- ale] i w a good smmer boy i was swming in e ocn before was fiv we just took areath and loed down. e water s glass ear. the spir of lighcame wn like cathedra itas like other wod. ani never rgot it so was hook. i tellou i w hooked.

(inspiring mic) [male] tt was su a magic ti for me a kid. mean i c't even rely descre it. - [femal i just member thking it s so coo how wehtless ias. [male] i forces e much bier than . - [lne] at se point, yofeel likyou beco part of it,ot apartrom it. [male] is like aherapy for when i ve probls. - ale] forach of u 's our o privatehurch, our n prive temple

(ipiring mic) - if i dn't goiving, we didn'have foo i me really at's theruth. so it s li pay a babysitt or takeer with me. - fiing and ving hav be like thmain actities thaty dad ani would gether sce i wasittle. and evenhen it became sething where ke our fily didn't dend on i

put fooon the tle, itas just ways our vorite w spendintime togher. - ah, ha to argu wh you're der wate aughing) wellwhen sheas littl you knowshe coulonly go downaybe sixr seven et, ani could ve like feet. and so s wanted too evything iould do as i thi most ki do and just keppressingnto her, it'just abo relaxin - always smerizede how my dadould jusdive dee and ju go get ese fishnd ld his bath for long. and so iould alws just prtice holng my brth. i'd watch m go dow ani would st see if i could ld my breath on t surface the were dinitely mes where would fe scared or iould reaze how de i was and reize how all i felt and i uld get eaked ou

buthe minu i saw mdad, like jt the mite i st saw h silhouee in the dtance, i justnew i wasafe. i used tdive dow and i'd at the bottomnd wave her. anthen when she goin her 2, we went ving togeth and she, both sw down abt 20 fee d then s waved gdbye answam dn anothe50 or 60 i couldn do it anymore. (etheal musi - imi] it s just an irediblworld to be troduc to. it was aorld wheri could y. just bei able toatch all e fishown belome and for ce i washe rd in th world. thereal sic)

- kimi ibest kwn r her spr fishin and what aot of peop don't rlize is it kes an aual incredle amounof knowlge and the's a loof differenvariable ere's th physiolical sid just tryg to get your by under contro anactuallylmost rere your by in a l of wa and ta things at are supped to be inluntary flexes and ing able to corol them likeetting yr hearrate low and actuly changg the wa th your bo distribes oxygennd blood then, u have thave the co2 lerance. - as iake a dr and i ve to ki of breakhrough th first brier of aosphere, but i geto thipoint wherthat buoncy chans d it beces negavely buont. and oncehat haens, i just srt to nk.

anthat was feelinghat, en i fst start doing the deeperrops, itind of sred me becae you el like you' gettingulled, pull somewhe that yo mit not beeady to yet. but the re that i would st surreer to it it just els like it's almt like y're ing pull home. (eereal muc) - and th when yohit the ttom, that's wn you stt lookinat the css board you' lookingor cover, yore seeinwhat her smalfish that ually hanaround somethinthat youike, you see fish ofin the distce you want toarget. - she haa way ofcting li m just ather fisdown her dot worry out me until e bringser spear n out d nails . st ous are oious humans o there.

mi's not - [kim there always mixed emotns thacome witit. there'a part ome that feels e victorof the cch, e victorof securi this fo and thers anothepart of that wilalwa feel coassion ana bit oforrow fomy prey. i think at when shfigured t shcould gout and fe herself that was life changingoment foher. she was ways a ck. om like x years old, s wanted cook. d to gout and get thfish sheants to t and thenook 'em, it jt openedp a ole new rld for r. - imi] to , there'no better w to honomy catch then tshare itith others. i me, i can e it ipeople. itakes eve single te mean thamuch morto them en i tell them h ep i hado dive or whathe ocealooked le,

how manfish the were swimng throu a cave or t shark tt almostook it, whatev the casis, i know tt when i share th story it becom an expeence, it bomes sething worthonoring - i an i've vereally beenike afra of shar, bui wouldn, when i wldee one, i wod just a like, you' over the and i'over her and i'doing mywnhing, but i'pull my sh in they codn't getem. and thenf they'dome at m i woulpu 'em ay, where ki, as soo she seeone shll swim ght towas it. i ver t to tha int, younow? - imi] whei first stard spear shing ony own asn adult, i wod get prty terrifd if i s a shark i thinslowly i ju startedo get more comrtable wh them. and th one day just rememberomethinghanged ime

ere i wapulling in nice fi that i w gonna bring me for dinner and thisig shark came uto take and i st swafaster towardmy catch pull it in fter, closero me, everhing thawas brinng is sharkuch clos to me, but i t my han on it a st pulleit in tords me and sw at that shark ju to te it like, t today ddy, li go get ur own dinner, is one'sine. and e minute did thatthat sha took of and at just ught me lot. it tght me tt the ener that i t out the, thconfiden and the coure that ihow in holdi my grou, it'sonna comnicate to theharks what kd of anil i am. (gtle musi

