[upbeat latin-tinged music] - puerto rico. [speaking spanish] it's just a short flight from the mainland. but you can leave your passport at home. puerto rico. it is just a short flight from the mainland but you can leave your passport at home.

despite those who say go back to your own country, puerto rico is part of the u.s. it is not a state but its inhabitants are 100% american. and this right here is the oldest part of the heavily fortified colonial city established in 1521 by none other than and the spanish named it puerto rico, a.k.a. rich port so you can get an idea of what their intentions were for this island. sugar. spices. gold. just a few of the perks the spanish enjoyed for over 400 years until the u.s. treasury to help, you know, liberate the island from the spanish and make it a u.s. commonwealth. that means ardrey kell is neither a common country or a state. they do not have a vote in u.s. presidential elections. despite that, puerto ricans are unstoppable in their cultural impact on the world, massive.

how puerto rico has not only survived but thrived requires a cultural understanding of the island. so that is what we are going to do now. in case you are new to this show, that is like our whole m.o. here. . ♪♪ music has become the love language between the u.s. and puerto rico. from the time of the taínos to the enslaved africans who were brought here later on to modern day, music has been an outlet >> music has become the love language between the u.s. and puerto rico. to the enslaved africans were brought here later on to modern- day, music has been an outlet and a voice of the people.

even the great jazz piner jelly roll morton said you cannot make jazz without certain elements of latin music. let me translate that for you. if it ain't got that latin swing, it ain't a thing. in today's political climate, puerto rico continued that tradition to bring awareness and make change. listen, you all, i am sure by now you have heard of it. back in 2004, daddy made it a household name with his global hit. originated in panama but puerto rico became known for the genre when afro latino artists use the platform to tackle racism and political issues. and, now, the number one artist in the world is bad bunny, who has taken the genre to the next level with i like it featuring cardi b and j. in 2022 alone,

his music had more than 10 billion streams. this art form has become the voice of the next generation, including puerto rican and artists. who bad bunny himself showcased as the next big thing to come out of the reggae tone world. that's hot. - hey. - that's so hot. - you like this? - how are you? - how are you? - how you doing? - how are you doing? oh, my god, that is hot. >> are you doing? >> that bit is hot. >> me, too. i thought it would be over by now though. >> i do not really start.

i feel like now i found it like a space. i sort of dipped my feet and was like the water is nice, and i stayed there. >> so play a little bit. i want to hear it some more. >> that's hot. so how did you get your start? >> well, basically, i started making music with a group called la mamidad. they are doing a lot for that community. they saw something in me. that is my baby. and he is like, i really like what you do and i think i want to give you the space to be more effective. i have a studio so i can just record you. that is how i got my start. >> and has your work changed

from then until now? >> it has been a lot of growing. i still go by the same name. >> the music connective la mamidad helped launch career with early hits like maha. >> and my gender change, my gender expression change. how i understood music changed. the brain changes the way you process data. >> paid off on her hit music sessions number 51 found international success. >> [ singing in a global language ] >> now, you are a huge star. can i say that? you blew up. congratulations. it is pretty amazing for you to be this big a star in puerto

rico and the world. you are a pioneer. and her fame keeps wrong. she recently became the first trans-artist to crack spotify's global top 50. check out her tiktok likes. over 6 million strong. what you attribute your success? >> as a human being, i have had to work like 10 times harder than anyone. i grabbed the seat and i put it at the table. >> now what? i am at the table. >> she is making puerto rico and the world pay attention to the things that matter to her. >> why is it i am 27 years old and i have never saw a trans doctor. you know? a woman who is a trans-woman and a doctor. why make my life so difficult? now, i have a lot more resources that make our stories better. >> what you want to do with your story? how do you want to move it forward? >> now i can just focus on

being a superstar and this person will have to overcome so many of these things to get to where they are. and they are going to look into that and be why is it so hard for these people? at the end of my day, that is something to look to and think about. >> we are doing it for the most part. >> society may be slow in catching up to trans issues. she is saying the things that need to be said. >> obstacles are so many. it is horrible. like horrible. we have death rates that are just like ridiculous. social revolution. literally fighting against patriarchy and mitch ezumah and n a . monarchy. most of the perceptions of what society thinks a woman has to do are ideas that men came up

with. patriarchy. >> is part of the problem that puerto rico is a commonwealth? is that part of the problem? >> it is a farce. it is a fancy term to hide the fact that we are a colony. when you take a nation and you impoverish them and you like destroy their education system, there's a lot of poverty. there is a lot of hunger. all of that ties back to we are a non-educated population. i am giving you a crash course. >> no. no. i love it. puerto rico for dummies. >> we have never been our own country so i can hypothesize. it has taken years to become a more conscious people. >> the earthquake. and yet you are creating great music. that is what i see going through the island. >> i feel like historically we have always been very inclined

to the arts. >> that is were great art comes from. it is sort of a release valve and escapism. >> yeah. escapism. that is the right word. we just make the story prettier and more attractive. there is this magic to it. >> magical realism. making life a little more fun and exciting than it really was. helps us to survive everything. yeah. why not. why not. well, thank you for having me. >> villano a great example of how puerto ricans combined obstacles with art and beauty. and she is far from being alone. being alon e.

