captioning sponsored by wnet >> sreenivasan: on this edition for sunday, ptember 8: president trump says he canceled a secret meeting with the taliban. the latestn the aftermath of hurricane dorian. and, in our signature segment: tackling the norms of masculinity.on next, bs newshour weekend. >> pbs newshour weekend is made possible by: bernard and irene schwartz. sue and edgar wachenheim iii. the cheryl and philip milstein family. the j.p.b. foundation. rolind p. walter, in memor of george o'neil. barbara pe zuckerberg. corporate funding is provided by mutual of america--

designing cuomized individual and group retirement products. that's why we're your retirement company. provided by:port has been and by the corporation for public broadcasting. a private corporation funded by the american people. and by contributions to your pbs station from viewers like you. thank u. from the tisch wnet studios at lincoln centern new york, ri sreenivasan. >> sreenivasan: good evening,an thanks for joining us. a possible peace deal between the u.s. and the taliban, thatle coul to the withdrawal of u.s. troops from afghanistan, ended abruptly last night when series of surprisiets. issued a after months of negotiations, the president tweeted, "unbeknownst to almost eveone, the major taliban leaders and, separately, the president of afghanistan, were going to secretly meet wigo me da camp d on sunday." he then "called off" more negotiations. mr. trump said he was cancelinge

all talks use the taliban admitted to a suicide car bombing on thursday ar the u.s. embas in kabul that killed a u.s. soldier and 11 others. the body of sergeant first class elis barreto ortiz was returned last night. mpsecretary of state mike attended the ceremony at dover air force base. ortiwas the fourth u.s. service member killed in afghanistan in the past two weeks. this morni on the sunday tv talk shows, pompeo defended the president's decision to call off the peace talks. >> when the taliban tried to gain a negotiating aantage by conducting terror attacks inside of the country, president trump made the right decision to say that's not going to work.oi we are to walk away from a deal, if others try to use violence to achieve better ends in the negotiations.it not right. it's not appropriate. it killed an american, and i made no sense for the taliban to be rewarded for that kind of bad behavior. >> sreenivasan: joining us now from ahanistan via skype is craig nelson, kabul bureau chief

for the "wall streetournal." craig, were you surprise by the president's tweet? >> yes, very. president trump has sort of steered clear of the afghan peace process quite a bit. cas a candidate he of, orse said he would like to see u.s. troops out of th but since the peace process sort of got started and the u.s. strted direct talks with the taliban last summer, he has madcae onal comments but he has generally steered clear.. so that was a pretty-- that was shocking. >> what about the parties involved that you have been able to touch base witreh. hey planning on having a meeting the taliban has said that they had received invitation from president trump last month to come to washington to visit. the taliban didn't specify a date today. the afghan government sort of leaked information on frday suggesting that they were tbg to go to washington. they made no-- ere was no indication at all that they were s ing to meet with president trump and there no indication that they were going so obviously when is a

camp david event, that's a very, very big deal. and president trump obviously wanted ty sort of trto bridge the differences and push this u.s. taliban agreement over the line. obviously somethinhas happened. the single american deatfrom a suicide bombing on thursday here ty cab ul seems like a pret flimsy pretext to call off the gotiations as you well-known there are frequent bombings here. we have had ateast 14 u.s. soldiers killed this year so far. so obviously something else is at play here and thwhite hous hasn't said exactly what that is. >> how were the talks progressing? i mean over the past couple of months we have heard they are getting closer and clo wser. whre the final sticking points. >> we were there. we were therenre sunday. the u.s., the u.s. chief, chief u.s. negotiator to the u.s. taliban talks that have been

taking place in qatar said that after nine rounds of talks he tweetethat we are at the threshhold. and all that was needed at that point a weekgo was president trump to sign off. the ambassador, came to cab ul. -- kabul. here he was exor yaited by afghan andfficials and the president of afghanistan who feel that they resent that they who feel that they are nottalks, getting adequate security guarantees from the taiban. and he had a very, very rough week here. he reaurned to tlk to the taliban on friday. and then bingo, the tweet dropped. >> is there any ho>>pe of salvaging these krvetions? i mean this see to undercut the work that azad has been doing for months. >> remarkable. year.e been at it for about a an important stepping stoppne end this nearly 18 year wart to

