- [me] i was good swier boy. was swimng in th oceabefore ias five. we just took areath and loed down. e water s glass ear. the spir of lighcame wn lika cathedl. itas like other wod. and never foot it so i s hooked i tellou i wasooked.

(insring mus) - [male]hat was ch a magic me for mas a kid mean i c't even rely descre it. - [femal i just member thking it s so coo how wehtless ias. - [male]ts forceare much bier thaus. - ynne] atome poin u feel le you beme part of i not apa from it [male] is like aherapy fome when have proems. - ale] forach of u 's our o privatehurch, our n prive temp.

(insring mus) - if i dn't goiving, we didn'have foo i me really at's theruth. so it s ke pay a babysier or ta her witme. - fiing and ving hav be like thmain actities thaty dad ani would gether sce i wasittle. and evenhen it became sething where ke our fily didn't dend on i put fooon the tle,

itas just ways our vorite w spendintime togher. - ah, hardo are wh you're der wate aughing) wellwhen sheas littl u know, e could ly go down mbe six oseven fe, ani could ve lik50 feet. and so s wanted do erything could d as i thi most ki do and i just kt pressi into her, is just aut relaxg. - always smerizede how my dadould jusdive dee and ju go get ese fishnd ld his bath for long. and so iould alws just actice hding my eath. i'd watch m go dow ani would st see if i could ld my breath on t surface ere wereefiniteltimes wheri would el scare or would rlize how ep i was and reize how all i felt and i uld get eaked ou

but e minute saw my d, like jt the mite i st saw h silhouee in the dtance, i justnew i wasafe. i used tdive dow and i'd at the bottomnd wave her. anthen when she goin her 2, we went ving togeth and she, weoth swamown abou20 fee d then s waved gdbye d swam dn anothe50 or 60 i couldn do itnymo. (eereal muc) [kimi] iwas just anncrediblworld to be introduc to. it was aorld wheri could y. just bei able toatch all e fishown belome and for ce i washe rd in th world. thereal sic)

kimi is st kno foher speafishing. d what aot of peop don't rlize is it kes an aual incrible amot of knoedge and thers a lot fferent riables. ere's th physiolical sid just tryg to get your by undecontrol anactuallylmost rere your by in a l of ways anta things at are supped to be inluntary flexes and beg le to corol them likeettingour hearrate low and acally chaing the y th your bo distribes oxygennd blood then, u have thave the co2 lerance. - as iake a dr and i ve to ki of breakhrough th first brier of aosphere, but i geto thipoint whe that byancy chges d it beces negavely buont. and oncehat haens, just sta to nk.

anthat was feelinghat, en i fst start doing the deeperrops, kind ofcared me becae you fe like you'reetting pled, pulledomewherehat you mighnot be rdy to goet. but the re that i would st surnder to , it just els like 's almoslike youe being pull home. thereamusic) - and en whe you hit e bottom that when yostart loing at t chess brd, yore looki for cover, yore seeinwhat her smalfish thatsually hg around somethg that y like, you see fish ofin the distce youant toarget. - she has a way acting ke m just ather fisdown her dot worry out me until e bringser spe gun ouand nailit. st ous are oious humans o there.

mi's not - [kim there always mixed emotns thacome witit. there'a part ome that feels e victorof the cch, thvictory securi this fo and thers anothepart of that wilalwa feel coassion ana bit oforrow fomy prey. - think th when she gured ou shcould gout and fe herself that was life changingoment foher. she was always aook. from liksix year old,he wanteto cook. and to go out anget e fish s wants tget and thenook 'em, itust open up a whole neworld foher. [kimi] tme, thers no betteray to hor my cat then tshare itith others. i me, i can e it ipeople. itakes eve single te mean thamuch morto them en i tl themow deep i h to dive or wt the ocn lookedike, how manfish the were swimng throu a cave

or t shark tt almostook it, whatev the casis, i know tt when i share at story it becom an expeence, it bomes sething worthonoring - i mean've never rely been likafraid osharks, bui wouldn, when i wld see one, i wod just a like, you' over the and i'over her and i'doing mywn tng, but i'd ll my fi in they codn't getem. and thenf they'dome at m i woulpu 'em ay, where ki, as soo she seeone she' swim rit towardit. never t to tt point, y know? - imi] whei first stard spear shing my own an adul i wod get prty terrifieif i saw shark i think owly i justtarted tget more cfortableith them and th one day just rememberomethinghanged ime

where i s pullin a nice sh that i w gonna bring me for dinner and th big shark camep to takit and just swafaster towardmy catch pull it in fter, closero me, everhing thawas brinng is sharkuch clos to me, but i gomy handsn it a st pulleit in tords me and am at th shark justo tellt like, t today ddy, likeo get yo own nner, th one's me. and thminute iid that, at sharkook off. and at just ught me lot. it tght me tt the ener that i t out the, the confence andhe urage th i show in holdi my grou, it'sonna comnicate to theharks what kd of anil i am. (gene music)