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[upbeat latin-tinged music] ♪ - outside the fortress walls of el viejo san juan, you'll find the colorful and very private >> outside the you will find a colorful and very private community of la perra. the settlement was created in the 18th century when the spanish forced nonwhite service to live apart from the rest of the community. it was a rough existence. but the people had a secret. that allow them to express themselves.

communicate. and preserve their culture. bamba. ♪ ♪ >> sure is hot. what are you playing that is so hot? >> bamba. >> mostly bamba was developed around the 1500s to 1600s. >> that early on? wow. >> during the colonization of puerto rico and also before the spanish came here there were a native indigenous people. so bamba is actually a mixture of the different ethnicities that came to the island. >> it is a fingerprint of puerto rico. the enslaved africans created bamba more than 400 years ago,

not only as a form of music but as a way to share secret messages. circuit moves or beats became codes and can be a protest or even a shout out if there was something like rebel. now, when the colonizers finally got a clue about subversive messages buried in the beats, the ongoing battle to silence movements of independence began and have continued into modern times. >> implemented in like the '50s. >> 1950s. >> arrest people. it was not permitted. bamba represents that resistance to oppression by governments or other countries as well. >> held onto it. >> they kept it together and kept the bamba going but in private spaces. >> puerto ricans have been facing colonialism for five centuries. the u.s. took the reins from spain in 1898. since then, whenever there has been a push to become an

independent nation, both the u.s. and puerto rican governments have said not so fast. i mean, get this. you see this flag? pretty. right? but as recently as the 1950s, it was against the law to fly it anywhere in the country. why? it was a sign of independence. the band is gone now but so is the original flag. the blue is meant to match the good old stars and stripes but bamba has survived. it is incredible how sometimes culture can disappear and then people can bring it back to life for a whole new existence. >> with bamba, we actually have the drums. we have two . one that keeps the roof going. and we also have primo. he is the one who actually provides notes on the drum. there is also the batey, which

is the space where replay. the center of the community. anybody from the community can come learn and play. >> it is open. very open. batey. >> every friday, we played our hearts out. >> we can take you there. >> i would like to show you some steps. >> what is it? >> if i were to be dancing, i say hello to the drummer and i would move. >> yo, this is totally off the chain. there is a common response between dancer and drummer. you're not dancing to their beats. the drummer plays the beats echo with your steps. >> he has to keep up with you? >> do what he is doing. >> every rhythm has its stat.

this one is the basics that. side. point. side. now point. side. there you go. that is a basic step. now, we are going to move to this pace. we call this el pascao. let's start carrerita. there we go. four. five. six. and, now, jump. >> so you good? you real good? >> yep. yeah. let's go. >> now, you will see all the people gathering here and they will sing their heart out all

night long. >> [ singing in a global language ] >> walking towards the batey, this an emotional experience. and it is easy to see how this community has kept bamba alive by continuing to pass it down to future generations. >> [ singing in a global language ] >> but it is when you join in that you really start to get it. feel ♪♪ he>> with every slap of the

drums, you start to feel the heartbeat of this place. through dance, song, and music, people here both tell stories and experience them. they become a part of them. even this space, the batey, connects them directly to the indigenous roots of this island. a reminder to never forget the past. ♪ (cough cough) (sneeze) (♪♪) >> [ singing in a global language ] [ singing in a global la nguage ] or flu fizzy chew. fizz. feel better fast. no water needed.