which is america's longest war. he was almo there. so st a real big setback. don't think anyone thinksin now, certainly the consensus ishat there is no military victory here ifgn ahanistan. the u.s. and taliban have both conceded that no side is going to win. the talin controls mtaore territory in oof began stand than they have since the u.s. invasion in 2001. so the prospect of militaryor viis gone. they are going to have to talk. they are going to have to come back to the table at some point. >>. in under what circumstances, how many people are to die in the mean time, that's the question. >> craig nelson, "the wall street journal" kabul bureau chief joining us live tonight, thanks so much. >> you're welcome. >> sreenivasan: the stm that was hurricane dorian made one moreandfall yesterday, striking eastern canada.

in halifax, a construction crane collapsed from winds that toppes 90 miles per hour. the canadian military was deployed to help clear roads and restore power hundreds of thousands of homes and businesses throughout nova scotia. in the bahamas, where dorian hit the northern islands as a category five hurricane last week, official say the death toll of more than 40 people is expected to rise. evacuations continue, with ferries bringing sur from the hard-hit abaco islands to the bahamas capital city of nassau. a cargo ship with a crew of 24 on board overturned and caught fire as it left the port of brunswick in georgia late last the u.s. coast guard rescued all but four of those on board after receiving a 911 call that the 656-foot vehicle carrier, "l"the ray," was listing heavily in saint simon's sound. other vessels are not lowed within a half mile of the ship, while an investi ftion and sear the missing crew demonstrators in hng marched to the u.s. consulate today to ask president donald trump to liberate the semi-to l autonomous territory from ina. thounds joined the peaceful march and chanted "resist

beijing" wle waving american flags and singing the star- spangled banner. they urged washington to pass a bill called the"hong kong democratic and human rights ac"" ons onould impose sanc officials who suppress human rights. violence broke out later ia business district and police fired tear gas at protesters who vandalized subway stations, seta fires, and blocked traffic.th former sarolina governor and congress member mark sanford became the third challenger to presidt trump for the publican nomination in 2020. sanford announced his run on fox news suny, saying "the republican party has lost its way." and the other challenge face an uphill battle for delegates, as states including south carolinancave already ed their republican primaries and caucuses. th parties have cancelle primaries and causes in the past when an incumbent president is running for a second term. >> sreenivasan: the subject ofma

ulinity is a topic of conversation these days. it's something you see from thee op-ed of newspapers to shaving commercials. >> bullying. >> the "me too" movement against sexual harassment. >> toxic masculinity. >> is this the best a man can get? >> sreenivasan: those who think masculinity is under assault criticized that ad. some even vowed to boycott the company. but others applauded it. there is an effort underway to change the ways of the american male. you can find it on the football field, in the mosh pit, anin the work of the american psychological association. newshour weekend's chrispher booker explains. (♪ hard rock music playing ♪) >> reporter: the rhythm is t violent. ♪ they laugh at me when i run i waste away for fun ♪ >> reporter: and the pace is menacing. ♪ i am my father's son his shadow weighs a ton ♪ >> reporter: but there is a contradiction running through the songs of the british band, idles. the sound may be hard, but it is driven by compassion, an

unrelenting celebration of vulnerability, acceptance and mindlness, all performed wit the intensity of a freight train. ♪ ♪ tonight, the band is playing for people-out crowd of 50 in albany, new york. joe talbot is the lead singer, and band's principal lyricist. >> it's a purposeful journey we're going on. >> reporter: what is the-- the purpose? >> to start a copuersation, i think. i think any good art startson conversatiit doesn't end it. >> reporter: the conversation ales is looking to start complicated one. but at its core, they are asking the audience-- partilarly the men in the crowd-- to reconsider how they they treat women, and how they treat themselves. >> if u share your feelings, your load gets lighter, and you will have a tter outcome. >> reporter: throughout their performance, talbot takes aim a whates as the traps of

