captioning funded by cbs and ford. we go further, so you can. >> pelley: the debate about immigration reform and border security is front and center right now. tonight, we'll show you what human smuggling on an industrial scale looks like, along the mexican-american border. ( ticking ) >> whitaker: california suffered its most destructive fire season on record last year. governor jerry brown declared a state of emergency in december as raging wildfires, whipped by fierce santa ana winds, enveloped los angeles in ways people have never seen before. and, as you'll hear, california's governor criticizes

president trump with righteous passion for rejecting the science of climate change that he says is the cause. >> jerry brown: i don't think president trump has the fear of the lord. the fear of the wrath of god. ( ticking ) >> kroft: the isle of eigg is an ungroomed masterpiece of nature, too wild to tame-- a craggy speck of incredible beauty. >> charlie galli: you know, the people on eigg, i'd have to say, are more evolved. >> kroft: charlie galli, the taxi driver and amateur philosopher, says most people here have done the whole life- on-the-mainland thing and rejected it. you know everybody on the island? >> galli: i know them and their shoe sizes. and, like i say, there's no secrets on an island, so... >> kroft: so what are they talking about this week? >> galli: mainly you. ( ticking ) >> i'm steve kroft. >> i'm lesley stahl. >> i'm scott pelley. >> i'm anderson cooper. >> i'm bill whitaker. those stories, tonight, on

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>> pelley: immediately after president trump's inauguration in 2017, arrests of illegal immigrants on the southwest border plummeted to lows that hadn't been seen in years. but three months later, with immigration reform stalled in congress, the numbers started climbing again, and have now returned to average. that comes to about half a million immigrants arrested each year. as we first reported in march, a great deal has changed on the border.

because of increased enforcement and the control of the drug cartels on the mexican side, human smuggling has developed to an industrial scale. illegal immigrants, in the hands of professional smugglers, find themselves trapped in a system of cruelty, neglect and death. there was no reason to notice the trailer in frio county, texas, except for the voice of a woman crying, "we don't want to die." >> (translated ): we don't want to die. >> pelley: in 2015, the sheriff freed 39 men, women, and eyere shedmercome by heat. treatment and, this time, no one died.

18-wheelers packed with people are discovered at a rate of more than 100 a year, just in texas. last july, this one was found in san antonio with well over 100 mexican, and central and south american migrants inside. >> cale chambers: it was eerily quiet. when the doors opened, i expected to see people standing. all we saw was people laying down. >> pelley: paramedic cale chambers reached for unconscious victims. >> chambers: extremely hot to the touch. >> pelley: physically hot to the touch? >> chambers: physically hot to the touch. people at the brink of death, that were at the end of their rope, and then people that were alive, but declining as we were there. >> pelley: you were losing them. >> chambers: sure, yeah. >> pelley: the trailer was designed to be refrigerated, so it was sealed tight. the cooling system was broken.

ten died, including two children. 29 were critically ill. >> jeremy slack: they're doing it out of a sense of desperation. people simply fear for their lives, and they have no other way of surviving. >> pelley: jeremy slack is a researcher, who has spent years interviewing immigrants in mexico. he's a professor at the university of texas, el paso. what is so terrible in central america and in mexico that it drives this migration? >> slack: well, we have intense levels of violence, both in central america and parts of mexico, where the population has been targeted in a way that we had never seen before. issues such as extortion are one of the main drivers for immigration, because gangs and drug cartels start extorting businesses, which eventually leads to the business being forced to close down. and now, not only do people have no economic sustenance, but they also have people trying to kill them. and those two factors are incredible drivers of migration. >> pelley: we met some of the

immigrants when they surrendered to the border patrol. ( speaking spanish ) a 16-year-old girl told us that she was threatened with rape by a gang in el salvador. this boy journeyed 1,000 miles from guatemala, alone, hoping to reach his parents in florida. they ended up in detention, where they can apply for asylum or eventually be deported. this traditional route, over the rio grande river and through the brush on foot, is the path smugglers often use to funnel immigrants to the 18-wheelers on the u.s. side. but many are lost here. >> mike vickers: my wife came home from the grocery store at 5:00 one afternoon. our dogs were playing with something in the yard, and it was a human skull. >> pelley: mike vickers' south texas ranch lies on the smugglers' routes. >> vickers: i probably got 500 pictures of different bodies. we didn't find all of those. some of them were found by ranch

