: there are no grand ambitions here and no discernible interest in development despite the sea, the cliffs and the vistas. the owners don't want hotels or a donald trump golf course or hundreds of new residents. >> fyffe: i think we're looking for one or two at a time. i think that's how, how it works here. then it works a lot better. and we've got time to get used to new people. ♪ ♪ >> kroft: we would have liked to stay longer, in this stress- free, non-conflict zone where everyone seems to be more or less on the same page-- but we were out of clean laundry, we had a ferry to catch and hamster

wheels to jump back onto. as for the people of eigg, i don't think they were sad to see us go. >> where to stay when there's no room at the inn? the pods of eigg. go to 60minutesovertime.com. sponsored by pfizer. your body was made for better things than rheumatiod arthritis. before you and your rheumatologist move to another treatment, ask if xeljanz xr is right for you. xeljanz xr is a once-daily pill for adults with moderate to severe ra for whom methotrexate did not work well. it can reduce pain, swelling and further joint damage, even without methotrexate. xeljanz xr can lower your ability to fight infections, including tuberculosis. serious, sometimes fatal infections, lymphoma and other cancers have happened. don't start xeljanz xr if you have an infection. tears in the stomach or intestines,

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>> kroft: fifty seasons of "60 minutes." tonight, from november, 2008, when lesley stahl renewed her acquaintance with rex lewis- clack, whom she'd first met

three years earlier. ♪ ♪ >> kroft: rex was born blind and with severe brain damage, and with a gift that defines a musical savant. ♪ ♪ >> stahl: well, here he is, five years later, at 13, playing debussy for audiences around the county. come and join me. ♪ ♪ >> stahl: in all the years i've known rex, i never thought he'd be able to sit at the piano with me and play an improvised duet, much less enjoy it. >> rex lewis-clack: that was wonderful, lesley. >> kroft: i'm steve kroft. we'll be back next week with a special celebration of 50 years of "60 minutes." ♪

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