- she'miles ahd of wre i ever damed of ing. i mean y hear pele say, "oh, y taugh her how dive." i coul't teacher hoto do wh she doe that's jt nuts. all i take credifor is i goter coortable the wat and th's reallit. - [kim when yore under water,here's nstreetigns there'no wayelling y which wato turn orhich wayo go.

buin the se reect, the signs are erywhere everytng allf a dden jusgoes qet. and nothat it'quiet, i open meyes a all i hr is my das voice ying, "jt relax d member h to swim (etherl music) - [matah i love . don't kn how to scribe i it's reay scary,ut soood at t same me anthat's w i do it (saking inoreignanguage)

- yohave tbe in thocean. whater you d it has to be ean-relad. soooner orater, it surfing (gene music) (speakg in forgn langue)

- wavefrom undwater, it's totly diffent. looks rlly nice, ke frieny. you thk it's n really pered, but ce you g in it, you justring you raight uer it. you know coming om hawaii, ve surfepipeline i've serd some hey waves re, but thdifferen in tahiti a the wav isow much re perfe it is than a other we i've eveseen. ththing wajust sueal lookg and it lood liket would ki you if u fell. - [matah my grandfher anmy dad alys told to be humb in the ter. fit, y have tohow respt toature anthe ocea when i go surf, i ways maksure i'm 100%ith goodealth, escially wn there'big wave

- i meant's a rar sharp ef. if youall, youe nna get t to shi - like surng, yeah mostly t fun par like sixeet, it'fun. thers some daer, but nimal. it a diffent thing whenou see yr kids on mucbigger wes. i feel le someti like i' nodoing myob as a rent. (gentlmusic) surfing g waves mo like waing thbig swel metime ty come metimes ey don't anthe stre is alys there u go che the wav and you knowt's gonnget bigg. and the's alwa thathing in ur mind

lling yoyou'reonna have tgo for t big one i dot know tt's w i thk every me, every me befori sleep. if you kw it gonna be big t night bore, u're notleeping ch, unlessou're go at sleeng. feels le the whe ocn is sucng up and thsea leves changi. (gentle sic) whent's on, ere's nothinlike i and he's this cal ki matah surfing is wave tter or agood as ybody else ithe worl

- o years ago, whei was 16 tried tell uso not su. weidn't lien and we wt surfin and at was t st day omy life. entle muc) - so bignd so maive and so fd up, st kind blew everyone minds this da, that'sn my min gottbe the bgest wav anyo's ever dden outhere. - i dn't reaze how b it was le at theoment. i madehe dro for a moment, thought i was nna die, but at's whe you feelo alive.

- feel rief, fe uncomfortable. somemeyou fe like yore st melti in youroat tching them. (laughg) (gentlmusic) - i ally thi li if you y to go ateast oneime a day the oce, it mes you yr life bter. every me i comback d after good seson, a basession en, i ways feebetter. (gene music) - [lyn] i play piano foawhile and 's like u arn chorstructur d you len moving your fgers up d down

anyou learall th stuff, anthen the's a momt ere you tually g to play and the imming ilike plang and u don't ow what the muc's gonnbe until u're outhere. - she presentsoing this at the litf human hievemen ople say"well, w would you im in anrctica?" - she'been stued in e past d has be shown thave a rerkable aptatio - ynne] thscientts ha figuredut at i'm ae to close e blood ow tohe peripral area my bodyeally qukly and ta that bld and put it io myore. - weere ableo confir thathe can mntain stable by temperure with heread out the wat anin wateremperatus as lows 44 fahnheit. 've got e other rson th we knowan do th.

- i swamhe engsh channel en i was5 and 16ears olfrom ela to ance and i oke the n's and women'world rerd each me. i s the fit persono swim acro the strts of mallan the tipf south amica, chi. i wathe firsperson tswim around t capof good hope from t atlantiaround to the iian ocea let's se fit woman swim fromhe northsland to theouth isld acrossook stras, new zeald. (insping strg musi folks srted us imming whene were syoung anit was sething wdid beforee could en walk. coach mbrel noced ght away that athe end the wkout en everye else w tired, was justicking umy pace. i hed about group ofids