hands, sheriff's department, different people. >> pelley: 500, over what period of time, roughly? >> vickers: since about 2004. >> pelley: what's killing them? >> eddie canales: the heat, and being unprepared. >> pelley: eddie canales works in the same county as mike vickers' ranch. >> he crossed in through piedras negras? >> yes. >> pelley: in 2013, canales founded the south texas human rights center, which helps rescue endangered immigrants, and helps identify the dead. we came across the bodies of two men who apparently froze to death during a cold snap the other day. >> canales: they were young men. they were 18- and 19-year-olds. one was from mexico and one was from el salvador. >> pelley: how often are bodies found around here? >> canales: last year, 61 bodies were recovered. >> pelley: that's the ones you know about. >> canales: that's the ones we know about. the sheriff here will tell you that for every one recovered, there's five still out there. >> pelley: of these survivors, some are led by smugglers to

safe houses, like these on the u.s. side, which were filmed by the border patrol. in days or weeks, their numbers grow, until there is a truckload. the migrants aren't told about the 18-wheelers until it's too late, and then they are forced to board. we wanted to understand their desperation, so we traced a survivor of the fatal san antonio truck 650 miles to his home in aguascalientes, mexico. 42-year-old jorge de santos aguilar was pulled from the truck, unconscious. he was in a coma nearly three weeks, and in the hospital nearly two months. you have a new little boy to support? >> jorge de santos aguilar: si. >> pelley: was he one of the reasons that you went to america? "yes," de santos told us. "i do it for him." nearly half of mexicans live in poverty. de santos is married with three children in a small apartment. in aguascalientes, he can make up to $300 a month, which

doesn't pay the bills. in america, it's $5,000 a month. he's made the trip four times-- worked in a factory, on a hog farm, and helped rebuild new orleans after katrina. for his last, nearly fatal trip, he sold his truck, saved money from his past trips, and paid smugglers $6,500. "it was completely dark," de santos told us about the trailer. "there was no window, there was no light, there was nothing." it's estimated the 100-and-more victims in the back of the san antonio truck, baking in their own heat, pushed the temperature well over 120 degrees, which led to the ten deaths and 29 critically ill. "i heard a lot of people screaming," de santos said. "they wanted water. there were some people saying that they wanted to die. i heard a mom scream for her children."

the torment lasted three hours. "the last thing i remember," he told us, "was calling out to god." is it more dangerous today than ever? >> slack: i would say so. there is so much enforcement in the areas that people were able to cross safely, it has pushed people more and more into places that are dangerous. >> pelley: how much of this illegal immigration is controlled and run by the drug cartels? >> slack: they're kind of the regulatory mechanism. and they essentially set the rules, so to speak, for illegal activities in the region. it has led to this professionalization, this need to collaborate and coordinate with the drug cartels, because they are the ones that are able to control how officials work. they know more about phisticated ways of avoiding apprehension, avoiding enforcement. >> pelley: the drug cartels own

the border. >> slack: definitely. >> pelley: once migrants are over the border, their next challenge is, effectively, a "second border" of federal checkpoints. on major routes, far north of mexico, the border patrol operates a second set of screening stations. we visited one of the busiest, 29 miles north of the border on interstate 35. that truck that was found in san antonio came through here. >> jason owens: it did. >> pelley: jason owens is the deputy chief at the laredo checkpoint. how did it manage to get through? >> owens: it's unfortunate, but the possibility of us catching every single thing to come through this checkpoint is just, is not feasible. >> pelley: the driver had his commercial license revoked. >> owens: yep. >> pelley: he came through here without a license. >> owens: uh-huh. >> pelley: how is that possible? >> owens: so, the agent on primary has just a couple seconds, given the amount of traffic that comes through. and so, the agent, whenever they talked to the driver, didn't have that reasonable suspicion. >> pelley: the x-ray was broken down that day? >> owens: yes.

