a comes to an engagement, it was the trail. when so many find themselves, well the more we choose to look for common ground. a with with a, with a grain already. a lot of them bought, but she can't afford them. boss will grow you love,

you are going to go to your business hours. they leave a with us a personal number of years. we're to with a social media has given birth to many trends from viral make. a looks to crazy shopping halls and insane challenges like the infamous tortillas lap . but it has also given rise to fast fashion as these influencers need to rotate outputs quickly. in order to keep up with their content. fast fashion refers to

clothes that are designed quickly and cheaply to keep up with trends. things like czar barbara 21 h and, and she and, and others. and while. 7 historically, fashion trends lasted about a decade. the cycle is now much faster lasting only 35 months. i'm because the i and you're watching the cost of everything. where today we're going to be looking at the fast fashion industry and the true cost of this fast paced life cycle and how it affects production to the environment. ah, the fast fashion is quite the thing from other retailers as these be, tell us design, produce and deliver fashion goods to consumers in significantly less time given their agile supply chains. fast fashion retailers, legs are on

h a. m r generating successful financial results when compared to non fast fashion retailers are only generating 7 percent profit margins. fast fashion retailers are 16 percent profit margins more than doubled, that of comparable stores. so how did they achieve such high margins? well, fast fashion aims to reduce the processes involved in the buying cycle and lead times for getting new products into stores to satisfy customer demand at its peak. because the markets are changing rapidly, the success or failure of the stores is largely determined by the organizations, flexibility and responsiveness. first, the agents for fast fashion companies are always scouting out new fashion, trends, clubs, and social scenes. when they find something they like, they quickly sketch it, send it out to design studios, and garments can be designed and sent out to stores in a matter of 4 to 6 weeks. this fast turnaround is achieved in several ways.

companies like czar by large quantities of only a few types of fabrics, just 4 or 5 different types, but they can change it year to year. they do all the garment design and cutting and dying in house, so that the process is condensed. each design is made in a short production run in order to create scarcity of the given design and generates a sense of urgency to buy while supplies last. this way, it can also manage excess inventory. sheehan is also a juggernaut in the fast fashioned space. it doesn't work with very large factories, but instead relies on small to mid size workshops that pickup orders daily. it is very much like an over system where new orders are always coming into factories, owners, phones, when, when they receive an order. it is incredibly efficient with over $6000.00 clothing factories. styles are optimized with chance internal software which connects to its

entire business from design to delivery. and it contains very simple design, specifications that help manufacturers execute new orders quickly. a big brand might need a very high end designer or a designer with top technology. and even then may only be able to produce $20.00 to $30000.00 a month, but shan does not have high design requirements. so a typical university student could get started designing quickly. and because of the variety of styles that she and demands suppliers that have already have a range of production capabilities and function more like a factory, have an easier time working with the company. this agile business model has allow the company to persevere through a number of challenges from worth of intentions, between the u. s. and china, global supply chain slowdowns and the ongoing pandemic. whereas are on the other hand, typically as manufacturers to turn around minimum orders of 2000 items in 30 days.

she and ask for as you, as a 100 products and as little as 10 days in both cases, factories need to be highly nimble in order to compete in the fast fashion space and satisfy the short trans cycles. so now let's bring in dr. patsy perry, author, researcher and fashionista. so patchy fast fashion has always been a trend now with the popularity of instagram and tick tock. do you see this trend going anywhere or will the industry just continue down this path because it is so convenient and affordable? yes, as question is really influenced the entire fashion industry really in terms of speeding up product life cycle, speeding up the rate of change on the number of trends that we're, we're seeing and that we buying into whether that's kind of low market level luxury designer. i think everyone really is now producing too much, which is leading to

a consumption and not keeping things very long. the cost and the price is a major part of a consumers decision when they evaluate what to buy. how can a consumer be attracted to a, say durable piece of clothing that costs $5.00 times more than a fast fashion piece? that is often an easy impulse buy. is really hard, isn't it? because we often don't see the extra value of something that's more expensive. and often now we're seeing some of the fast pressure retailers offering and brands offering some kind of sustainable collections and sustainable capture ranges. so that when you see something this 5 times more expensive, you don't know what the extra is paid for. and obviously for a lot of people struggling with the cost of living increases and so on, you know this, there's only so much that you can stretch to, to purchase. i think, being offered low price products. it's, you know, irresistible, isn't this? it's really hard to say, no,

