[000:00:00;00] the silk has been synonymous with luxury decadence elegance. it has a reputation for richness and has caught real significance as a valuable commodity used to dress royalty, and the aristocracy for centuries, china has held a monopoly on silk which quickly became the most important luxury fabric. in all of europe, even today, soak is highly valued for his legacy, judy and exoticism. i'm christiane, you're watching the cost of everything we're today. we're going to unravel the great silk trade industry.

the oldest cell production dates back to china where it has been produced since 4000 b. c cell production and china was standardized throughout the centuries. where you have cellphones gorging on mulberry leaves to encourage them to begin spinning their cocoons from there. the coons are weighed and sorted and salt and boiling water to unravel them so they can be strong into schools which can then be made into so fabrics in china is still the number one producer of modern cells with as much as 90 percent of the world soak coming from asia. now the modern silk industry generates about $3000000000.00 of revenue per year, or about a $150000.00 metric tons of silk are produced each year. in contrast, your basic cotton commodity produces 25000000 metric tons annually. because of its limited production quantity, so commands a much higher price on the international market. in 2021 rossville costs over

$30.00 per kilogram. while your basic marina will cost just $10.00 per kilogram. now there are several insects that produce silk fiber proteins, but the preferred insect is the domestic. so for him, after hatching. so farms will eat constantly and must be fed at least twice a day on a specific type of mulberry we. white. mulberry leaf is a believe to encourage the best so production these so forms need to collectively consume about a 140 kilograms of mulberry leaves just to produce one kilogram of ross. so, after one to 2 months, the silver alarms will start to build their cocoons, the coon waiving containing days and during this time the cell form produces one continuous strand of cells that wrap the self inside of which when unraveled can be stretched out to be 3 fourths of

a mile long. this process will take between 3 to 8 days in which the cell 4 rotates his body in a bigger right movement around 300000 times. it takes about $5000.00 so wants to produce one kilogram of raw silk or about $3000.00 cocoons to produce only one yard of fabric. after the cocoons are collected, they're boiled in water to kill the cell for. the coon is then on welding a process known as reeling which can be done by hand or by machine. these individual strands of fiber optics, freely spin and fragile, so they need to be wild together with other fibers to increase the tensile springs . the resulting product is ross, so which is then made into skins before being made into yard or fabric. the raw silk is graded into 11 categories from 6 a through f. the grading takes into account factors like size, deviation,

cleanliness, neatness tends the city a long day sion and any defects. 6 a is the highest possible grade unless the one percent of chinese raw silk is graded. at this level, france, italy and japan have develop reputations for making the finest so tech styles that come in the highest prices because of all the work and manual labor that goes into making it. so fabrics can cost over a $100.00 a yard before they're even made into anything at heritage mills in europe and asia . the fabric itself can go for more than $300.00 a yard. high quality salt has an instantly recognizable bloss, an extremely less stress and smooth without feeling overly slick. it naturally circulates air for a cooling effect, but can also help insulate the heat coming off of the body. but there is a country that will surprise you as one of the main leaders. and so it's production

and that is in the american continent. with this in mind, let's bring in joelle bear do chair of the valet to set a institute to now it takes us by surprise that brazil is a self producer even though it is not a per zillion tradition. what makes brazilian so a high quality product or a well, it's a the way those 2 is producing here. we produce to compare 0, using the technology. i know what, what is the most up to date? it's technology that has been developed in japan in the last uh, i can say 70 years. and uh, we have in brazil a good climate. and we, we, our farmers have learned with only with the conditions how to do and how to produce choke. and. busy they have no uh, issue knowledge. uh,

let's say they have not learned with the, with grandparents with parents as they have learned with the conditions and the kind of, uh, the quality of the super warm that is being developed for them is the highest quality possible and is the of the suit warm that these are suitable to produce a high quality. so let's go with the resistance and the end, the strength of the strength and the foundation aspects. so we haven't here, good climate, and the kind of people and a company that is said that is now in the market as the company that produces the best. so can the world and how the international sales price is fluctuate and what are some of the drivers behind these fluctuations? yes, uh yeah, the who uh, the silk is uh connect to this link and. busy the consumption of uh,