>> pelley: the border patrol wanted to show us the x-ray machine, but it was broken when we were there, too. >> i'm going to go back and scan the other side. >> yep. >> pelley: when the x-rays work, they illuminate the horror. there were 200 people in this trailer. when hi-tech fails, dog-tech is ever reliable. >> how many? >> two. >> pelley: we watched two illegal immigrants sniffed out from behind the airfoil on the roof of a rig. chief owens told us that they would catch many more trucks, but there are just too many. >> owens: 1.3 million of these vehicles comes through here, just cargo alone, every year. another 1.9 million, passengers. >> pelley: in just this station? >> owens: this checkpoint alone. if this were a port of entry, this would be about the third- busiest port of entry in the entire country. >> pelley: if you checked them all, commerce would stop? >> owens: right. so part of our job at c.b.p. is ite legitimate trade and travel; at the same time,

securing our borders. >> pelley: smugglers recruit american drivers, because they are less suspicious. we wondered how they find willing americans, so we called one. >> this call is from troy dock, an inmate at a federal prison. >> pelley: former truck driver troy dock is in a prison we were not allowed to visit. he told us he crossed the border to see the sights. a man befriended him, and asked dock to smuggle an abused woman and child across the border. after dinner and drinks, the man confessed that what he really wanted was to pay dock $5,000 to transport a dozen illegal immigrants waiting at this safe house in the united states. when dock arrived there, the dozen turned out to be 50. >> pelley: did you have any trouble at the federal checkpoint? >> troy dock: no, they just waved us through. >> pelley: hours later, dock reached dallas, but two of his captives did not. >> dock: they say two of them had passed away from a

heatstroke, and the other one i think was in a coma, or something like that. >> pelley: how long are you supposed to be there in the federal prison now? >> dock: until 2036. >> pelley: the driver in the san antonio deaths, james bradley, pleaded guilty to transporting immigrants resulting in death and was sentenced to life in prison without parole. >> vickers: more border patrol agents. that's what we need here. we need at least another 150 agents here in brooks county. >> pelley: south texans, including mike vickers, are improvising. vickers organized the texas border volunteers-- 300 armed civilians who patrol ranchlands and call in smuggling activity. the volunteers have no legal authority, and they were investigated by the sheriff in 2014 for detaining and tying up illegal immigrants while waiting for the border patrol-- something that vickers says they won't do again. some people watching this interview are saying to themselves right now, "he's an armed vigilante taking the law

in his own hands." >> vickers: we've heard that before. this is a massive invasion. we've been doing this for 11 years, there have been thousands of people that we've reported that otherwise would have gotten in-- came here scot-free. >> pelley: eddie canales, the founder of the south texas human rights center, is focusing on rescue. he's set up more than 100 water stations. you know, there are people who say you're encouraging illegal immigration, by making it possible to get through here. >> canales: well, i don't think i'm the overriding factor of why people come here, you know? there's people that are leaving their countries by being pushed out, you know, and they have no choice. i'm providing humanitarian effort, and, and, you know, so people don't die, and that people don't suffer. >> cbs money watch sponsored by lincoln financial.

no matter who you're responsible for, lincoln can help. >> quijano: good evening. the federal reserve on thursday will release the results offers second round of bank stress tests. walgreens joins the dow jones industrial index on tuesday replacing general electric. and nike, cash central, and bed bath and beyond report earnings this week. i'm elaine key quijano, cbs new.

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>> whitaker: our country is divided between red states and blue states, a division that has intensified since the election of president donald trump. and some of the blue states are intensifying their resistance to the president. most prominently, california, the country's bluest and most populous state, led by governor jerry brown. brown has been governor of california twice-- the first time, 40 years ago. he criticizes the president on taxes. california is suing the trump administration over health care, immigration, and air quality. but nothing raises more righteous passion in jerry brown than the issue of climate change. as we first reported last fall, he castigates the president for denying the science and aggravating a problem governor brown says is causing california to burn.

california suffered its most destructive fire season on record last year. governor jerry brown declared a state of emergency in december as raging wildfires, whipped by fierce santa ana winds and fueled by bone-dry brush, laid waste to tens of thousands of acres in southern california. the smoke plume that shrouded the los angeles area could be seen from space. the fires that ravaged california's famed wine country in october were the deadliest the state has ever seen. whole neighborhoods were incinerated. dozens of people were killed. >> jerry brown: the fire season used to be a few months in the summer. now it's almost year-long. these fires are unprecedented. we've never seen anything like it. scientists are telling us, "this is the kind of stuff that's going to happen." and we've got to deal with it. >> whitaker: it's going to happen, he says, based on science that predicts extreme swings in weather patterns.

