[000:00:00;00] the data was a bit silly organization, it claims to be defensive military lines, but at the same time, claims it must constantly expand. add to this, the alliance is quite projects debility in reality,

it projects instability and security, and made rushing its primary head of the it still has been synonymous with luxury decadence elegance. it has a reputation for richness and has caught real significance as a valuable commodity used to dress royalty, and the aristocracy. for centuries, china has held a monopoly on silk which quickly became the most important luxury fabric in all of europe. even today, soak is highly valued for the legacy, judy and exoticism. i'm christiane,

you're watching the cost of everything we're today. we're going to unravel the great silk trade industry. the oldest cell production dates back to china where it has been produced since 4000 b. c, cell production and china was standardized throughout the centuries. where you have cellphones gorging on mulberry leaves to encourage them to begin spinning their cocoons from there. the coons are weighed and sorted and salt and boiling water to unravel them so they can be strong into schools which can then be made into so fabrics. china is still the number one producer of modern cells with as much as 90 percent of the world soak coming from asia. now the modern silk industry generates about $3000000000.00 of revenue per year, or about a $150000.00 metric tons of silk are produced each year. in contrast,

your basic cotton commodity produces 25000000 metric tons annually because of its limited production quantity. so commands a much higher price on the international market. in 2021 rossville costs over $30.00 per kilogram. while your basic marina will cost us $10.00 per kilogram. now there are several insects that produce silk fiber proteins, but the preferred insect is the domestic so form after hatching. so farms will eat constantly and must be fed at least twice a day on a specific type of mulberry we. white mulberry leave it believe to encourage the best silk production. these so forms need to collectively consume about a 140 kilograms of mulberry leaves. just to produce one kilogram of ross, so after one to 2 months, the so forms will start to build their cocoons,

the coon waiving containing days and during this time the cell form produces one continuous strand of cells that wrap the self inside of which when unraveled can be stretched out to be 3 fourths of a mile long. this process will take between 3 to 8 days in which the cell 4 rotates his body in a bigger right movement around 300000 times. it takes about $5000.00 so forms to produce one kilogram of raw silk or about $3000.00 coons to produce only one yard of fabric. after the coons are collected, there boiled in water to kill the cell for the coon is then on welding a process known as reeling which can be done by hand or by machine. these individual strands of fiber optics freely then, and fragile. so they need to be while and together with other fibers to increase the tensile spring. the resulting product is ross,

so which is then made into skins before being made into yard or fabric. the raw silk is graded into 11 categories from 6 a through f. the grading takes into account factors like size, deviation, cleanliness, neatness, tens, the city, a long day sion and any defects. the 6 a is the highest possible grade unless the one percent of chinese raw silk is graded. at this level, france, italy and japan have develop reputations for making the finest so tech styles that commend the highest prices because of all the work and manual labor that goes into making it. so fabrics can cost over a $100.00 a yard before they're even made into anything at heritage mills in europe and asia . the fabric itself can go for more than $300.00 a yard. high quality salt has an instantly recognizable bloss and extremely

lustrous and smooth without feeling overly slick. it naturally circulates air for a cooling effect, but can also help insulate the heat coming off of the body. but there is a country that will surprise you as one of the main leaders. and so it's production and that is in the american continent. with this in mind, let's bring in joelle bear do chair of the valet they said a institute. now it takes us by surprise that brazil is a self producer, even though it is not a per zillion tradition. what makes brazilian so a high quality product or a well, it's a the way those 2 is producing here. we produce choking brazil using the technology . i know what, what is the most up to date? it's acknowledges that has been developed in japan in the last uh, i can say 70 years. and uh, we have in brazil a good climate. and we, we,

our farmers have learned with only with the conditions how to do and how to produce choke. and. busy they have no uh, ocean knowledge. uh, let's say they have not learned with the grandparents with parents as they have learned with the conditions and the kind of uh, the quality of the suit warm that is being developed for them is the highest quality possible and is the, the suit warm that the says treatable to produce a high quality su with good resistance and the, and the strength and the strength and celebration aspects. so we have a, he a good climate and the good people and a company that is, that is now in the market as the company that produces the best silk in the world. and how the international sales price is fluctuate. and what are some of the

