- [me] i was good swier boy. was swimng in th oceabefore ias five. we jt took breath and oked dow the watewas glasclear. the spir of lighcame wn like cathedra itas like other world. d i neveforgot it si was hoed. i tellou i wasooked.

(insring mus) [male] tt was su a magic ti for me a kid. mean i c't even rely descre it. - [femal i just member thking it s so coo how wehtless ias. - [mal its fors are so much gger thaus. - [lne] at se point, yofeel likyou beco part of it,ot apartrom it. [male] is like aherapy for when i ve probls. - ale] forach of u 's our o privatehurch, our n prive temple

(insring mus) - if i dn't goiving, we didn'have foo i me really at's theruth. so it was ke pay a babysier or ta her witme. - fiing and ving hav be like thmain actities thaty dad ani would gether sce i wasittle. and evenhen it became sething where ke our fily didn't dend on i

put fooon the tle, itas just ways our vorite w ofpending me togetr. yeah, ha to gue en you'runder war. aughing) wellwhen sheas littl you knowshe coulonly go downaybe sixr seven et, ani could ve lik50 feet. and so s wanted to do erything could d as i thi most ki do and i just kt pressi into her, is just aut relaxg. - always smerizede how my dadould jusdive dee and ju go get ese fishnd ld his bath for long. and so iould alws just actice hding my eath. i'd watch m go dow ani would st see if i could ld my eath on t surface ere wereefiniteltimes where would fe scared or iould reaze how de i was and reize how all i felt and i uld get eaked ou

buthe minu i saw mdad, like justhe minu i ju saw hisilhouett in the dtance, i justnew i wasafe. i used tdive dow and i'd at the bottomnd wave her. anthen when she goin her 2, we went ving togeth and she, weoth swamown abou20 feet d then s waved gdbye answam dn anothe50 or 60 i couldn do it anymore. (eereal muc) [kimi] iwas just anncredie world to bintroduc to. it was aorld wheri could y. just bei able toatch all e fi down bew me and for ce i washe rd in th world. thereal sic)

kimi is st kno foher speafishing. d at aot of peop don't rlize is it kes an aual incredle amounof knowlge and thers a lot fferent riables. ere's th physiolical sid st tryinto get your bodunder control d actual almost wire yourody in aot of ways antake thingthat are suosed to voluntarreflexes and beg able to corol them likeettingour hearrate low and acally chaing the y th your bo distribes oxygennd blood then, u have thave the co2 lerance. - as iake a dr and i ve to ki of breakhrough th first brier of aosphere, but i geto thipoint wherthat buoncy chans d it beces negavely buont. d once tt haens, just sta to nk.

anthat was feelinghat, en i fst start doing the deeperrops, itind of sred me becae you fe like you'reetting pled, pulledomewherehat you mighnot be rdy to goet. but the re that would st surreer to it it jusfeels like 's almoslike youe being pull home. (ethereamusic) - and th when yohit the ttom, that's wn you stt lookinat the css board yore looki for cover, u're seeg what other small fish thatsually hg around somethg that y like, you see fish ofin the distce youant toarget. - she haa way ofcting li m just ather fisdown her dot worry out me until e bringser spe gun ouand nailit. st ous are oious humans o there.

mi's not - [kim there always xed emotns thacome witit. there'a part ome that feels e victorof the cch, thvictory securi this fo and thers anothepart of that wilalwa feel coassion ana bit oforrow fomy prey. - think th when she gured ou shcould gout and fe herself that was life changingoment foher. she was always aook. from liksix year old,he wanteto cook. and to gout anget thfish sheants to t and thenook 'em, it jt openedp a ole new rld for r. - imi] to , there'no better w to honomy catch then tshare itith others. i mean, i can e it in ople. itakes eve single te mean thamuch morto them en i tl themow deep i h to dive or wt the ocn lookedike,

how manfish the were swming thrgh a cav or t shark tt almostook it, whatev the casis, i know tt when i share th story, it becom an expeence, it bomes sething woh honori. - i mean've never rely been likafraid osharks, bui wouldn, when i wld see one, i wod just a like, you' over the and i'over her and i'doing mywn tng, but i'd ll my fi in they codn't getem. and thenf they'dome at m i woulpu 'em ay, where ki, as soo she seeone she' swim rit towardit. never t to tha int, younow? - imi] whei first stard spear shing ony own asn adult, i wod get prty terrifieif i saw shark i thinslowly i ju startedo get more comrtable wh them. and th one day just rememberomethinghanged ime

where i s pullin a nice sh that i w gonna bring me for dinner and th big shark camep to takit and just swafaster towardmy catch pull it in fter, closero me, everhing thawas brinng is sharkuch clos to me, but i t my han on it a st pulleit in tords me and sw at that shark ju to te it like, notoday buy, likeo get yo own nner, th one's me. and thminute iid that, at sharkook off. and at just ught me lot. it tght me tt the ener that i t out the, e confidce and t coage that show in holdi my grou, it'sonna comnicate to theharks what kd of anil i am. (gene music)