last year, southern california experienced record heat in october and november, creating the perfect conditions for this. >> jerry brown: nature is not a political game. nature is the ground on which we stand, it's the air which we breathe. and the truth of the case is that there's too much carbon being emitted, that heat- trapping gasses are building up, the planet is warming, and all hell is breaking loose. >> whitaker: president trump has famously called climate change a "hoax." when he pulled out of the paris climate accord, he said this wasn't a good deal for the united states. >> jerry brown: that's a preposterous idea, not even a shred of truth in that statement. so i'd say to mr. trump, take a deeper look. now is not the time to undo what every country in the world is committed to. >> whitaker: are you fearful? >> jerry brown: oh, yeah, you should-- anyone who isn't is not, not looking at the facts. i don't think president trump has a fear of the lord.

the fear of the wrath of god, which leads one to more humility. and this is such a reckless disregard for the truth and for the existential consequences that can be unleashed. >> whitaker: if he sounds like a jesuit seminarian, it's because he was one, years ago. now, he's a climate missionary, traveling the world, preaching the gospel of renewable energy: at the vatican; in china, where president xi jinping discussed collaborating with california on cutting greenhouse gases. brown went to the global climate summit in bonn, germany, last fall. he and former new york mayor michaebloog led delegation of mayors and legislators representing 40% of the u.s. economy. while the official u.s. delegation, sent by the white house, showed up to promote coal, brown went to tell the world president trump doesn't speak for all americans.

>> jerry brown: california is not waiting for trump. we're not waiting for all the deniers. ( applause ) >> whitaker: he's already weaning california off fossil fuels. to give us a glimpse of the future, brown took us to this 62-acre solar farm near sacramento on the site of a decommissioned nuclear power plant. you said that you want to have 50% of california's electricity generated by renewable sources by-- >> jerry brown: by 2030. >> whitaker: 2030. and you think you're going to beat that? >> jerry brown: yes, no question about it. >> whitaker: with the federal government standing down on climate action, california is blazing its own trail. what can you, the governor of one state in the united states, do to fill in the void? >> jerry brown: as governor of california, we have a cap and trade system, which is a very efficient way to reducing greenhouse gases. we have a zero emission vehicle mandate. we have efficiency standards for our buildings, for our appliances. so california is showing that

dealing with climate is good for the economy, not bad. >> whitaker: california is booming. under brown, it has grown from the ninth largest economy in the world to the fifth. it's now bigger than the u.k., with a budget surplus of more than $8 billion. when you first came into office this time, california faced more than $50 billion in debt and deficits. there were headlines that california was going to be the first "failed state." >> jerry brown: the fact is, we cut the budget, we raised taxes, and the economy roared back. >> whitaker: you cut the budget. you raised taxes. these days, that sounds like a prescription for political suicide? >> jerry brown: you've got to pay some taxes. you have to invest. we need to invest in the technology of tomorrow or somebody else will. and that somebody is china, india, and other countries.

you're not going to poor-mouth yourself to the future. and roads cost money, that's called taxes. r.& d. cost money, colleges cost money-- schools, childcare, all of that. we're a rich country and we can handle it. >> whitaker: but california's economic success has come at a cost. housing prices are through the roof. so are the ranks of the homeless. a quarter of the country's homeless live in california. >> jerry brown: this is not paradise. we have lots of problems. but california is the engine of america, and i like to remind my fellow citizens, when you kind of look askance at this state, you're looking at one of the-- not the only one-- but a major contributor to the well-being of the whole country. >> whitaker: california is vital to the national economy. that's why brown is so angered by the tax overhaul law that was pushed by house and senate republicans. they call it a "tax cut," but brown says by eliminating

deductions for state and local taxes, it actually increases the tax burden on high-tax blue states like california. he and other blue state governors say the bill is retaliation against trump's opponents. brown called it "evil and divisive." do you think the republicans are intentionally trying to punish the blue states that didn't vote for president trump? >> jerry brown: i know this: the republicans have this cult. just like they believe there's no climate problem, they believe that cutting corporate taxes without any money to pay for it, they think it's magic. it'll make everything wonderful. very irresponsible. very dangerous. >> whitaker: but california republicans say brown's tax hikes are irresponsible. in trump's america, jerry brown's california seems far out on the frontier. california doesn't look like the rest of the country. minorities are now the majority of the population. it doesn't act like the rest of