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most important pre-columbian archaeological sites in the world, the ceremonial grounds. a sacred place for the people who thrived here until the 15th century before colonizers like columbus arrived on the island and change the course of history. some archaeologists argue that the bloodline no longer exists. i believe that, too. even mentioned in my show latin history for morons. so columbus enslaves all until he exterminates them. and that, my lovely morons, is called the caribbean holocaust. and that is the end end of their time on earth.but here is the thing. after my show, i got a letter from a woman who said, hold on a minute, she is very much alive. so i met with some members of her tribe to educate myself. >> [ speaking in a global language ]

>> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> historians in the pr government claim that people have been conquered and wiped out, but insists that is a mess. >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] can you tell us where exactly are we here? >> this is one of our ceremonial centers. and unfortunately we continue to struggle to be able to manage and care take this space. our government has basically

said it is there's and there is no more native people here so they are the ones to take care of it. they see this as a dead place. those stones that you see are live things. they are not just stones. you know? every part of this area is sacred. >> it is a fight of indigenous people all up north and south and central america to protect their lands, to get respect, to get something back from what was stolen. >> so how many taino are living today? 61% of puerto ricans have traced taino dna. here is the thing. the puerto rican government does not recognize the existing members as an active tribe because the percentage of dna in their blood is not high enough to qualify. at least acknowledgment. what chance do the taino people have of getting their

ancestral lands? >> we fought really hard around the issue of the privatization of taino because we understood very clearly that it was a test . let me calm down a second. this illegal that has been imposed here by the united states would have decided to sell it off. our sacred sites are not for sale. >> strong language is a sentiment shared by many of the puerto ricans on the island as well. they make you feel as if politics has put taino at risk of being developed for commercial use. for decades, the people of puerto rico have taken their fight around the world asking for help from various organizations including the u.n. and while their voices have been heard, still no formal decisions have been made. so their hope is to be recognized as an official tribe. but how do you validate your existence? what evidence does the

government need? >> you think the dna test helps? >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> right. i had a feeling. >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> mixed race people are one major side effect of colonization and being latino means that you are intrinsically of mixed blood. but who gets to decide how much of your dna makes you part of any one community? if indigenous blood is measured as proof of tribal membership, then depending on who sets the standard ship, membership can also be denied. q&a alone is not as valuable as the stories and traditions passed down from their families. and the ceremonial center is a big part of that.

>> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> thank you. surrounded by their ancestors, this traditional ceremony is meant to bond our relationship as friends by making me a part of the community. as the oath exchange began i felt instantly transported. with each gust of cleansing smoke, i felt a deeper connection to this place and its people. >> [ speaking in a global language ] [all shouting, chanting] - it's a powerful feeling that overtakes you.

♪♪ >> now, you are us, and we argue. >> it is a powerful feeling that overtakes you. i felt like, you know, ancestors calling on me. it is very powerful. >> don't find it weird if you start dreaming about ancestors because once you acknowledge them they find a way of communicating. >> bring it. bring at. give me some wisdom. i will take it. it is clear how important it is to native people. it is my hope it can continue to be used by the taino people as a gathering place for generations to come and for this point forward i will carry the words with me. we are not ghosts. we are not extinct. that is a mess. s a mess. skin feel so sd moisturized. olay body wash & lotion. discover yours.

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a[suspenseful music] with no grit ♪nd no flavor. [wind howling] [upbeat latin-tinged music] ponce was the capital of the south coast of puerto rico under spanish rule until the u.s. took the reins in 1898, relocating the center of commerce the capital under spanish rule until the rest of the reins in 1898. relocated the center of commerce tucson one. this colonial city was one of the areas hit hardest by

hurricane maria in 2017. earthquake in 2020 and then again by hurricane fiona in 2022. i am meeting with community advocate javier de jesus martinez. >> many buildings were damaged primarily because of the hurricanes. some of the buildings that were hit were hit again by the earthquake. it was double damage and there is a whole process of reconstruction going on right now. >> really? can we restore all these buildings? will we be able to do them all? >> there are things that are already back into construction. but the process of reconstructing a city region, you have to consider the emotion, the culture, the identity of a place in order to rebuild it. if you're not considering

those, you will have a ghost down. i love cities. i grew up in cities. i tried to develop the cities in terms of the culture. also, the fault the faul at city. so i have e'rea relationship. >> what is the difference between old pensie and the one we are seeing today? >> the commercial capital. so the port was responsible for bringing balance from europe and having those into the islands. a cultural hub. >> your equal distance from south america and the u.s. is the first country that you had as you're coming from europe. >> music with architecture. after the change in sovereignty, many, many reported issues in the conversations shifted that activity into the port of psalm one.