masculinity-- how boys are taught to be tough and told to swallow their emotions. ♪ man up, sit down chin up, pipe down ♪ socks up, don't cry drink up, just lie ♪ a reporter: were these the kind of words you heaa young kid growing up in england?no >> yeah, you just pull your socks up, don't cry. all that stuff is completely norm and normalized. i was definitely part of that machismo, part of that... discourse of sucking it up, and you know, being tough. >> reporter: talbot says being taught to suppress his feelings disulittle to help with what was to come his way. ♪ my mother worked 15 hours five days a week ♪ep >> rter: at 16, his mother had a stroke and was paralyzed. and aftes step-father died, he became her primary caretaker.

despite being taught to be tough, talbot wasn't prepared for his mother's death in 2015. her passing was followed two years later by the stillbirth of his daughter. >>yfter my mum died, before daughter died, and i was just struggling to y all these things that i have never said. i was like, why havet i ever said them? that's mental. >> reporter: this is when talbot decided to start therapy. >> and i just crumbled. so i realized i had a lot of learning to do and it was theav best thing iever done in my life. >> reporter: and-- and so, do you performances and the experience of playing with a band like this, is it a form of catharsis? >> yeah. learning how to channel my feelings with behavior and art.a mindfulness. prticing-- ( sighs ) self-respect and outward respect and learning how to create a new

language within myself where i can live a better li and through.what i was going >> reporter: research is t increasingly showing talis correct. learning to be in touch withio one's em can change lives, and the way men are traditionally taught to hold them in may be connected to an avalanche of unhealthy outcomes. in 2018, the americanlo psyccal association published the a.p.a. guidelinesh for psychological practice with boys and men. the first report of its kind, the collected research found that "traditional masculinity, marked by stoicism, competitiveness, dominance and aggression, is, on the whole, harmful." written over 13 years, and basee on 4s of compiled research, the report lays out some striking mental and physical health disparities between men and women. men are 3.5 times more likely to heart disease and cancer at from

rates 50% and 80% higher than women. >> we know that men, on average, die five to six years earlier than do women. >> reporter: psychologist christopher liang is the chairperson of lehigh university's college of education, and was a co-author of the.p.a. guidel >> when boys are not allowed to express their sadness, their hurts-- when they're growing up, they're essentially taught that they shouldn't have pain. and what that does over time is it creates a condition where boys who are becoming men stuff their pain. and so the document seeks to lp people understand onent pol pathway for how menn a come to such greater risk for experiencing greater health problems-- physical health problems and mental health problems. >> we don't have to hide from it.as it is okay tfor help. we don't always have to be stoic

and hold it in. it's okay. as>> reporter: ted bunch hiven this talk hundreds of times befo, to everyone from n.f.l tes to law enforcement agencies. and today,e is speaking to miami university of ohio's men's football team. re there's a lot of pressure on athletes and the not expected to ask for help. and they're, you know, you don't want to do anything that going to make you look weak in the eyes of other players, coaches, anything. if take these boundaries off, then there's all these doors that open.te >> repor a co-founder of "a call to men," a non-profit violence prevention organization, bunch works to train and educate men and boys to erace what he calls "healthy and respectful manhood." >> when we experience other things like disappointment, sadness, hurt, and pain, and we were that little boy who wanted to express that, like by crying, >> stop crying?ld? >> stop crying. what else were we told? >> suck it up? >> suck it up. what else were we told? >> don't show it.on >> d show it. that's right. we were told all those things.