the country. the state voted to legalize recreational marijuana. it will soon offer a third gender choice on drivers' licenses. hillary clinton trounced president trump here by more than four million votes. it seems that california is way out of step with the rest of the country. >> jerry brown: but i'd say we're more in tune with the future than many parts of the rest of the country. >> whitaker: you think the country is going to look more like california in the future? >> jerry brown: i think it will. because i was asking myself, "why did democrats in ohio and wisconsin and michigan, pennsylvania, why'd they vote for trump?" not a lot of them did, but enough to give him those states' electoral votes. >> whitaker: and your answer? >> jerry brown: there's more confidence here; there's less fear. people are looking to the future. they're not scared, they're not going inward, they're not scapegoating, they're not blaming mexican immigrants. they're not blaming the stranger. just the opposite. it's is a place that's alive. it's dynamic.

it's a culture that's on the move. not pulling up the drawbridge out of fear and, and economic insecurity. >> whitaker: jerry brown is california's 39th and oldest governor. when he first held the office in 1975, he had a full head of hair. his father, pat brown, had been governor eight years before. when you look at all the staid portraits of his predecessors in the capitol rotunda, it's obvious jerry brown is not like the others. not many politicians spent four years in the seminary, as brown did in the 1950s. or, dated a rock star. he went out with linda rondstadt in the '70s. >> jerry brown: i've seen a lot of different things. i've worked with mother teresa. i've spent six months doing zen meditation in kamakura, japan, and i've run for president three times. i've done very incompatible things. >> whitaker: people who like you will say that that's evidence of

intellectual flexibility. people who don't like you, say that that's evidence of your being flighty. >> jerry brown: well, i'm not going to-- that's that psychobabble. >> whitaker: whatever you call it, his far-out politics his first time in office earned him the moniker "governor moonbeam." we found him to be down to earth. he's california casual at the office. his dog colusa has the run of the place. are you better at being governor this time? >> jerry brown: yeah, it's a different experience. 79 is not 36. different ball game in every way. so i would say-- i know more, i understand more. >> whitaker: what have you learned about yourself in those intervening years? >> jerry brown: there's something you lose with age, your physical prowess, but mental acuity and-- just, life experience is very important. so, i enjoy the job a lot more.

>> no, c'mon, you know california... >> whitaker: it's hard to see why. his liberal policies make him a punching bag for conservatives, and he's not universally loved by liberals. he's a political maverick. he's rolling back state union pensions. he refuses to curb oil production until there's a viable alternative. a majority of californians like what he's doing, but he's been doing this for almost 50 years, and he says it's time to hang up his political spurs. when he leaves office in january 2019, he swears he's going to leave elective politics behind. i think you're going to miss this. >> jerry brown: no, i won't. >> whitaker: you don't think so? >> jerry brown: next year, i'll be 80, okay? and what do i want to do with my life? that's-- that's my question. >> whitaker: what do you want to do? >> jerry brown: well, i want to spend time with my wife. >> whitaker: a go-it-alone bachelor nearly all of his adult life, jerry brown now has a partner to share his life: anne gust brown, a former executive at the gap. they married in 2005.

their plan is to retire here, to this ranch, in a golden valley north of sacramento. they're building their dream ranch house-- with solar panels, of course. it's off the grid, and way off the beaten path. the governor, and colusa, showed us around. >> she's ready. >> whitaker: this is beautiful, governor. this is pretty steep. >> jerry brown: oh, you haven't seen nothing yet. >> whitaker: he told us he's going out at his peak, stepping away from the fray, on land his great grandfather settled in the 1860s. he said he intends to be a modest rancher. he's going to unplug and unwind. do you think this man sitting next to you is going to be content puttering around-- >> jerry brown: i wouldn't call

it-- >> whitaker: --the ranch? >> jerry brown: --"puttering." i don't "putter." >> anne gust brown: he sure doesn't putter. no. >> whitaker: running-- as he said, running a modest ranch. >> anne gust brown: we both wonder about it. because we've been running a hundred miles an hour, and now we're going to be in a place that's almost the opposite of that, and we'll see. >> jerry brown: yeah, we're out on the frontier, as it were. >> whitaker: and you're going to like that? >> jerry brown: well, i like being on the frontier. that's for sure. >> this cbs sports update is brought to you by the lincoln motor company. bubba watson won for the third time this year, shooting a final round 63 at the travelers championship in connecticut. it's his third win of the season. in world cup soccer action. kane scored a hat trick to put england through to the round of 16 while senegal and japan played to a draw and colombia was victorious. for 24/7news and highlight, visit cbssportshq.com. jim nantz reporting.