luxury items outside uh, china and outside area. uh, if you get to the chinese uh, seal production and indian super that should, it will take about 96 percent of seal produced in the world. so what makes uh so price fluctuate is the, the market uh for a high value items made was made of seal in europe and united states and also the economy in the china and the economy in india. the competition. uh, that's the silk said culture, the production of cool can face with all the kind of a expectation in the they never go to the field. so these are the main aspects that makes so price,

but the weights demand and competition with all the vehicle through license. and what are some of the key challenges faced by the silk industry in terms of cost management and maintaining competitive pricing or the challenges facing but by see what is that uh, in order to add value to the product. so uh, made with synthetic fibers. uh that has been, uh, one uh kind of benchmarking with soak. so fully as to uh, they used to compare in the past, they used to compare the likeness of the party as to the brightness of devonte ester fabric, with the likeness and the brightness of, and this most, most of the silk fabric. this was in the beginning, i say, in the seventy's, in the eighty's, in the last century. and today as

a likeness and shyness is not the main importance. uh, consumers are interested in the sustainability. what the weight of the tenant soup is facing is that in order to, to get advantage to get market share or to take advantage of the silk. these synthetic fibers are spreading the idea that they that cool. yeah, stuff is more sustainable then soak. and that is a, this is absolutely not true, but it is uh that it has been creating some kind of metrics. and that can see there's only a few items and can see there are a few items that in which for us to get a better performance than silk. so we can say that the biggest challenge as silk is

facing now, is that sue is a sustainable as succession. would like to be one day. but nowadays, silk is a very, very small uh, either street uh, silk is only 0 point one percent of the fiber and then a 5 to produce. and so one table of each $1000.00 kilos is silk. so we have no power at least brad, the idea that steal case sustainability seal can only be produced. that is where you have a mo bear leaves produced without any kind of put side. and the super warm, it's only moat, fresh mold there leaves. and if you don't have fractional values, free of this size, you will, it is not possible to produce joke, but few people knows it. and a lot of people is listening. a lot of untruth. message about the

sustainability of synthetic fibers and sustainability of so these are the biggest challenges of today and how the advancements and technology and manufacturing processes impact the cost of sofa production. yeah, it directly see ok. so very the uses a lot of men power. so if you need to, in brazil, we will have one farmer can deal with one actor of silk about to 2 acres, i believe. and one farmer deals with it. and in china, you will have a about, let's say, a number of farmers in china, maybe 7 farmers will deal with one a one actor. and any of the 6 farmers will deal with an actor. so when, what,

whenever you make it easier to cut mulberry and to bring mulberry to the shed and the to the shed where the sawhorse uh i raise it. whatever it will make it easier to make it with technology you, you will have a better you'd, you will have a better position to continue with the production. and that once you have also a genetic improvement in the, in the field of o c, warm producing. so it is a technology and makes it easy for farmers to cultivate the mulberry fields, to custom. oh barry leaves and to bring them over their leaves to follow up to the shed and then to clean the shed. and then also to harvest the cook home from the

the frames, right, because i produce a suit because produce and when the the, the suit where arms. uh its uh they fall $25.00 days they each mobar leads and the f 30. they produced a cool walkable is only one seal event with one uh, 1200 meters long. is the one click on you have one filament on it and then to produce the silk, you have to unreal this uh, this very uh, theme filament without breaking it. so what makes 6 most is that cool is related without breaking these very seen a filament. and the, this is a farmer, so farmers a feeding to so for i'm for 35 days after the said 25 days, they call the support. i'm started producing the code. and in this process, whatever you use the technology to makes things easier. you will have your,

facilitates the life of the flowers and you make the farmers to produce a bigger quantity and to increase production. thank you so much. all there do, but please stick around. joe, albert do will stay with us right here after the break. and when we come back, we'll explore why india is the 2nd largest producer a. so in the world, making it an important source of employment. the nato is a big, silly organization. it claims to be defensive military lines. but at the same time, claims it must constantly expand. add to this the alliance is quite projects, stability. in reality,