>> reporter: but the emphasis isn't solely on expanding the emotional range of men. it's also focused on how male socialization can be harmful to women. >> we're taught th women and girls have less value than men and boys, right? we give those messages all the time. saying tngs like, "you throw like a girl." l what does thattle boy leave that interaction thinking, girls are equal to him or less thanlkim? when we bout domestic ence and sexual assault- well, most of domestic violence and sexual assault is perprated by men, that's tru most of it's done by men, but most men d't do it. but we are silent about those that do, and that is much of the problem as the violence is.ma does tha sense, folks? >> reporter: bunch believes the opportunity for change inow. >> we're the first generation of men being held accountable for something men ve always gotten away with. and we are going to deconstruct manhood. we are going to deconstr gt it, we ang to lift it up. right, because this is not an indictment on manhd. it's actually annvitation to men. >> reporter: that seems like a remarkably difficult task to ask

within the context of the american folklore. thinking about the american st, john wayne, all these ideas of self-made, self-driven exisnce. >> yeah. >> reporter: it's in our d.n.a., for lack of a better term. >> in our social d.n.a. but what we're wanting, for boys and men, is for them t understand that self reliance is good. it is healthy. it is important. but they don need to conform to it so rigidly that they can's for help when they need to. >> reporter: and this is what idles is bringing to its audience night after night. a celebration the relief that can come from letting go ( hard rock music playing ) two days after their show in albany, the band is in brooklyn, playing another sold-out show, this time for 1,800 people. ♪ ♪ aying that, like, you can't be masculine now.

just allow yourself the room toi en to yourself and breathe, and find out who you actually are. >> reporter: however you define found an audience. idles has they were nominated as the best british breakout artist for this year's brit awards. earlier in the summer, they played in chicago at the lollapalooza festival. and in june, they played the t largest gig ir careers at glastonbury, england's annual mega festival that huats over 200,000 people. >> the feeling-- i-- i cannot explain to someone theit physicaly of alleviating that pain, of just talking about your feelings. it life-changing. it is. sreenivasan: it's new york fashion week, where designers'st

laollections are on full display for the industry, the press and the public. but esth global concerns over the environmental impact and cheap labor involved in clothing production, there's a growing movement by some in the industry away from "fast fashion." i recently spoke with dana thomas, author of"no fashlis: the price of fast fashion and the future of clothes." >> "fast fashion" is trendy clothes made at fast-- in vast at rock bottom prices ined, sold thousands of stores worldwide. they knock off the fashion-- the you cheap versions.rs, and give but they specialize in volume. their business model is abt economies of scale. and because of it, we are awash with clothes. >> sreenivasan: and what, what kind of stores are we talking about? >> like zara, h&m and top shop and mango, and forever 21, which is teetering on bankruptcy. so it's kind of proving that this model may not be the best business model. >> sreenivasan: and how quickly are they cycling through an inventory, or a fashion? how quickly does it go from theh

that's making it to the store shelf? >> within weeks, a couple of weeks. twthink zara has it down t weeks now, which brings and more often.the store more at one point, zara-- >> sreenivasan: and they spend more. >> and they spend mo. you know, the average store maybe you gets in there four or five times a year, and zara will get you in there two dozen a year, because you want to keep seeing what the new thing is. >> sreenivasan: so if it's onlyw weeks between the time thatwe it's made to the time that it's in store, that means somebody's working some serious overtime hours to try to get that fashion ready. >>ut absy. and often they're not paid for that overtime. and what's more, they're paid barely a livetg wage. if sng costs $19.99, rule p thumb is, it probably was, it probably was-- tson who made it was paid 19 cents since, and that happens in places like bangladesh and the philippines and etnam. but it also happens in downtown los angeles. we have sweat shops here in america that are filth workers who are undocumented immigrants, and they're run by, you know, overlos, and they aren't paid for their overtime, and sometimes they aren't even paid for their real work. this most recent wos has spurned

capitalizing on these market forces, and finding chovp labor seas? >> well, it all started with nafta, really. i mean, it's been going on forever. o we've beshoring and looking for the cheapest price to make clothes since the industrial revolution began inea manchester 250 ago. that's the business model, as it was founded by richa arkwright, right then and there en we kicked off the industrial revolution. and cotton-opolis. that's where i got the name, the title of the book. and, you know, it's always been that way. "oliver twist." dickens, you know, talked about it then. and angles. frederick angl wrote about it in the working class. and, we have the tazreen fire 100 years ago-- or the triangle shirtwaist factory fire 100 years ago, and we had tazreen, you know, five or six years ago. so these things still go on. this is how it's always been. the garment indury is mething that moves around to finding the cheapest labor. right now, the hottest market ia ethiwhere workers are paid $24 a month to make your clothes.an >> sreenivnow, is that a living wage in ethiopia?