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(sound of footsteps) (sound of car door opening) (car door closes) (sound of engine starting) >> kroft: every now and then, just for the fun of it, we decide to go off to some really obscure place that you've never

heard of and are not likely to visit. last november, we took you to the isle of eigg. if you missed that trip, we are going back tonight to eigg, or the people's republic of eigg, as it's jokingly referred to in scotland, which is a country where half the privately-held land is owned by fewer than 500 people. a lot of it is tied up in huge estates owned by lairds who often run them as fiefdoms. 20 years ago, after two centuries of servility, the people of eigg drove away their laird and seized control of their own destiny, establishing the first community-owned estate in scotland's history. we wanted to see what they've made of it. just three miles wide, six miles long, and ten miles off the scottish coast, eigg is part of the inner hebrides, surrounded by the isles of rum, muck, and skye at the edge of the north atlantic. it's an ungroomed masterpiece of nature, too wild to tame.

a craggy isle of incredible beauty populated mostly by sheep and the dogs that keep track of them. the people do their best to stay clear while taking everything in. so, what's your average day like? >> charlie galli: some people would say very lazy. i like to think i just make the hard work look easy. all depends on your outlook. >> kroft: charlie galli is the taxi driver on eigg, and the only source of public transportation up and down the island's furrowed main artery. it's a niche he claimed for himself when he arrived from the mainland with his wife and this aging volvo four years ago. plenty of time to get the feel of the place. you know everybody on the island? >> galli: i know them and their shoe sizes. and like i say, there's no secrets on an island, so... >> kroft: so what are they talking about this week? >> galli: mainly you. ( bagpipes )

>> kroft: it's not like they don't get visitors. 12,000 tourists came here last year, most of them to spend only a few hours. there are very few places to stay. we were going to be here for days, asking questions about eigg's quirky history, and everyone directed us to maggie fyffe, the island secretary, who landed here 41 years ago, after touring afghanistan in a camper. >> maggie fyffe: i never imagined that i would spend the rest of my life here. >> kroft: does that mean you like it? >> fyffe: i think so, yeah. ( laughs ) >> kroft: it was 1976, just after the entire island had been purchased by a wealthy english toff named keith schellenberg, who became the seventh laird of eigg. >> keith schellenberg: welcome to eigg. >> kroft: under scotland's feudal landlord system, he had absolute power over virtually every aspect of his estate. what kind of impact did he have on people's lives? >> fyffe: he had that control over everything. and people, jobs, houses. and he wouldn't give anybody a lease on anything. >> kroft: by all accounts,

schellenberg used the island as his personal playground, lavishly entertaining guests, and driving about in a 1927 rolls royce while most of his tenants lived in poverty without electricity. was there a rebellion? >> fyffe: eventually, yep. ( laughs ) >> kroft: it started with a slow burn, that burst into flames one night in 1994, when schellenberg's beloved rolls royce met a fiery end, burnt to a crisp like a slice of bacon under circumstances still unexplained. >> fyffe: a mysterious fire, spontaneous combustion, who knows? >> kroft: so did you ever figure out what happened to the rolls royce? >> fyffe: no. >> kroft: headline writers all over britain couldn't believe their luck. there was "scrambled eigg," "burnt rolls," and "eigg comes to the boil." it went on for a year, until schellenberg gave up, expressing his disdain for the islanders in this bbc interview.

>> schellenberg: i think that my ultimate failure with eigg is that i can't be bothered to try and get on with them anymore. >> kroft: his final act was to sell the island to a wacky german, who called himself maruma and claimed to be an artist of note and a professor. he turned out to be neither. up to his beret in debt, maruma stopped paying people's wages, and within two years, creditors put eigg up for auction. maggie fyffe and others thought, why not buy the island for ourselves? >> fyffe: by the time we got to maruma, and two years of somebody that was living in stuttgart and had only visited for four days, it had convinced everybody that we wouldn't have to do very much to do better than what he'd done, which was nothing! ( laughs ) >> kroft: no one in scotland had ever tried a community buyout before. certaiy r it. but lots of people were familiar with their story, and fancied

