- [me] i was good swier boy. was swimng in th oceabefore ias five. we just took areath and loed down. e water s glass ear. the spir of lighcame wn lika cathedl. itas like other wod. ani never rgot it so was hook. i tellou i wasooked.

(insring mus) [male] tt was su a magic ti for me a kid. mean i c't even rely descre it. - [femal i just member thking it s so coo how wehtless ias. [male] i forces e souch bigg than . - [lne] at se point, yofeel likyou beco part of it,ot apartrom it. [male] is like aherapy fome when have proems. - ale] forach of u 's our o privatehurch, our n prive temp.

(insring mus) - if i dn't goiving, we didn'have foo i me really at's theruth. so it s ke pay a babysier or ta her witme. - fiing and ving hav be like thmain actities thaty dad ani would gether sce i wasittle. and evenhen it became sething where ke our fily didn't dend on i put fooon the tle,

itas just ways our vorite w spendintime togher. - ah, hardo argu wh you're der wate aughing) wellwhen sheas littl you knowshe coulonly go downaybe sixr seven et, ani could ve lik50 feet. and so s wanted do erything could d as i thi most ki do and just kt pressi into her, is just aut relaxg. - always smerizede how my dadould jusdive dee and ju go get ese fishnd ld his bath for long. and so iould alws just actice hding my eath. i'd watch m go dow ani would st see if i could ld my breath on t surface ere wereefiniteltimes where would fe scared or iould reaze how de i was and reize how all i felt and i uld get eaked ou

but e minute saw my d, like jt the mite i st saw h silhouee in the dtance, i justnew i wasafe. i used tdive dow and i'd at the bottomnd wave her. anthen when she goin her 2, went ding togethernd she's weoth swamown abou20 fee d then s waved gdbye answam dn anothe50 or 60 i couldn do it anymo. (ethereal sic) - imi] it s just an irediblworld to be troduc to. it was aorld wheri could y. just bei able toatch all e fish dn below and for ce i washe rd in th world. (eereal muc)

kimi is st kno foher speafishing. d what aot of peop don't rlize is it kes an aual incrible amot of knoedge and the's a loof differenvariable ere's that physiogical se, just tryg to get your by under contro anactuallylmost rere your by in a l of ways anta things at are supped to be inluntary flexes and beg ab to contl them, likeetting yr heart te low and acally chaing the y th your bo distribes oxygennd blood then, u have thave the co2 lerance. - as iake a dr and i ve to ki of breakhrough th first brier of aosphere, but i geto thipoint wherthat buoncy chans d it beces negavely buont. and oncehat haens, i just srt to nk.

anthat was feelinghat, en i fst start doing the deeperrops, kind ofcared me becae you fe like you'reetting pled, pulledomewherehat you mighnot be rdy to goet. but the re that i would st surnder to , it just els like 's almoslike youe being pull home. thereamusic) - and en whe you hit e bottom that'shen you art loing at t chess brd, you' lookingor cover, u're seeg what other small fish that ually hanaround somethinthat youike, you see fish ofin the distce you want toarget. - she s a way acting ke m just ather fisdown her dot worry out me until e bringser spe gun ouand nailit. st ous are oious humans o there.

mi's not - [kim there always mixed emotns thacome witit. there'a part ome that feels e victorof the cch, thvictory securi this fo and thers anothepart of that wilalwa feel coassion ana bit oforrow fomy prey. - think th when she gured ou shcould gout and fe herself that was life changingoment foher. she was always aook. from liksix year old,he wanteto cook. and to gout anget thfish sheants to t and thenook 'em, it jt openedp a ole new rld for r. [kimi] tme, thers no betteray to hor my cat then tshare itith others. i me, i casee it ipeople. itakes eve single te mean thamuch morto them en i tl themow deep i h to dive or wt the ocn lookedike, how manfish the were swming thrgh a cav

or t shark tt almostook it, whatev the casis, i know tt when i share at story it becom an expeence, itecomes sething woh honori. - i mean've never rely been likafraid osharks, bui wouldn, when i wld see one, i wod just a like, you' over the and i'over her and i'm ing my o tng, but i'd ll my fi in they codn't getem. and thenf they'dome at m i woulpu 'em awa where ki, as soo she seeone she' swim rit towardit. never t to tha int, younow? - imi] whei first stard spear shing my own an adul i wod get prty terrifieif i saw shark. i think owly i justtarted tget more comrtable wh them. and th one day just rememberomethinghanged ime

where i s pullin a nice sh that i w gonna bring me for dinner and thisig shark came uto take and just swafaster towardmy catch pull it in fter, closero me, everhing thawas brinng is sharkuch clos to me, but i t my han on it a st pulleit in tords me and am at th shark justo tellt like, notoday buy, likeo get yo own nner, th one's me. and thminute iid that, at sharkook off. and at just ught me lot. it tght me tt the ener that i t out the, e confidce and t coage that show in holng my grnd, it'sonna cmunicate to t sharks what kd of anil i am. (gene music)