>> no, it is not. >> sreenivasan: no. so this is a job, but not necessarily a job that's going to help them to have sustainable life in any way. >> no. a lot of people argue that these ofbs are pulling people ou poverty, and what they're doing is really pulling people from ex ieme poverty, but sti poverty. you know, it's just half a step up, 's still a pretty miserable li.mi and they feel trapped in these jobs. often they're advaed money, or they can't get out because they can't get another job, a they're not making ends meet. so they have to work three or four. they're working themselves to the bone. and the people who own these companies are among the richest people in the world. the owr of zara is-- was, at one point, number two, after bill gates, with a wealth of $68 billion. soyou know, it's, it's kind of a pitalism-run-amok businesss model, where try elite get very, very rich, on the backs and thfingers of the very, very poor. >> sreenivasan: to watch

our extended interview with author dana thomas, visit www.pbs.org/newshour. >> sreenivasan: so, you know,oo when youat the kind of fashion issue going forward, who arthe disruptors? what are they trying to do toen prsome of this? >> well, there's some very cool disruptors. some are in licon valley, somere are hen new york city.it one is called modern meadow, ane they're growinher-like material in labs. they're coding the d.n.a., and it's called bio-fabricated material but it looks and feels-- it, you know, in its science, if you loe, at it through a microsc it is leather. but you can't call it leather if it doesn't come from an animal. and, that could, you know, real replace industrial farming, w is horribly polluting on many levels. >> sreenivasan: so what is mething that a simple kind of ond consumer can do to try

decrease their contribution to this industry in the way that it is now? >> well, i think, shop less and burn through clothes less.en the average gais worn seven times before it's thrown away, and in china, i heard it zys three times. that's kind of cthat we have this sort of careless, cavalier way of using clothes er w- and wearing and buing through clothes. you know, we used to not have such big closets, and we didn't-- we would buy one thing, not ten things. g maybe we need back to at, keep things longer. swap hand me downs. cherish our clothes again. and not just look at him as a fad that are coming and goingin because they'rpensive, we go, oh, but i can always get another one or, oh, i'll just ss it and get something new for friday night. we have to change that mentalit we can do other things, too, like instead of buying a new dress, go rent one. or, buy on consignment, or put things on consignment. keep things in circulation. but more importantly, just be more conscio and, and, and caring about our clothes. >> sreenivasan: the book is called "fashionopolis." ucdana thomas, thanks so m >> my pleasure.

>> sreenivasan: finally tonight, in the bahamas, chef josees annon-profit organization world central kitchen is delivering meals as messages o hope this weekend and into the days ahead. volunteers were inlace ahead of the storm, ready to carry out their now decade-old disaster- relief mission. the group is making not only sandwiches but also hot meals for thousands of displacedle pe the goal is to provide 30,000 meals a day througho the islands. that's all for this edition of pbs newshour weekend. i'm hari sreenivasan. thanks for watching. have a good night. captioning sponsored by wnet captioned by media access group at wgbh access.wgbh.g >> pbs newshour weekend is made bernard and irene schwartz.

sue and edgar wachenheim i. the cheryl and philip milsteinmi . the j.p.b. foundation. p rosaliwalter, in memory of george o'neil. barbara hope zuckerberg. corporate funding is provided by mutual of america-- designing customized individual and group retirement products. that's why we're your retirement company. additional support has been provided by: and by the corporation for public broadcasting. a private corporation funded by the american people. yoand by contributions to ur pbs station from viewers like you. thank you. be more. pbs.

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