the idea of wee folk taking on the big guys. in 1997, a public fundraising campaign brought in $2.5 million to close the deal. the funds came from 10,000 individual contributors, and one huge check from an unknown woman. >> fyffe: the bulk of the money came from a mystery benefactor. >> kroft: a mystery benefactor? sounds like dickens. >> fyffe: it's a pretty crazy story, really. >> kroft: you don't know who she is? >> fyffe: the only string attached was that she remained anonymous. >> kroft: she ever been to the island? >> fyffe: not as far as i know. >> kroft: do you kwhshe did it? >> fyffe: i think she's given money to a lot of what she regards as good causes, and we're lucky enough to be one of them. ( laughs ) ♪ ♪ >> kroft: that was 20 years ago. the eiggers and their friends marked the two decades of self- rule with a big blowout they call a ceilidh, with traditional music, dancing, and drink.

we decided to cancel the next day's shoot to allow time for recovery, but 24 hours wasn't enough. what time did you leave the ceilidh? >> johnny jobson: it was about 8:00 a.m., i think, when we finally left, yeah. >> kroft: how long did it take you to recover? >> jobson: eh, it'll probably be tomorrow. >> kroft: johnny jobson first experienced eigg in his 20s, working on a fishing boat as a scallop diver. since then, a lot has changed. one, there is electricity now, which allowed him to move his wife and family here last year and edit a sports journal online from their tiny cottage. it's required some sacrifices, but they love the beauty of the place, and its eccentricities. >> jobson: you'll look at the scenery or you'll see a pod of dolphins come through, and you just remind yourself how lucky you are. >> kroft: you seem to have a lot of characters on this island. >> jobson: yeah.

>> kroft: were they normal when they came here? >> jobson: ( laughs ) yeah, not all of us. >> kroft: dean wiggin turned up in a kayak 14 years ago, and he's still here. he's very good at fixing things. jobs are extremely scarce, so you have to bring one with you or use your wits to invent one. >> sarah boden: it's one of those places that really gets into your soul, i think. it's quite enchanting. >> kroft: sarah boden runs her uncle's sheep farm on eigg. she grew up here, then left to work as a music journalist in london, where she met her future partner, johnny lynch, one of scotland's most popular musicians. she coaxed him to eigg. did you think he was going to come? >> boden: not really! no, because i was living in a caravan at the time and yeah, it was all quite rustic. >> johnny lynch: yeah, you did look a bit shocked. >> boden: and johnny's, you know, a proper, suburban, city--

>> lynch: what? >> boden: well, you're not a natural country boy, are you? >> lynch: if you mean, i look after my nails, then, then yes, yes i do. but, yeah, i knew from when-- as soon as i got here, i couldn't really see a reason for me to go back. and just look at me now. ( laughs ) >> see if you can spell it. >> kroft: when it comes to the essentials on eigg, there is basically one of everything. one primary school for five students. one grocery shop where 100 islanders all choose from the same food. and one pub at the tea room down by the wharf, where the best beer is local. stu mccarthy and gabe mcvarish, who are both married to women who grew up on eigg, got so tired of drinking the mass- produced stuff from the mainland they started their own mini micro-brewery two years ago. so this is it. is this legal? >> stu mccarthy: it's legal. >> gabe mcvarish: it's legal. >> kroft: they make eight different brews, including "i am the eiggman," which is very popular with the tourists.

they're just beginning to turn a profit, but say they've saved a lot of money drinking their own beer. are you the biggest-selling beer on eigg? >> mccarthy: ( laughs ) thankfully, yes. yeah, we can say that.ger people would be here without the island's tiny but unique power grid that runs almost entirely on renewable energy, a combination of wind, hydroelectric, and solar, the first time it's ever been accomplished anywhere. >> fyffe: that is the biggest and most impressive project that we've done. >> kroft: it's changed everything, right? >> fyffe: oh, yeah. it's made life so much easier. >> kroft: it was designed and funded with multiple grants, mostly from theuropean union, and engineers from all over the world have come to study it. like everything else on eigg, it is run and maintained by revolving committees of islanders, the only visible sign of any sort of government. there are no offices, no court system, no police. is there any crime on the island? >> galli: there's no crime or anything.