i'm not going to buy that. i'm going to save up and buy a few best things. it's just so easy to get into that cycle of buying lots of cheaper items and offer, you know, not everyone's able to save up and purchase that one thing. it's not always accessible to people who so what are the margins like for fast fashion companies versus traditional fashion companies? are they more profitable these days? to be honest, i couldn't comment on the margins, but i think it's really a case of just selling more stuff and making your revenue based on the volume. so you're selling a lot more items at lower prices, a rule, but the volume of things that you sell being that you're, you're making that march in that way. often they're made of, you know, cheap fabrics, cheaply manufactures for a quality your ability. longevity is not built into them. so they, they, they pay to be quite cheap. you know, if we look more carefully at them,

sometimes you think the fabric construction is not so you know, elegance and, and so on. so, you know, they really are made for, for pennies when the economy, the way it is and people starting to save and consume less, people are going to be spending less on impulse buys and discretionary items like clothing. what companies do you think will be the most impacted fast fashion or traditional fashion companies? i think that you know, when, when the purse strings are being tightened, you know, we can't always afford to spend on those kind of mid market companies. so it may be the actually, all you can afford is to, you know, replace clothes for yourself or the kids sorts hefa by buying from those fast russian companies. but i think people will be little more discerning and they will be looking for things that again, alas, because they can't afford it to buy somebody just to i want for a night out. but they going to want things that they can maybe style in different ways and that is going to work for, you know,

they were going out and so on. and they might be a little bit more discerning about, you know, the quality of things that are going to wash well and, you know, kids are not going. i, so grab them or destroy them too quickly. thank you so much patsy. patty will be joining us after the break, but while we come back while fast fashion is cheap for the consumer, the long term cost on society can be very expensive. we'll explain more after the break i ah, ah, in luis, the counter russian state. little never, i've stayed as i'm phoning most landscape div asking him knocking off all sons and that for me he could been assist. babbled. it's been okay. so mine is coupon

speaking with we've will van in the european union the kremlin. yup. machines. the state aren't russia to date and split ortiz sport that even our video agency, roughly all band on youtube with a question. did you think it would cost with oh, during the 2nd world war and nazi occupied, poland, virginia was a farming region. today. it's part of ukraine between 1943 and 945 members of the ukrainian insurgent army led by step on bendara. nasa could thousands of poles and bohemia in

a diabolical ethnic cleansing process. the mergers were particularly horrific and brutal villages were burned and property looted. valinda massa is without doubt one of the bloodiest episodes in polish ukrainian history, while ukrainian politicians still reluctant to talk about these events, how to modern day ukraine and poland view. this tragedy of the past, and why does the memory of valeria stewart divide? people think i'm rick sanchez and i'm here to play with you. whatever you do, do not watch my new shelf seriously. why watch something that's so different. my little opinions that you won't get anywhere else work if it pleases you to have the state department to see a weapons makers, multi $1000000000.00 corporations, choose your facts for you. go ahead by change and whatever your group don't watch my show, stay main street, because i'm probably gonna make you uncomfortable. my show is called direct impact,

but again, you probably don't want to watch it because it might just changing the wayne thing . oh well, she's news munoz cards and like if you speak russian, keep your voice down while out and about like about a quarter. don't put your human symbols on display a little space each night. all right, so you guys my bottom don't talk to strangers. 7 i avoid noisy gatherings with them in them. what are your colleagues and perhaps also your friends think you're guilty because you'll russian much, naya the bomb. so what can i do?

that was my mistake, it so glad to with being you did t a by mutual evidence of she to party specific struggle short time. mm. welcome back. we are discussing the cost of fashion. and while fast fashion is cheap for the consumer, the long term cost on the society can be very expensive. something as basic as buying a t shirt can directly impact someone halfway around the world and the chemicals that are used to die, the fabric, polluting the waterways. the human environment program claim that the fashion industry is the 2nd highest for water consumption and makes up approximately 8 to 10 percent a global carbon emissions. clothing production is already at an all time high with

brands like zora producing over a $140000000.00 garments a year. and with zora. you know that if you don't buy it right then and there, within 11 days, the entire stock will change. because the price are so low, you'll probably end up buying it there and have immediate gratification. take talk has played a large part in these company success. while hall videos, which depict people showing off new pieces are immensely popular. these 20 pieces will likely fall out of style quickly as fast fashion companies sacrifice quality for inventory. this means that these items will unlikely survive more than 10 wash cycles before falling apart. on top of that, most cheap clothes are made of synthetic fibers, like nylon or polyester that are created from oil or coal. they won't be composed for hundreds of years and one washed. they released tiny, microscopic pieces of plastic,