we have an economical crisis, so it is not just the port. it is old puerto rico. it is finance and ecology. >> so how do we guide puerto rico out of this situation that it is in? it gets hit by a hurricane and it gets hit by an earthquake. i mean, all these things are devastating. >> i think identity, community, and culture are the foundation for us, you know, to rebuild into the future. >> what you mean by that? >> as we go back to the days after those disasters, when there's no satellite, when there's no internet, when there is no tv, all we had was community, culture, and our identity. >> right. because you did not get the fema funding. >> it was a very long process to get the reconstruction done. >> who could forget the infamous towel incident after donald trump thought he was handing out swag after the

disastrous hurricane maria. clearly, that was not the kind of help people needed. when fiona hit in 2022, the u.s. stepped up and made a $66 million pledge to the recovery. actually getting the money to the people is a slow process and puerto ricans needs are still not being met. >> puerto rico has three paths. right? one is staying a commonwealth. going to statehood. or going towards independence. so what is going to make the u.s. care about what is going on here? >> a basic fundamental problem in puerto rico. in order for a society to develop, the capacity of that group of people. so, if you're not allowing a group of people making decisions, then you are allowing them to be completely colonized for the rest of their lives. in the case of puerto rico,

right now, that political division is still fragmenting the different indentations of society. >> you mean those who want commonwealth? those who want independence. so everybody is fighting against each other. 52% of the island for statehood and 47% against it. but despite the different perspectives, there is still a tremendous sense of humanity in puerto rico. >> issues are very important. here, we realize we have the capacity of getting together, sitting down, looking to each other, and realizing, you know what, if we are going somewhere that is because we decided. and puerto ricans, we have passed that moment. participation. it is difficult. this is not something that will happen a day and in a week. but if we listen and we are civilized, the right stories, the ones that are really constructing the new future

puerto rico, that is what puerto ricans have to decide. i want my country to be an independent country. that can have negotiations with the united states and the rest of the world. that is fantastic. yes. it is going to be difficult. >> i just think there has to be a choice in made. i more selfish because i grew up in the states so i want puerto rico to be a state. >> it is never too late. if we have performed great on the past, it means there is blood, there is identity, there is a proud in puerto rico. i am pretty sure from the ashes they are going to come out a new era. i am passionate about it. >> come back and see a beautiful thriving place. >> i am pretty sure i will. >> thank you. you educated me. in december 2022, the u.s.

house of representatives passed a bill come the first of its kind, that would allow puerto rico to hold a binding vote that would hold three options. statehood. independence. our sovereignty with free association. there are still roadblocks but this would be a huge step in recognizing the puerto rican should have a say about their status and their future. and t. . feel better fast. no water needed. new alka-seltzer plus fizzychews. what's up, you seem kinda sluggish today. things aren't really movin'. you could use some metamucil. metamucil's psyllium fiber helps keep your digestive system moving so you can feel lighter and more energetic. metamucil keeps you movin'. and try fizzing fiber plus vitamins.

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recent disasters and it is easy to see that the people of this city still know how to bring the party. like many places around the world, puerto rico celebrates. but a mischievous character steals the show in the hearts of the community. and the art form of making masks is so important here that it has its own museum. >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> i met up with a volunteer who teaches visitors about ponce's celebration and of course it's star. >> it is a character who participates. his purpose is to bring joy, happiness. he usually does that do dancing and music. he chases little kids and scares them. >> so not the mask.

the wearer at the ceremony. >> having the horns. being covered from head to toe. not recognizable. >> the tradition began in medieval spain and made its way to puerto rico 300 years ago, where communities like ponce made at their own . >> masks can be in many different sizes. it can be made with many different colors. it can be made with many different material. here, we exhibit a mask that is made out of a seed from a tree. and its purpose is to keep evil spirits away from the home. >> i guess, the scarier the mass, the better job you do keeping. >> the gargoyles on churches. same job. >> artist who created these masks, santiago, is a huge force in ponce's culture. when he died, the community banded together to preserve his

art. >> they just wanted to throw everything away. and then my grandfather and his colleague came forward to the family and they were like, hey, i don't think this is the wisest choice. so they decided to donate the house to make this a museum. every city has their own carnaval, and there was not a museum to educate people who came to visit. and it was such a magical thing. >> materials in each mask are connected to the artist's community. ponce masks carry a distinctive platform. these masks are used to celebrate carnaval, also known as mardi gras or fat tuesday. this week-long celebration, a whole week of partying is when ponce really lets its hair down. these festivals are often accompanied by another personal puerto rican art form.

music originated in pensie and is famous all over the island for its response lyrics that can date back more than a century. the instruments are born from native and african individuals. today, a local band has gathered with the community to show us how carnival is celebrated here in ponce. and guess who is going to join in the festivities? >> bye bye. i am no longer john anymore. >> [ singing in a global language ] [ singing in a global language

] >> now, let me tell you, the spirit and beauty of ponce and its people is something i have long admired from afar but being smack in the middle of it is a whole other thing. this timidity like all others in puerto rico is proud of who it is. the people persist. they thrive. and more importantly they stay true to themselves. that was great. i almost had a heart attack. but it was worth it . i can't wait to come back and see this city rebuilt to its own glory. the people of ponce deserve it . it . you should use it every wash, otherwise the flakes will come back. —he's right, you know. is that tiny troy? the ingredients in head and shoulders keep the microbes that cause flakes at bay.