drivers behind these fluctuations? yes, yeah. the who uh, the silk is connected. this linkage with the consumption of uh, luxury items outside. uh, china and outside the uh, if you get to the uh, chinese uh, seal production and indians to put the chip. it will take about 96 percent of seal produced in the world. so what makes a surprise fluctuate is the, the market uh for a high value items made was made up. so in your, in united states and also the economy in the china and the economy in india. the competition. uh, that's the silk said culture, the production of cool can face with all the kind of

a the expectation in the, in the vehicle to the field. so these are the main aspects that makes so price, but the weights demand and competition with all the vehicle through items. and what are some of the key challenges faced by the silk industry in terms of cost management and maintaining competitive pricing? the challenges faced by c o is that uh, in order to add value to the product. so made with synthetic fibers that has been uh, one uh kind of benchmarking with soak. so fully as to uh, they used to compare in the past, they used to compare the likeness of the party as to the brightness of the bully as to fabric with the likeness and the brightness of this most,

most of the silk fabric. this was in the beginning, i say, in the seventy's, in the eighty's, in the last century. and today as a likeness and shyness is not the main importance. uh, consumers are interested in the sustainability. what the weight of the german soup is facing is that in order to, to get advantage to get market share or to take advantage of the silk. these synthetic fibers are spreading the idea that they that cool. yeah, stuff is more sustainable then soak and uh that is uh, this is uh, absolutely not true, but it is uh that it has been created some kind of metrics. uh, that can see there's only a few items and can see there are

a few items that in which for us to get a better performance than silk. so we can say that's the biggest challenge of silk is facing. now is that so is sustainable as a fashion. we'd like to be one day. but nowadays, silk is a very, very small, uh, either street, uh, silk is only 0 point one percent of the fiber and then may 5 to produce. and so one kilo of each $1000.00 kilos is silk. so we have no power to spread. the idea that still is sustainability. so you can only be producer if you have a low bear leaves for this without any kind of put side and so on. it's only moat fresh mole barely. and if you don't have fractional values,

free of this size, you will. it is not possible to produce joke, but few people knows it. and a lot of people is at least sending a lot of untruth. message about the sustainability of synthetic fibers and sustainability of so these are the biggest challenges of today and how the advancements and technology and manufacturing processes impact the cost a sofa production. yeah. directly. see ok. so very it uses a lot of manpower. so if you need to, in brazil, we will have is one farmer can deal with one actor of silk about to 2 acres, i believe. and one farmer deals with it. and in china you will have a voltage that's

a number of farmers in china. maybe 7 farmers will deal with one a one actor and you need 6 farmers will deal with an actor. so when whatever, whatever you make it easier to cut mulberry and to bring mulberry to the shed and the, to the shed where the, where i'm are is uh i raise it whatever it will make it easier to make it with technology. you, you will have a better viewed, you will have a better position to continue with the production. and that once you have also a genetic improvement in the, in the field of o c, warm producing. so it is a technology and makes it easy for farmers to cultivate the mulberry fields,

to custom. oh barry leaves and to bring them over leaves too far from the shed and then to clean the shed. and then also to harvest the cook home from the of the frames bifocal is that produces a silk explicit when uh the suit warms uh its uh they fall $25.00 days they each mobar leads and the f 30. they produced a cool walkable is the only one feel event with one uh, 1200 meters long. just one quick home, you have one for them at all. and the end to produce the silk. you have to unreal this uh, this very uh, theme a, filling it without breaking it. so what makes 6 most is that cool is related without breaking these very theme, a filament. and that this is

a farmer. so farmer is a feeding to. so for i'm for 35 days after the said 25 days, they call them the simple i'm started producing the code and in this process, whatever you use the technology to makes things easier. you will have you facilitate the life of the flowers and you make the farmers to produce a bigger quantity and to increase production. thank you so much. all there do, but please stick around. joelle birds do will stay with us right here after the break. and when we come back, we'll explore why india is the 2nd largest producer a. so in the world,