- she'miles ahd of wre i ever damed of ing. mean youear peop say, "oh,ou taugh her hoto dive. i coul't teacher hoto do wh she doe that's jt nuts. all i ta credit r is i goter coortable the wat anthat's rlly it. - [kim when yore under water,here's nstreetigns there'no way tling you ich way turn or wch way tgo.

buin the se reect, the signs are erywhere everytng allf a dden jusgoes qet. and nothat it'quiet, i openy eyesnd all iear is my das voice ying, "jusrelax an rember howo swim." (etherl musi - [matah i love . don't kn how to scribe i it's reay scary,ut soood at t same me anthat's w i do it (saking inoreignanguage)

- yohave to in the ean. whater you d it has to be ean-relad. soooner orater, it surfing (gene music) (speakg in forgn langue)

- waves om underter, 's total differe. looks rlly nice, ke frieny. you thk it's n really pered, but ce you g in it, you ju bring y straightnder it. you know coming om hawaii, ve surfepipeline ve servesome heavwaves he, but the fferencen hiti andhe wave isow mucmore perct it is than a other we i've eveseen. ththing s just rreal loing and it lood liket would ki you if u fell. - [mati] my grandfher and dad alys told to be humb in the ter. fit, y have tohow respt toature anthe ocea when i go surf, i ways maksure i'm 100%ith goodealth, escially wn there'big wave

- i meant's a rar sharp ef. if youall, youe nna get t to shi - like surng, yeah mostly t fun par like s feet, is fun. the's some daer, buminimal. it a diffent thing when y see youkids on much gger wes. i feel le someti like i' nodoing myob as a rent. (gentlmusic) surfing g waves re like iting thbig swel metimehey co, sometimethey don and e stre is alys there u go che the wav and you knowt's gonnget bigg. and ere's alys th thing iyour min

telling u you'reonna have tgo for t big one i n't knowhat's how i thk every me, every me befori sleep. if you kw it gonna be big t night bore, u're notleeping ch, unlessou're od at slping. feels le the whe ocn is sucng up and thsea leves changi. (gentle sic) wh it's onthere's nothg like i and he's thi cal ki matah surfing is wave tter ors good aanybody elsen the wod.

- o years ago, whei was 16 trieto tell do not rf. didn't sten and weent surfg and at was t st day omy lif entle muc) - so bignd so maive and so fd up, just kinof blew evyone's mds. to this te, that in my md gottbe the bgest wav anyo's ever dden outhere. - i dn't reaze how b it was le at theoment. i madehe drop. for a ment, i ought i was goa die, but at's whe you feelo alive.

feel rief, el uncomrtable. somemeyou fe like yore st melti in youroat watchinghem. (laughing) (gene music) - i ally thi li if you y to go least o time a dato the oan, it mes youour lifeetter. every ti i come ck d after good seson, a basession en, i ways feebetter (gene music) - [lyn] i play piano foawhile and 's like u arn chorstructur d you len moving your fgers up d down

anyou learall th stuff, anthen the's a momt ere you tually g to play and the imming ilike plang and u don't ow what the muc's gonnbe until u're outhere. - she presen doing tngs at the litf human hievemen ople s, "well,hy would yoswim in tarctica - she'been stued in e past d has be shown thave a rerkable aptatio - ynne] thscientts ha figuredut that i'mble to closthe blooflow tohe peripral area my bodyeally qukly and ta that bld and put it io myore. - were ab to confm th she canaintain stableody tempature with heread out the wat and in wat temperares as l as 44 frenheit. 've got e otheperson at we kn can do at.

- i sw the engsh channel en i was5 and 16ears olfromngland to ance and i oke the n's and women'world rerd each me. i s the fit persono swim acro the strts of mallan at the t of sout erica, cle. i wathe firsperson tswim around t capof good hope from t atlantiaround to the iian ocea let's se fit woman swim fromhe northsland to theouth isld acrossook stras, new zeald. (insping strg musi myolks staed us swming when wwere so ung anit was sething wdid beforee could en walk. coacgambrel ticed ght away that athe end the wkout en everye else w tired, was justicking umy pace. i hed about group ofids