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we don't want to watch it because it might just change the way inside in india is the 2nd largest producer a. so in the world, in an industry that employs about $9700000.00 people in the world and semi urban areas. this industry is one of the largest foreign exchange earners for the country . india produce has 4 types of natural stokes mulberry ery plus they're a new guy which is then made into so garments, fabrics, yarns, carpets, charles scarves, cushions covers accessories and more. in 2022, india produced 34903 metric tons of silk. and the share of mulberry production is the largest among other types of cells produced at 74 percent. this is followed by ery, at 21 percent, plus our of 4.2 percent, and new the, which makes us less than point 75 percent of india's total. so production in

2022 india's exports, the silk and so products were valued at $248000000.00, which is an increase of over 25 percent over the previous year. unlike seasonal crops for me, so forms can be done all year round and can be harvested as many as $5.00 to $6.00 times a year. this industry has low capital requirements and plays an important role in providing employment to millions, enroll parts of india and putting the country on a path of economic progress. carol, at the guy is the leading producer of silk and india, producing an average of $8200.00 metric tons of so every year. so also had which cultural significance in india, it has been the evergreen fabric for generations or any function or which one indian tradition and household from weddings to projects, the silica tire, like a sorry,

or land is considered us vicious and cure for traditional celebrations and highly valued these silkworms performed the best and the temperature range of $25.00 to $27.00 degrees celsius and humidity of 75 to 85 percent. generally, a temperature range of a maximum of $33.00 degrees is considered suitable for so form rearing. beyond this range, mortality of the new got increases deforestation, and rapid proliferation. a small p growers in upper a song has led to the shrinkage of traditional new go plantation. so the impact of global warming, coupled with climate change on the growth of the industry, cannot be ignored. now we take a closer look at the difference between india and other countries in asia when it comes to the techniques used for high quality. so production and for this and more, let's bring in again and joe out there to chair of the valet they said the

institute. now can you discuss any unique or traditional techniques used in india for producing high quality so that may contribute to the costs and quality differentials? yeah, of the techniques that they need technical technics that they are used in brazil is this one that the development of the hybrid of the civil war is the development. and the use of a kind of a hybrid of a super farm is the secret of a high quality steel. so what happens is the one, the super on that keeps the best suit, the best to in terms of young production is not as strong as a su 4. that the, the, this is not so good quality of the seal. so whenever you have one integrated condition, well,

farmer will be paid for the additional labor he will have while dealing with a of a more dedicated to war. and the way it will you to make the company, the reading company to produce a higher quality and a to enable the reading company to pay a little bit more for this farmer. so the integration between farmers and the soup really is the secret at to produce the best quality. if farmers goes to the market to buy the hybrid, they want to buy the kind of the race of the silk war i'm, they want the race that is better for them is erase that. there's a very strong one that eats the leaves that maybe it's not as fresh as not so fresh . and maybe he will not suffer with the high temperature at. but the

quality of, uh, the piece uh, the filament, its filament, the quality was not to. so be east and, but farmer, we'll buy on the market, the sky and all that. and we'll sell the cooling the market and the governance. so the market price. but when you have the governance of a kind of integration, when you have. busy partnership, govern government has made by partnership where the company offers and gives out or indicates the, the kind of hybrid to the farmer and the farmer. knowing that the farmer will have more will have to take care about the clean this of the shed will have to take care about the freshness of the demo. bear leaves, palmer will have to, to wake up at 6 am in the morning and to go to cut the leaves for the