thatere goa swim aoss the calina chael. i thoug maybe ii can swimatalina th them, th i canaybe do thenglish annel. there we times toughout the im wheret hurt smuch d i wonded if i'make it, but afr i succded on that im, i just kw that i want to do imore. itas whereverythinbegan. (ipiring sing musi - open war swimmi, because u don't ve a wal th you havto push f of, u don't ve to woy, you're en more discnected fm the wod d even more intern. - well've alwa loved just to in the ean because think th the quiet being ithe wate just y are seting in your n think nk anyou can t in wtever noisyou nt or no i thinthat o of the olest parts ofeing in e ocean is bei ablto swim througa changi sea,

a ace whe u can el all the ergy surunding y. it's a pce where the are limits sot makeyou thinbig. a califoia woman has manad to cro the gap betwn the uned stes and e sovietnion que literay. nne cox,n endurae swmer fromaliforni day beca the fir person evero swim aoss the beng strai fr alaska the sovt union. e water mperatur wa39 degre. (inspiri string sic) peakinin feign lanage) (ipiringtring muc) (speing in feignanguag

udience plauding and 's butiful and 's hard anyou wanto stop and u have pple on brd theoat that urge u on and ep you gng because may change e way thunited states a soviet ion deal wh each oer and mae we'll able to seeach oth as neigors and not enemies nspiringtring muc) noatter whe i go ithe worl ing intohe wateri fe like i'at home. i coulbe anywhe anime ofay or nit, it's liki'm home (ipiring sing musi [ray] i'imaginin i'bringingomeone li almost o's blind the oce. it so poweul when i'm the wat.

you justo wherit kind , it puss you too. harness all the por of thecean d from dp water most bondry in aecond, so it'like an unrwater mntain. 's insan yeah. id say is like eighteet. thatne lookseally bi yeaho it's gna be on d it a risinswell, so it's nna be ctainly intereing to s the lea. photraphy ki of fell my lap. anthat w through a woplace indent.

employment oions are etty limed and in ts area, ning a huge ployer ofveryone ally. 's not le you'rerapped, t it's jt the we-worn patho peopleollow it you're a mer for life. yore havinrockfall u're having gas outs, exosions, ush injues. i st heard ts like sicning cruh and itas my kn d i coul't walk ani couldn drive then i reazed that'm gonna geinto a he here. so i bght a cara, you knowkind of stted workg out thway thatou can manilate themage to h you wt it to . it felso natur. and by t time i'been doi th for sayight wee, myhysio remmende th ita swimmin i had aamera, i s alloweto go inhe ocean and i bought aater houng. it wasind of arazy purase beuse it'sike veral thsand dolrs anyou're kd of ying to ke ends et

'cau you're jured an you can'really dmuch. and it w single-ndedly the bestecision i'veade in mlife. (dramac stringusic) the joury of phography r me staed as a su photogrher. - wh really ts m apart om me is thahe wenand shothe me placeat the se time. the's loadof diffent other otographs, even myself cluded

d we'd ce away wh sothing dierent. as a phographer, yonotice tt when someons got th eye and theyee somhing that youidn't se - whever youut a surr frame ia surfing pictur u have aiteral ptrayal of wt's happing ther ke the sfer out d you'reonna los threferencpoint. ratherhan havi a faual reprentation u kind ohave fictionaone. you co to it, you ing thin to it. and that what i fi in ray'work. heeaves a t ofpace tre r peopleo bring thingso his work - e shot ithe la ing in ahain of evts. itomes fm lookinat weatr maps, nd, tide where the n isonna line up. somemes i'll plan a single st for siweeks. (gene music)

i quit cl mining ne monthago. threason iind of he onto itor so lo, becausit offer like a financl safetyet d it was big, scy thing to turn back on a ekly pcheck. i rang mboss a i thankehim for ving me ani told h that i'not gonna back tohe mine, i'm nogonna gemy tools i'm not nna get helme i'm not gonna get anhing, m gonna ave that whe life tre and m never ing back and i'm nna sht photos of the ean. nspiringusic)

(darstring mic)

- u know ieeded an escapehen i waa kid. it ge me thiamazing ace to eerience fe. was rais by my m. and mom alws taughte to rlly, reay share y jothat youave in yr life. i make ia point, it's kd of likmy duty do what'm doingow. - he iexceptiolly smart ov and beyd,

but he'still 11 ars old. you see woman like gndma shiey, you knowhe took antho en hwas six nths old anyou thinabout wh the reans were for r to do at. thatits me le an arrow the hrt. i real don't knowhat happed, but i ink my gndma kno. doou know? - him anthe moth got intit and ey were parated d she was ying to t him anhe wasn'letting m go. and she proach hiin aaltercion. and th after iwas overith, shcalled t police him d they tk him. anwhile heas there had an thma attk and theyidn't see abo him and at's whe he pass