thatere goa swim aoss the calina chael. i thoug maybe ii can swimatalina th them, th i can mbe do the glish annel. there we times toughout the im wheret hurt smuch ani wonder if i'd ke it, but aftei succeed that sw, i just kw that i want to do imore. it w where erything gan. (insring strg music) - inpen wateswimming cause yodon't ha a wall th you havto push f of, u don't ve to woy, you'reven more dionnectedrom the rld and even more inteal. - well ie alwaysoved st to gon the ocn because think th the quiet being ithe wate st you a settlin inour own ink tank and u can lein whaver noise u want onot. i thk that o of the olest parts ofeing in e ocean is bei able swim through changingea,

a ace whe u can fe all the ergy surunding y. it's a pce where the are noimits sot makeyou thk big. a califoia woman has manageto crosshe gap betweethe unit state and the viet uni quitliterall lye cox, aenduranc swimr from cifornia, toy becamehe firsterso ever to im acros e beringtrait fromlaska tohe sovieunion. e watetemperate s 39 deges. (inspiri string sic) peakinin feign lanage) nspiringtring muc) (speing in feign languag

udience plauding and 's butiful and 's hard d you wa to stop anyou haveeople on brd the bt at urge u on and ep you gng because may change e way thunited states a soviet ion deal wh each oer and mae we'll able to seeach oth as neigors and not enemies nspiringtring muc) noatter whe i go ithe worl ing intohe wateri fe like i'at home. i coulbe anywhe ytime ofay or nit, 's like m home. (ipiring sing musi - [ray] m imaging m bringi someone li almost o's blind the oan. it so poweul when i'm the wat.

you justo wherit kind , it puss you too. harness all the por of thecean d from dp water most bondry in aecond, so is like a derwaterountain. 's insan yeah. id say is ke eighteet. thatne lookseally bi yeaho it's gna be on and it a risinswell, so it's nna be ctainly intesting toay the lst. phography nd of felin my la anthat w through a rkplace cident.

employment oions are etty limed and in ts area, ning a huge ployer ofveryone ally. it's notike you' trapped t it's jt the we-worn patho peopleollow it you're a mer f life. yore havg rockfas, u're having gas outs, exosions, ush injues. i ju heard thi like sickeng crunc and it w my knee ani couldn walk and couldn'trive d then i rlized th i'm gonna t into aole here so i bght a cara, you knowkind of stted workg out thway thatou can manilate themage to h you wt it to . it felso natur. and by t time i'been doi th for sayight wee, myhysio remmende th ita swimmin so i had camera, i s alloweto go inhe ocean and i bought aater houng. it was kd of a czy purase beuse it'sike veral thsand dolrs anyou're kd of ying to ke ends et

'cau you're jured an you can'really dmuch. and it w single-ndedly the bestecision i'veade in mlife. (dramac stringusic) the joury of phography r me staed as a su photogrher. - wh reallsets m apart om me is thahe went d shot t sa places the samtime. the's loadof diffent other otographs, evenyself cluded

d we'd ce away wh sothing dierent. as a phographer, yonotice tt when someons got th eye and theyee sometng at you dn't see. - whever youut a surr frame ia surfing pictur u have aiteral ptrayal of wt's happing ther take theurfer ou d you'reonna los threferencpoint. ratherhan havi a faual reprentation you kindf have a fictiol one. you me to it you brg thin to it. and that what i fi in ray'work. heeaves a t of space tre for peop to brin thin to his wo. the sh is the st thing in chain of evts. itomes frolookinat weatr maps, nd, tide where the n isonna linup. somemes i'll plan a single st for siweeks. (gene music)

i quit cl mining ne monthago. threason iind of he onto itor so lo, because offeredike financiasafety n d it was big, scy thing to turn back on a ekly pcheck. i rangy bo and i thked him r havinge ani told h that i'not gonna back tohe mine, i'm nogonna gemy tools i'm not nna gemy helme i'm not gonna get anhing, i'gonna lee that whollife the and i'never gog back. and i'gonna sht photos of the ean. nspiringusic)

(darstring mic)

- u know ieeded an escapehen i waa kid. it ge me thiamazing ace to eerience fe. i s rais by my m. and mom alws taughte to rlly, reay share y jothat youave in yr life. i make ia point, it's kd of likmy duty do what'm doingow. - he iexceptiolly smart ov and beyd,

t he's sll 11 yes old. you see woman like gndma shiey, you knowhe took anthony ene was x monthsld. anyou thinabout at the rsons wer foher to dthat. thatits me le an arrow the hea. i real don't knowhat happed, but i ink my gndma kno. doou know? - him anthe moth got intit and ey were parated d she watrying tget him anhe wasn'letting m go. and shapproaed m in aaltercion. and en aftert was ov with, shcalled t police him d they tk him. anwhile was the, had an thma attk and theyidn't see abo him and at's whe he pass