making it an important source of employment. the, [000:00:00;00] the most reason is munoz curtis. imagine if you speak russian, keep your voice down while house in about. so when i give up, if i go for x, prostate, or don't put your human symbolism, displays the decision space, reach the guide. so you guys don't talk to strangers,

the void noisy gatherings and was wondering for sure why she didn't rely on get them in. and what actually is your colleagues and perhaps also your friends think your guilty because your russian let you know the boom. so what can i do? i'm the was mindset from it. so i'd be glad to reduce the team that does due to the styles we did use the t of by need. so be able to consumption to buy, need specific silver. so we can find one of the india is the 2nd largest producer a. so in the world, in an industry that employs about 9700000 people in the world and semi urban areas,

this industry is one of the largest foreign exchange earners for the country. india produce has 4 types of natural stokes mulberry, ery plus. they're a new guy which is then made into so garments, fabrics, yards carpets. charles scars cushions covers accessories and more. in 2022. india produced 34903 metric tons of silk. and the share of mulberry production is the largest among other types of cells produced at 74 percent. this is followed by ery, at 21 percent, plus our of 4.2 percent. and you go, which makes up less than point 75 percent of india's total cell production in 2022 india's exports a. so and so's products were valued at $248000000.00, which is an increase of over 25 percent over the previous year. unlike seasonal crops for me, so forms can be done all year round and can be harvested as many as $5.00 to $6.00

times a year. this industry has low capital requirements and plays an important role in providing employment to millions, enroll parts of india and putting the country on a path of economic progress. periodic i is the leading producer of silk and india, producing an average of $8200.00 metric tons of salt every year. so also had which cultural significance in india, it has been the evergreen fabric for generations or any function or which one indian tradition and household from weddings to projects. soak a tire like a sorry or land is considered auspicious and cure for traditional celebrations and highly valued. these silkworms performed the best and the temperature range of $25.00 to $27.00 degrees celsius and humidity of 75 to 85 percent.

generally, a temperature range of a maximum of $33.00 degrees is considered suitable for so form rearing. beyond this range, mortality of the new got increases deforestation, and rapid proliferation. a small p growers in upper a song has led to the shrinkage of traditional new go plantation. so the impact of global warming, coupled with climate change on the growth of the industry, cannot be ignored. now we take a closer look at the difference between india and other countries in asia when it comes to the techniques used for high quality. so production and for this and more, let's bring in again and joe out there to chair of the valet they set a institute. now can you discuss any unique or traditional techniques used in india for producing high quality so that may contribute to the cost and quality differentials? yeah, of the techniques that they are,

the 2nd it is technics that are used in brazil is this one that the uh the development of the hybrid of the super warm is the development and the use of a kind of a hybrid of a super mom is the secret of a high quality seal. so what happens is the one, the super on that keeps the best suit, the best to in terms of young production. it is not as strong as to war that the produce is not so good quality of the seal. so whenever you have one think of braces, the condition well, farmer will be paid for the additional labor. he will have while dealing with a of a more dedicated to war. and the way it will do to make the company, the reading company, to produce a higher quality and

a to enable the reading company to pay a little bit more for this farmer. so he's the integration between farmers and the soup really is a secret ad to produce the best quality. if farmers goes to the market to buy a hybrid, they want to buy the kind of the race of the silk war and they want the race that is better for them is a race that there's a very strong so warm that eats the leaves that maybe it's not as fresh as not so fresh and maybe he will not suffer with the high temperature at but the quality of uh, the piece uh, the filament is filament. the quality was not to so big is and about pharma will buy on the market. the sky and all that,

and it will sell the cooling the market and the governance of the market price. but when you have the governance of a kind of integration, when you have a partnership govern government has made by partnership where the company offers and gives out or indicates the, the kind of hybrid to the farmer and the farmer knowing that the farmer we'll have more we'll have to take care about the cleaners of the shed. we'll have to take care about the freshness of the demo. bear leaves, palmer. we'll have to wake up at 6 am in the morning and to go to cut the leaves for the day and put it in the warehouse so that they remain fresh all over the day. and uh, and it is a little bit more of a to work more than the uh, than the, the farmer that works with a very strong su, guam that can go there and the at 3 pm and cut the leaves and keep the leaves of