- she's mileahead ofhere i everreamed obeing. i mean y hear pele say, "oh,ou taugh her how dive." i codn't tea her w to do at she ds. that's jt nuts. all i take credifor is i goter coortable the wat anthat's rlly it. - [kim when yore under water,here's nstreetigns there'no way tling you ich way turn or wch way tgo.

buin the se reect, thsigns are erywhere everytng all oa dden jusgoes qet. and w that is quiet, i openy eyesnd all iear is my das voice ying, "jusrelax an rember howo swim." (etherl musi - [matah i love . don't kn how to scribe i 's reallscary,ut soood at t same me anthat's w i do it peaking foreignanguage)

- yohave tbe in thocean. whater you d it has to be ean-related. soooner orater, it surfing (gene music) (speakg in forgn langue)

- wavefrom undwater, it's totly diffent. looks rlly nice, ke frieny. you thk it's n really pered, but ce you g in it, you ju bring y straightnder it. you know coming om hawaii, ve surfepipeline ve servesome heavwaves he, but the fferencen hiti andhe wave how mucmore perct it is than a otherave i've er seen. ththing s just sueal lookg anit lood liket would ki you if u fell. - [matah my grandfher and dad alys told to be humb in the ter. rst,ou have show reect nature d the ocn. when i go surf, i ways maksure i'm 100%ith goodealth, escially wn there'big wave

- i meant's a rar sharp ef. if youall, youe nna get t to shi - like surng, yeah mostly t fun par like s feet, is fun. the's some daer, buminimal. it a diffent thing when y see youkids on much gger wes. i feel le someti like i' nodoing myob as a rent. (gentlmusic) surfing g waves re like iting thbig swel metimehey co, sometimethey don anthe stre is alys there u go che the wav and you knowt's gonnget bigg. and ere's alys th thing iyour min

telling u you'reonna have tgo for t big one i n't knowhat's how i thk every me, every me befori sleep. if you kw it gonna be big t night bore, u're notleeping ch, unlessou're od at slping. feels le the whe ocn is sucng up and thsea leves changi. (gentle sic) wh it's onthere's nothg like i and here's thi local ki matahi, surfinthis wavbetter ors good aanybody elsen the wod.

two yearago, whei was 16 trieto tell do not rf. didn't sten and weent surfg and at was t st day omy lif entle muc) - so bignd so maive and so fd up, just kinof blew everyo's minds this da, that'sn my min gottbe the bgest wav anne's everidden o there. - i dn't reaze how b it was le at theoment. i madehe drop. for a ment, i ought i was goa die, but at's whe you feelo alive.

feel rief, el uncomrtable. somemeyou fe like yore st melti in youroat watchinghem. (laughing) (gentlmusic) - i ally thi li if you y to go least o time a dato the oan, it mes youour lifeetter. every ti i come ck d after good seson, a basession en, i ways feebetter (gene music) - [lyn] i play piano foawhile and 's like u arn chorstructur

d you len moving your fgers up d down anyou learall th stuff, anthen the's a momt ere you tually g to play and the imming ilike plang and u don't ow what the muc's gonnbe until u're outhere. - she presen doing tngs at theimitf humaachievemt. people s, "well,hy would yoswim in tarctica - she'been stued in e past d has be shown thave a rerkable aptatio - ynne] thscientts ha figuredut that i'mble to closthe blooflow tohe peripral area my bodyeally qukly and ta that bld and put it io myore. - weere ableo confirm thathe can mntain stable by temperure with heread out the wat anin wateremperatus as lows 44 fahnheit. 've goone otheperson th we knowan do th.

- i sw the engsh channel en i was5 and 16ears olfrom ela to ance and i bre the mes and women's rld reco each time. i s the fit persono swim acro the strts of mallan at the t of sout erica, cle. i wathe firsperson tswim around t capof good hope from t atlantiaround to the iian ocea let's se fit woman swim fromhe northsland to theouth isld acrossook stras, new zeald. (insping sing musi myolks staed us swming when wwere so ung anit was sething wdid beforee could en walk. coach mbrel ticed ght away that athe end the wkout when eveone elseas tired was justicking umy pace. i hed about group ofids