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no water needed. - i'm heading east from ponce to a town called juncos, a farming community known for its fertile soil and natural beauty. it's in the foothills of this region >> this community is restknown its fertile soil and natural beauty. let me tell you, this is not just any restaurant. it is widely considered one of the best restaurants in the world. what a pleasure. thank you. yeah. what a beautiful spot this is.

a beautiful breeze. a beautiful location. >> we were looking to our homag this is a place where we can look back and also at the same time see the future. >> traditional recipes that your mom, your grandparents, a jumping off place. >> we have been sponsoring farmers. and puerto rican cuisine because puerto rican cuisine has evolved. it is not simply rice and beans. we have a lot of people from many other places. >> like a pan- latin kind of a fusion? >> yes. >> we have two words. koa used to work the land. and opened fire. so ba koa.

that is what we do here. now you are here so let's see you do something in the kitchen. >> i am too cash. >> why so busy? >> okay. >> all right. all right. >> i have been hearing about the koa for a long time and getting an invite to mess around in their kitchen is something i do not take lightly. though i played a chef in a movie once, let me tell you i am no chef in real life. >> this is a very humble dish. >> my father used to tell me it was a dish and we didn't have any money. survival food. it is basic. cornmeal. coconut water. coconut milk. and whatever else you can find. coconut milk and coconut water.

this year is very similar to la blancha. >> the grill. >> a wood fire grill. >> nothing like wood fire. >> you want to whisk it? >> nothing whisked. i am working it, my brother. i am working it. >> in the u.s., we might call it grits. or if you go to italy, you call them valencia. >> where does it all come from? our people. all corn products are hours. right? >> another little food factoid to you. it originated right here in the caribbean with the taino people who called it babacor. >> remember everything that we do was with wood fire?

i have had grits all my life. but this is way better than any grits i have ever had. >> this is what we are doing. we are just dealing with the texture. it is the same stuff. just different texture. it is all about the luxe. >> oh, my god. >> you can call it whatever. this is where we are going. >> it is amazing how the passion for the past has allowed the chef to create forward leaning dishes. the same humble ingredients they have loved all their lives. >> going to be in my kitchen. >> i am going to set it up for you. >> found himself back in his home of puerto rico with fungal. bringing the ingredients of this tropical paradise to the

world. >> we started playing with our local swordfish. we need some oil. that too much oil or is that enough? then we are going to finish. >> so we are going to sear the layers. walk in the freshness. and then they get through. >> these are sweet potato leaves. like sweet chard. and people are going to believe that you are a really, really, really good chef. >> i don't know. i kinda feel like the chefs out here did not have me do any of the actual cooking. you know how the saying goes. if you cannot take the heat, get out of the kitchen. i am ready for some of that fine food. you cleaned up well. sit down. sit down. >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> [ speaking in a global

language ] >> [ speaking in a global language ] >> our parents experienced poverty or our grandparents experienced poverty and then it gets trickled down through the memories and destroy talen. a nostalgia for what they want to do. that is why food chains remind you of when your parents struggled. >> it is difficult. really. it does need more work. when you don't have gas and you have got to do it all by a wood fire. >> let me tell you, this is the swordfish with the leaf and tomatoes and brown butter. and this is a smoked pork and then we did fry it in the wood fire oven with a bunch of ovens . and this is one of the first dishes that we ever put in there. >> yep. i don't know if the camera is doing this to justice because this is some of the most

beautiful food i have ever seen. it is the kind of meals your eyes get to enjoy as much as your mouth. >> so good. we are really grateful for having you here. >> your generosity. your friendship. it is beautiful, man. as i start to unpack my journey through puerto rico, and reflect on the incredible people i have met here, it is clear that sharing identity is important. this island and its people are all working to preserve and protect their roots in history from the indigenous tainos whose language, food, and traditions still love on, to the contributions so many african peoples made to this island. puerto rico is a rich port in the. in the.

- you know how they used to say the streets of new york were paved with gold? and then wave after wave of immigrants came here to make their lives better for themselves. the you know when the immigrants came here to make their lives better for themselves, the irish the italians, they all got neighborhoods named after them.