the so for him, and he will eat it with that with no problem. very dedicated so warm with the, the that produces a high quality russell that will not eat hot mo berry needs. he's very he, if he eats, maybe it will die. so integration is the key, is the key for improvements of the quality and the, the income of the farmers, and is the key to improve the quality and income of the silk really about the fuel filter. and now what are some of the, like the differences in the production method, supply chain or labor costs between self production and india. and so production in non asian regions. yeah. it is uh, in the i can,

we can so i can tell you about what is the there, there is no big difference between uh these uh, the labor uh, labor costing uh in china or in india or even in brazil in terms of the city culture because farmers, they work for themselves in brazil, they are integrated and they work in the way. i have explained it as the best way to, to work and they receive the best quality of, uh, hybrids help support them and they take care of it and they feel and that they will return it to the company and the company will produce the best quality of russell at, but in the, in china and in india, whenever you have these kind of integration of pharma, we'll choose those phase more and then there will be no in the, there is no big difference between uh, seen the labor costs for them,

if they will they will get a more or less the same price. and there is some difference between the purchasing power of the call in each in each country. and it is related with the market price more than any other things. but there is no significant, significant difference in this in this, in this case, because of farmers, they are not the employees, they are self employed, the, they are in the market. thank you so much, jo. alberta, do for all your time today. while the silk industry has provided jobs for hundreds of thousands of people who work along the supply chain, the losers or the so forms were killed. after weaving the silica crews every cycle, roughly $3000.00 silkworms are killed to make a single pound the silk. they're usually boiled alive while they're still inside in order to preserve the material quality, thread, length,

and value. because otherwise, they would chew their way out of their cocoon, when they become an adult. and rake the thread. an ethical alternative to conventional cells has emerge called i sima. so this is made by allowing so forms to complete their metamorphosis into moss. before harvesting. farmers make little cuts at certain positions of like a coon that allows so forms to hatch while maintaining the precious filaments. at the same time, the coons are collected as a residual product and boiled afterwards. the silks typically lead to 10 extra days in the process to allow the cell forms to grow and hatch plus some additional steps in labor. this compared to traditional so farming, which would usually only take 15 minutes for the same process. a lot of salt industry also generates a lot of waste in the form of twist. it's so rough,

so on real ways to cook coons in other organic ways from plantations. waste products are found to have remarkable qualities for use in various industries like pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. 5 bro, in in the silk thread with anti bacterial properties is used for tumor treatment wound haley and college and re generation. it is now also used in anti aging and anti wrinkle pains, and ointments. so it is encouraging that the suck industry has taken steps to make production less wasteful and sustainable. i'm christy. i thanks for watching. and we'll see you right back here next time on the cost of everything. the k to it's a peculiar organization. it claims to be defensive military lines, but at the same time, claims it must constantly expand. add to this the alliance is quite projects,

stability. in reality, it projects instability and in security and made rushing its primary head. the i'm a film director, i've written many scripts during my career, but i thought really curious, cutting neural networks collaborate with a human to make a documentary film brand new setup for much a good for me not to be chosen about is the volume of sheriff comergence this your more than so let's do this one. no, but i'll book you with exclusive and you're letting us know if it looks like you still are used to play scramble with the positive, which look a lot. finally, probably for you really feel ports of literature sort of by the way we haven't

introduced ourselves. i have the strangest feeling we've met somewhere before. the the are headline stories, a russian representative. i'll pay you and say's key of leadership. this pushing its fruits into a suicide mission to up to that western patrons, stating new frames, lunch potentate, control, offensive husky, the costs and failures from the stoning. all of ukraine's countries offensive to failing to stabilize. and these year, we chronicled the recent american foreign policy blunders involving high level officials. expos can a new articles much future prize. winning journalist seymour hurts. also