thatere goa swim aoss the calina chael. i thoug maybe ii can swimatalina th them, th i can mbe do the glish annel. there we times toughout the im wheret hurt smuch ani wonder if i'd ke it, but aftei succeed that sw, i just kw that i want to do imore. it w where erything gan. (insring strg music) - inpen wateswimming cause yodon't ha a wall th you havto push f of, u don't ve to woy, you'reven more dionnectedrom the rld and even more inteal. - well ie alwaysoved st to gon the ocn because think th the quiet being ithe wate just y are seting in your n think nk and u can lein whaver noise u want onot. i thk that o of the olest parts ofeing in e ocean is bei able swim through changingea,

a ace whe u can fe all the ergy surunding y. it's a pce where the are noimits sot makeyou ink big. a califoia woman has manad to cro the gap betweethe unit state and the viet uni quitliterall lye cox, aenduranc swimr from cifornia, todabecame t first pso ever to im acros e beringtrait fromlaska tohe sovieunion. the watetemperate s 39 deges. (inspiri string sic) peaking feign lanage) nspiringtring muc) (speing in feign languag

udience plauding and 's butiful and 's hard d you wa to stop anyou haveeople on brd the bt at urge u on and ep you gng because may change e way thunited states a soviet ion deal wh each oer and mae we'll able to seeach oth as neigors and not enemies nspiringtring muc) noatter whe i go ithe worl ing intohe wateri fe like i'at home. i coulbe anywhe ytime day or ght, 's like m home. (ipiring sing musi - [ray] m imaging m bringi someone li almost o's blinto the oan. it'so powerf when i'm inhe water

u just gwherit kind , it puss you too. harness all the por of thecean d from dp water most bondry in aecond, so it'like an unrwater mntain. 's insan yeah. id say is like eighteet. thatne lookseally bi yeaho it's gna be on and it a risinswell, so it's nna be ctainly intesting toay the lst. phography nd of felin my la anthat w through a rkplace cident.

emoyment oions are etty limed and in ts area, ning a huge ployer ofveryone ally. it's notike you' trapped t it's jt the we-worn patho peopleollow it you're ainer f life. yore havinrockfalls, u're having gaouts, explions, crh injuri. i ju heard thi like sickeng crunc and it w my knee ani couldn walk and couldn'trive then i reazed that'm gonna geinto a he here. so i bght a cara, you knowkind of stted workg out thway thatou can manilate themage to h you wt it tbe. it felso natur. and by t time i'been doi th for sayight wee, myhysio remmende th ita swimmin so i had camera, i s alloweto go inhe ocean and i bought aater houng. it was kd of a czy purchase beuse it'sike veral thsand dolrs and u're kinof trng to ma ends me

'cau you're jured an you can'really dmuch. and it w single-ndedly the bestecision i'veade in mlife. (dramac stringusic) the joury of phography r me staed as a su photogrher. - wh reallsets m apart om me is thahe went d shot t sa places the samtime. the's loadof diffent other otographs, evenyself cluded

d we'd ce away wh sothing dierent. a photoapher, you tice thawhen someone'got thatye and theyee sometng at you dn't see. - whever youut a surr frame ia surfing pictur u have aiteral ptrayal of wt's happing ther ke the sfer out anyou're gna lose the ference int. ratherhan havi a faual reprentation u kind ohave fictionaone. you me to it you brg thin to it. and that what i fi in ray'work. he lves a loofpace the r peopleo bring thin to his wo. - e shots the la ing in ahain of evts. itomes fm lookinat weatr maps, nd, tide where the n isonna line up. sometis i'lllan a single st for siweeks. (gene music)

i quit cl mining ne monthago. threason iind of he onto itor so lo, because offeredike financiasafety n d it was big, scy thing to turn back on a ekly paycheck. i rangy bossnd i thand him fohaving m ani told h that i'not gonna back tohe mine, i'm nogonna gemy tools i'm not nna gemy helme i'm not gonna get anhing, i'gonna lee that whollife the and i'never gog back. and i'gonna sht phot of the ean. nspiringusic)

(darstring mic)

- u know ieeded an escapehen i waa kid. it ge me thiamazing ace to eerience fe. i was rais by my m. and mom alws taughte to rlly, reay share y jothat youave in yr life. i make ia point, it's kd of likmy duty do what'm doingow. - he iexceptiolly smart ov and beyd,

t he's sll 11 yes old. you see woman like gndma shiey, you knowhe took anthony when hwas six nths old anyou thinabout at the rsons wer foher to dthat. thatits me le an arrow the hea. i real don't knowhat happed, but i ink my gndma kno. doou know? - him anthe moth got intit and ey were parated d she watrying tget him anhe wasn'letting m go. and shapproaed m in aaltercion. and en aftert was ov with, shcalled t police him d they tk him. anwhile was the, had an thma attk and theyidn't see abo him and at's whe he pass