- she's mileahead ofhere i everreamed obeing. i mean y hear pele say, "oh,ou taugh her how dive." i codn't tea her w to do at she ds. that's jt nuts. all i ta credit r is i goter coortable the wat anthat's rlly it. - [kim when yore under water,here's nstreetigns there'no way tling you ich way turn or wch way tgo.

buin theame respect, the signare evywhere. everytng all oa dden jusgoes quiet. and w that is quiet, i openy eyesnd all iear is my d's voicsaying, "jt relax d member h to swim (etherl musi - [matah i love . don't kn how to scribe i it's reay scary,ut soood at t same me anthat's w i do it (saking inoreignanguage)

- yohave tbe in thocean. whater you d it has to be ean-related. soooner orater, it surfing (gene music) (speakg in forgn langue)

- wavefrom undwater, it's totly diffent. looks rlly nice, ke frieny. you thinit's not really pered, but on you g in it, you ju bring y straightnder it. you know coming om hawaii, ve surfepipeline ve servesome heavwaves he, but the fferencen hiti andhe wave isow mucmore perct it is than a other we i've eveseen. ththing wajust rreal loing anit lood liket would ki you if u fell. - [mati] my grandfher and dad alwa told meo be humblen the war. rst,ou have show reect nature d the ocn. when i go surf, i ways maksure i'm 100%ith goodealth, escially wn there'big wave

- i meant's a rar sharp ef. if youall, youe nna get t to shi - like surng, yeah mostly t fun par like s feet, is fun. the's some daer, buminimal. it a diffent thing when y see youkids on much ggeraves. i feel le someti like i' nodoing myob as a rent. (gentlmusic) surfing g waves re like iting thbig swel metimehey co, sometimethey don anthe stre is alys there u go che the wav and you knowt's gonnget bigg. and ere's alys th thing iyour min

telling u you'reonna have tgo for t big one i n't knowhat's how i thk every me, every me befori sleep. if you kw it gonna be big t night bore, you're n sleepinmuch, unlessou're od at slping. iteels likthe whe ocn is sucng up and thsea leves changi. (gentle sic) wh it's onthere's nothg like i and he's thi local ki matahi, surfinthis wavbetter ors good aanybody elsen the wod.

two yearago, wn i was , trieto tell do not rf. didn't sten and weent surfg and at was t st day omy lif entle muc) - so bignd so maive and so fd up, just kinof blew everne's mds. to this te, that in my md gottbe the bgest wav anyo's ever dden outhere. - i dn't reaze how b it was le at theoment. i madehe drop. for a ment, i ought i was goa die, but at's whe you feelo alive.

feel rief, el uncomfoable. somemeyou fe like yore st melti in youroat watchinghem. (laughing) (gentlmusic) - i ally thi li if you y to go least o time a dato the oan, it mes youour lifeetter. every ti i come ck d after good seson, a basession en, i ways feebetter. (gene music) - [lyn] i play piano foawhile and 's like u arn chorstructur d you len moving your fgers up d down

anyou learall th stuff, anthen the's a momt ere you tually g to play and the imming ilike plang and u don't ow what the muc's gonnbe until u're outhere. - she presen doing tngs at theimitf human hievemen ople s, "well,hy would yoswim in tarctica - she'been stued in e past d has be shown thave a rerkable adaptatio - ynne] thscientts ha figuredut that i'mble to closthe blooflow tohe peripral area my bodyeally qukly and ta that bld and put it io myore. - were ab to confm th she canaintain stableody tempature with heread out the wat and in wat temperares as l as 44 frenheit. 've got e otheperson th we knowan do th.

- i sw the elish channel en i was5 and 16ears olfrom ela to ance and i oke the n's and women'world rerd each me. i s the fit persono swim acro the strts of mallan at the t of sout erica, cle. i wathe firsperson tswim around t capof good hope from t atlantiaround to the iian ocea let's se fit woman swim fromhe northsland to theouth isld acrossook stras, new zeald. (insping strg music) folks srted us imming whene were syoung anit was sething wdid beforee could en walk. coach mbrel ticed ght away that athe end the wkout en everye else w tired, i s just pking up pace. i hed about group ofids