which find their ways into the oceans. and even our bodies, on average, a piece is worn 7 times before being discarded or given away to charities that won't take them anymore. this also means that the majority of these close and up in landfills currently approximately 85 percent of textiles are discarded in the us. only about 13 percent of clothing and shoes are recycled and globally, we are expected to discard more than a 134000000 tons of textiles annually by 2030. that means that $100000000000.00 worth of materials is lost every year as less than one percent of textiles produced for clothing is recycled into new clothing. fast fashion has also caused ethical problems and developing nations like gonna, the u. s. textile waste has created a salvage market in recipient countries like gonna, or they can re purpose clothing. however much of fast fashion is so cheap and of

poor quality that it simply cannot be reused. this ends up polluting ghani, and market places, beaches and dumps. and in order to make clothing as cheap as possible, the fashion industry harnessed the cheap labor in countries such as cambodia, my am our vietnam and bangladesh. and in fact, bangladesh as minimum wage is one of the world's very lowest, as we just continue to rise in china. so it has increasingly become an attractive place to may close. it is now the 2nd largest garment export in the world, and to day 97 percent of apparel and foot where items are made overseas where cheap labor is exploited. and for more let's bring in again dr. patsy perry, author, researcher, and fashionista. so patsy, what is the average wage for sowers and garment manufacturer? workers in these countries? i think you can find something like a proportion of, you know, how,

how much money does say missed is, are make her 2nd compared to how much she's worked making a year. i'll maybe have a home out and find something for you. but i don't know that there's a global average because it depends on the country, but it's, it's very little. now it looks like a lot of clothing manufacturing has moved out of china. so what is kind of replacing its capabilities with, say, china, asynchronous economies developing the, you know, the evolving, it's more of a knowledge based economy and they don't want to be making cheap, dirty, fast fashion anymore. you know, that's maybe what they started out asked. but now this of the work is the more skilled, the younger generation don't want to work in a factory, sat behind say, machine all day. they want to be working and i had off face to electronics or something like that. so those industries will then move on to the next cheapest place or they'll move kind of in latins but you know, china such a big country fuel. but she's quite atlantic might take

a long time to get to put it out to the, the port to the, the airport. so obviously it's not always make sense to kind of move that around the move to another low cost labor country. and they don't want to be bringing all that pollution to their country, making stuff either for domestic consumption offer you know, export because really we've kind of externalized all about pollution to other countries that produce the governance for us. and as fast fashion production lend itself to other industries like the toy industry, are we going to see cheaply manufactured products like toys and plastic goods proliferating? i guess we would have done yet, but i think the tide is turning and you know, people are seeing the negative in of too much plastic al and you know, we have lots of cheap throwaway, plastic things. so many countries we see in a plastic bags carry bikes, get out of fashion, plastic straws, of state disposable cutlery and so on. because it all finds its way into the

environment, the, you know, that the waterways and so on. and it's never good. is it? so i think that the tides, the tide will turn. and also if you're buying things for your case, you don't wanna, you know, buy t cheap because you don't want to break him in a hardware child or whatever. so think you might be more conscious if you're buying things for the children that you do have that certain level of quality. your ability of safety is really important in terms of how it's made and what is made from. and now how, how consumers think about the true cost of fast fashion, given all the widespread environmental and social impacts? i think we, we need to question, why think so cheap and you know what the reasons are for it being so cheap, but it's normally because somebody or some think he's paying the cost for that. whether it's work in a factory, it a little labor cost country, whether it's the environment being polluted, because there's no way to,

to really make things well and make them up such a low cost. so i think we just need said, if we're able to just be a little bit more discerning and try to buy your best to things really be a bit more conscious about what we're buying and making sure that we kind of buying it. not just about 11 less, you know, the best way really to kind of think about what you already have tried to make more of what you already have. how can you, where things in different ways because certainly in the u. k wardrobes bulging with and warm clothing and yet we still cannot stop shopping. and it's really thinking about how you can maximize the effectiveness, submit the use of your existing war trip rather than just buy more will new stuff. but i was quite hard today because all of the marketing messages about temp need to buy more new stuff. you know, even 2nd hands consignment retail site, that the email marketing is always about. come on, have a look when you collections and so on. so it's really hard to kind of re call from

us and, you know, we look at what's in your water ape and try to make more use of fast. and even though consumers are aware of these costs, do you think it is enough to change consumer behavior when fast fashion is just like fast food, cheap and convenient? gotten worse because it's faster and there's more more of that. so there's much more choice now as of now you've got all of the online, super fast fresh retailers, as well as the ones with physical store. so really, the, the original ones have for 21. even. you might say they're kind of like slow 3 to 5 passions retail because to the online ones like shine, who and so on. so much faster, so much more responsive to what's happening in the market place. and i have a huge amount of data that they can use from being online and seeing what people are buying, what they're searching for, what gains people, baskets,