day and put it in the warehouse so that they remain fresh all over the day. and. busy it is a little bit more they to work more than the uh then the, the farmer that works with a very strong su, guam that can go there and the at 3 pm and cut to the leaves and give the leaves to the so for him and he will eat it with that with no problem in a very dedicated sit warm with the the that produces a high quality rossville at the will not eat hot mulberry needs. he's very, he's if he eats, maybe it, it'll die. so integration is the key, is the key for improvements of the quality and the, the, the income of the farmers. and is the key to improve the quality and income of the

silk really about the soup filter. and now what are some like the differences in the production method, supply chain, or labor costs between self production and india, and so production in non asian regions. yeah, it is. uh, in the go we can so i can tell you about what is the there, there is no big difference between uh these uh the labor the uh, labor costing uh, in china or in india or even in brazil in terms of the city culture. because farmers, they work for themselves in brazil, they are integrated, then they work in the way i have explained it as the best way to to work and they receive the best quality of, uh, hybrids help support them and they take out of it and they through and they, they will return it to the company and the company will produce the best quality of russell at, but in the,

in china and in india. whenever you have these kind of integration of pharma, we'll choose those phase more. and then there will be no that in the there is no big difference between uh, seen the labor costs for them, that they will, they will get more or less the same price. and there is some difference between the purchasing power of the call in each, in each country. and it is related with the market price more than any other things. but there is no significant, significant difference in this in this, in this case because of farmers, they are not the employees. they are self employed. yeah. they are in the market. thank you so much, jo. alberta, do for all your time today. while the silk industry has provided jobs for hundreds of thousands of people who work along the supply chain,

the losers are the so forms were killed after weaving this so because every cycle, roughly 3000, so forms are killed to make a single pound the silk. they're usually boiled alive while they're still inside in order to preserve the material quality, thread, length, and value. because otherwise, they would chew their way out of their cocoon when they become an adult and break the thread, an ethical alternative to conventional so it has a merge called i sima. so this is made by allowing so forms to complete their metamorphosis into mosque before harvesting. farmers make little cuts at certain positions of like a cooling that allows so forms to hatch while maintaining the precious filaments. at the same time, the coons are collected as a residual product and boiled afterwards. these silks typically lead to 10 extra days in the process to allow the cell forms to grow and hatch plus some additional

steps in labor. this compared to traditional salt farming, which would usually only take 15 minutes for the same process. and while the salt industry also generates a lot of waste in the form of push this so rough, so unreal waste to cook coons and other organic ways from plantations, waste products are found to have remarkable qualities for use in various industries like pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. a 5 bro, in in the silk thread with anti bacterial properties, is used for tumor treatment wound haley and college and re generation. it is now also used in anti aging and anti wrinkle pains, and ointments. so it is encouraging that the suck industry has taken steps to make production less wasteful and sustainable. i'm christy. i thanks for watching. and we'll see you right back here next time on the cost of everything.

the, the after the nonsense these power in italy, states foreign policy became extremely aggressive. benito mussolini needed glorious victories. he decided to achieve his ambitions in africa. despite the fact that formally libya had become an italian colony back in 1912. the vast territories of this country were not actually controlled by rome. the nazis decided to put an end to this. but as soon as the religious order of this genocide stood in their way, the arabs did not want to submit to for an hour and put up fierce resistance. dividers against colonialism were led by the seats of this m a side order. omar l move star,

who was nick named the lion of the desert for his incredible courage. despite the violent, bombardments and voice and gas usage, mass keyboard agents, and the imprisonment of the local population and concentration camps, the invaders could not go with the arrow patriots for a decade. in 1931, omar l move star was captured and sentenced the hanging type of trial. the hero of the libyan people behaved very bravely and rejected artist pursuing a policy of genocide, italy was only able to temporarily suppress libya, 18th of the entire population. more than 100000 people fell victim to terror. however, just a few years later, the entail you enroll, collapsed in 1951, libya became one of the 1st countries in africa to gain independence.

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