thatere goa swimcross the talina cnnel. i thoug maybe ii can swimatalina th them, th i can mbe do the glish channel. there we times toughout the im wheret hurt smuch ani wonder if i'd ke it, but aftei succeed that sw, i justnew that waed to dot more. it w where erything gan. (insring strg music) - inpen wateswimming cause yodon't ha a wall thatou have push f of, u don't ve to woy, you'reven more dionnectedrom the rld and even more inteal. - well ie alwaysoved st to gon the ocn because think th the quiet being ithe wate st you a settlin inour own ink tank and u can lein whaver noise u want onot. i thk that o of the olest parts ofeing in e ocean is bei able swim through changingea,

a ace whe yocan fe all the ergy surunding y. it's a pce where the are noimits sot makeyou thk big. a califoia womanas manageto crosshe gap betweethe unit state and the viet uni quitliterall lye cox, aenduranc swimr from cifornia, toy becamehe firstern evero swim aoss the beng strai fromlaska tohe sovieunion. e watetemperate s 39 deges. (inspiri string sic) peakinin feign lanage) nspiringtring muc) (speing in feign languag

udience plauding and 's butiful and 's hard d you wa to stop anyou haveeople on board theoat at urge u on and ep you gng because may change e way thunited states a soviet ion deal wh each oer and mae we'll able to seeach oth as neigors and not enemies nspiringtring muc) noatter whe i go ithe worl gog into t water, feel like i'at home. i coulbe anywhe anime day or ght, 's like m home. (ipiring sing musi - [ray] m imaging m bringi someone li almost o's blinto the oan. it so poweul when i'm the wat.

u just gwherit kind , it puss you too. harness all the por of thecean d from dp water most bondry in aecond, so is like a derwaterountain. 's insan yeah. id say is like eighteet. thatne lookseally bi yeaho it's gna be on and it a risinswell, so it's nna be ctainly intesting toay the lst. photraphy ki of fell my lap. anthat w through a rkplace cident.

employment oions are etty limed and in ts area, ning a huge ployer ofveryone ally. it's notike you' trapped t it's jt the we-worn patho peopleollow it you're ainer for life. yore havg rockfas, u're having gas outs, exosions, ush injues. i ju heard thi like sickeng crunc and it w my knee ani couldn walk and couldn'trive d then i rlized th i'm gonna t into aole here so i bght a cara, you knowkind of stted workg out thway thatou can manilate themage to h you wt it to . it felso natur. and by t time i'been doi th for sayight wee, myhysio remmende th ita swimmin so i had camera, i s alloweto go inhe ocean and bought aater houng. it was kd of a czy purase beuse it'sike veral thsand dolrs and u're kinof trng to ma ends me

'causeou're jured an you can'really dmuch. and it w single-ndedly the bestecision i'veade in mlife. (dramac stringusic) the joury of phography r me staed as a su photogrher. - at reallsets hiapart fr me is tt he wenand shothe me placeat the se time. the's loadof diffent other otographs, evenyself cluded

d we'd ce away wh sothing dierent. as a phographer, yonotice tt when someons got th eye and theyee sometng at you dn't see. - whever youut a surr frame ia surfing pictur u have aiteral ptrayal of wt's happing ther take theurfer ou d you'reonna los threferencpoint. ratherhan havi a faual reprentation u kindf have a fictiol one. you me to it you brg thin to it. and that what i fi in ray'work. heeaves a t of space tre for peop to brin thin to his wo. the shots the la ing in ahain of evts. comes fm lookinat weatr maps, nd, tide where the n isonna linup. somemes i'll plan a single st for siweeks. (gene music)

i quit cl mining ne monthago. threason iind of he onto itor so lo, because offeredike financiasafety n d it was big, scy thing to turn back on a ekly pcheck. i rang mboss a i thankehim for ving me ani told h that i'not gonna back tohe mine, i'm nogonna gemy tools i'm not nna gemy helme i'm not gonna get anhing, i'gonna lee that whollife the and i'never gog back. and i'gonna shoot photos of the ean. nspiringusic)

(darstring mic)

- u know ieeded an escapehen i waa kid. it ge me thiamazing ace to eerience fe. i s rais by my m. and mom alws taughte to rlly, reay share y jothat youave in yr life. i maket a poin it's kd of likmy duty do what'm doingow. - he iexceptiolly smart ov and beyd,

t he's sll 11 yes old. you see woman like gndma shiey, you knowhe took anthony ene was x monthsld. anyou thinabout at the rsons wer foher to dthat. thatits me le an arrow the hea. i real don't knowhat happed, but i ink my gndma kno. doou know? - him anthe moth got intit and ey were parated d she watrying tget him anhe wasn'letting m go. and shapproaed m in aaltercion. and en aftert was ov with, shcalled t police him d they tk him. anwhile was the, had an thma attk and theyidn't see abo him and at's whe he pass