and so on the iep. it would be hard to get that information through a physical store. so they, they have the advantage really making small runs and you know, testing lots of new designs in society and consume, the increasingly holding believes that these problems to account really. and nobody wants to fill in my backyard and equally, it's not right to have these landfills in other countries that always have a lot choice about what, what is some back. so i think it's increasingly distasteful and people, you know, asking for better behavior from these problems. and also legislation is mean up in many countries. but really we can't rely on voluntary action from corporations. but it needs to be legislated, but things are getting straighter. so i do have hope and i think you know,

consume us, you know, material good, do not bring the turtle joy and happiness. we know that's anyway. we still buy into it, but it's ready by experiences. you know, relationships with friends, with family experiences and you know, nature going to night, trove locked down. so it's not really about buying laser laser more new stuff. it's, it doesn't really make you happy to. so i think when you can wean yourself off of thoughts, you can actually save a lot of money that you might have been wasted by now shopping every week or every month for buying stuff that really needs you don't get lost if you start off on. so, you know, channeling about money into other activities. thank you so much patsy. for joining us today. the fashion industry has been stagnant for quite some time, but fast fashion has employed 300000000 people globally and has grown to a 1.3 trillion dollar industry. the fashion industry is complex and there is no

central figure to blame for the perceived injustice. in fact, much of it is actually consumer driven, as customers are the ones willing to pay 76 percent of full price. so to deliver on what the consumer wants, fashion brands need to find ever more creative ways to cut costs, reduce wages and set harsh terms for production, which leads to ramp and labor abuses at the garment. factories. suppliers are also squeezed so hard financially that they are incentivized to cut costs in any way possible. however, change is coming to the fashion industry. as a handful of brands are shining, the spotlight on a more sustainable model. these brands like patagonia market and durable clothing and accessories made with sustainable materials. patagonia market the brand to make consumers aware of the downsides of fast fashion, and instead encourages customers to purchase less and only when needed. other

brands are working towards a circular system up production and consumption by taking customers close back and putting them to new use or making them out of 100 percent recyclable materials. i'm christy. i thanks for watching and we'll see you back here next time on the cost of everything i i use no man wasn't super reboot bombing in. so you know this it will vehicle car yet no blood sauce that was to be fish. she did so do you know that i'm not sure let us, but that's our growth net that was on the indian. when all the di discount for joseph miss alex is launching on. i

was in the book says that it will be almost a month. you may still have to remember where to get things in listening. that's what you just give me serious. and so for me, for us dollars on a box which i use but in a 2nd, a little pause, even though lynch is going out of the sky. good, jenna assistant image does not say on the equation. ask you, i'm sure political simone, i said a lot to us on the saw, the english american lost so much, much missing a store to see that should be, it is a, you know, the run up the year after they were there is not on the poll much she's planning to run away and help me.

ah, ah, for generations people have been coming here to case of to get healthy, taking advantage of the mineral waters and the fresh air. today the city is at the forefront of cutting edge research, helping athletes, not by utilizing that in, but by depriving them from it. today we are speaking to the head of the innovation center of the russian, the olympic committee, world renowned trainer, alexander christian. ah, louis, senator gorda is thrown in the old hon and the snow falls apart. oscar in wisconsin. the last dance, half filled idealists when sprung from ours, from them to lower the do it in b t machine you give to way in the politicians kills on the edge.

on the brown asia the or was to live it. i'm done with this in a little bolcom in the crucial chest middle school was leaving us with the moon is no, but it's good. p t d still not off. what you to do with the leukemia. well, they knew they were with us, she was we can you video to fix that will be to go with us, but nonetheless, he should be missed. they meet in the middle south and you can give us his net that did he thought he is a battle sort of miss dempsy this material. but in the stone tossed, even in the so clay unit should update those slide l b. we still owe me it doesn't help with me. she go. she returned with a note up there. numerous mary answer to it almost all his emotional specially to renew the lease is up and you need to look

a little doing fish. mm ah ah hello and welcome to cross talk where all things are considered. i'm peter lavelle . you k defense secretary ben wallace recently said i'm optimistic between this year and the next year. i think ukraine will continue to have the momentum with it and a position of strength. he also said there's no magic wand moment when russia collapses in what universe does wallace reside? ah.