>> kroft: never? >> galli: not that i can remember. >> kroft: nobody's snatched something or borrowed something? >> galli: they borrow it, and you'll get it, usually within the week, you know. returned to you, kind of thing. you just don't know where it is at that point in time, you know, when you're looking for it. but it will turn up again. it can't go anywhere. it's on an island, so, yeah. >> kroft: what happens if somebody gets sick? >> galli: you basically have to be sick on a tuesday. the doctor comes from skye on a tuesday and spends the day here. and that's, sometimes, weather permitting. it's really rough in the wintertime. >> kroft: eigg is dependent on boats for everything. when a ferry comes in with fuel and food, people flock to the wharf to help out. it's not a courtesy. it's a necessity on an island where everyone is more or less scraping by. to survive, they have to rely on each other, look after each other, and put up with each other. the island is too small for feuds or lingering resentments. what's the difference between people who live on the mainland , >>alu gyoho live on eigg?

owon eknigg,pe i'd hthave to sae more evolved. >> kroft: charlie galli, the taxi driver and amateur philosopher, says most people here have done the whole life- on-the-mainland thing and rejected it. >> galli: they're all doing their hamster wheel thing, you know. >> kroft: hamster wheel? >> galli: yeah, you get a mortgage, you get a car, you get a job. you do this and the next thing. and they all get so involved, they forget to look about them and see what's actually going on in life, you know. ( birds chirping ) >> kroft: you should know, eigg is not always served sunny side up. as the days get shorter, the windy, rainy weather turns to sleet, with gusts up to 100 miles an hour. the boats might not get through for a week, so people keep lots of beans and spam in the storeroom. even the sheep dogs look forlorn. >> boden: if you accidentally open your mouth when a gust of wind's coming, it involuntarily fills your lungs. you're like, ( gasps ). >> kroft: to live here, you have

to be resilient, self sufficient and patien ( honking ) and not just with the sheep. >> galli: the cows like to go down and lie on the beach, on the sand. and they'll all trail down the road. so you cannot argue with a cow, you know. ( laughs ) it wants to do what it wants to do. and you've just got to give it plenty of time, you know. >> kroft: there are no grand ambitions here and no discernible interest in development, despite the sea, the cliffs, and the vistas. the owners don't want hotels or a donald trump golf course or hundreds of new residents. >> fyffe: i think we're looking for one or two at a time. i think that's how, how it works here. then it works a lot better. and we've got time to get used to new people. ( laughs ) ♪ ♪ >> kroft: we would have liked to stay longer, in this stress- free, non-conflict zone where everyone seems to be more or less on the same page-- but we were out of clean laundry, we had a ferry to catch, and

hamster wheels to jump back onto. as for the people of eigg, i don't think they were sad to see us go. >> where to stay when there's no room at the inn? the pods of eigg. go to 60minutesovertime.com. sponsored by ibrance. alice is living with metastatic breast cancer, which is breast cancer that has spread to other parts of her body. she's also taking prescription ibrance with an aromatase inhibitor, which is for postmenopausal women with hormone receptor-positive her2- metastatic breast cancer as the first hormonal based therapy. ibrance plus letrozole was significantly more effective at delaying disease progression versus letrozole. patients taking ibrance can develop low white blood cell counts, which may cause serious infections

that can lead to death. before taking ibrance, tell your doctor if you have fever, chills, or other signs of infection, liver or kidney problems, are pregnant, breastfeeding, or plan to become pregnant. common side effects include low red blood cell and low platelet counts, infections, tiredness, nausea, sore mouth, abnormalities in liver blood tests, diarrhea, hair thinning or loss, vomiting, rash, and loss of appetite. alice calls it her new normal because a lot has changed, but a lot hasn't. ask your doctor about ibrance. the #1 prescribed fda-approved oral combination treatment for hr+/her2- mbc.

>> pelley: i'm scott pelley. we'll be back next week with another edition of "60 minutes." tomorrow, be sure to watch "cbs this morning." still a chance here.

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previously on instinct: i want to go see a friend who may be able to help. wait. i'll drive. he works undercover. (rings doorbell) i'll take whatever you can get on the victims. where did you find out all this? does it matter. of... it matters if i want to get a warrant to back up these rumors. you know things you're not telling me. but these are my cases. and, uh, if i were to call, what would i call you? julian. oh, no. no! no, no, please. please don't do it! oh! (audience laughing, murmuring) that last scene scared me to death.