preparedness. i'm howard z i'm a structural engineer. i worked with the dbi for a year and a half. prior i spent 20 years in the private sector with design, retrofits. residential and commercial and new construction. so, we are here today to share with you some simple tips on to help you and your families prepare for the next major earthquake. our latest earthquake was in 1989 it hit the marina district hard. this photo was taken in the marina. if you look closely at the garage door. it's not showing up too well but it's not too square.

this building is probably leaning permanently against in building. if you look at this building it doesn't look too straight up and down this building is leaning, too. over there, something is not there anymore. >> another reminder from the 1989 earthquake, this used to be a 4 story apartment house. my guess is that this is the type of apartment house which has lots of garage door openings and other openings at the street level a soft story. it's likely that the soft story condition lead to contributed to this building collapsing much notice this gentlemen on the balcony. i wonder if he's getting out or trying to do some rescue.

the 1989 earthquake was a magnitude 6.7 earthquake. the 1906 earthquake was magnitude 7.8. between 7.8 and 6.7 that's 10 times bigger. the latest projections indicate that there is a greater than 30 percent no greater than 60 percent probability of a major earthquake that we call it the, big one. hitting the bay area within the next 30 years. this big one is expected to be as big as 7.9. that's 10 times more shaking 10 times more damage than what we experienced in the marina. it's worth doing what we can to prepare. so, to begin, we will first talk about steps you can take to prepare yourself and your

family. and for additional information and details there is a website. 72 hours. org. got details of everything we will talk about today. >> the first thing to do is develop a family emergency plan. locate a place in your home. a room that you can identify as a safe shelter area. it would be a room with no heavy hanging objects that will fall. ideally, a room that does not have a lot of windows. if you have a lot of windows the glass could break. might be good to have the room on the ground floor with ready access to the outside. identify place in your home to store your emergency supplies. because i may not get back into our home or neighborhood, it's a

good idea to arrange a place to meet, some place away from your actual home. after an earthquake. and similarly, it's a good idea to identify a person a distant relative an aunt or uncle someone located far enough away from san francisco that they will would not be affected by the earthquake. they can become the point of contact. they can be the store house of information. everyone can call into that person to check in with them. in case you lose touch with each other. all this and more you find on 72 hours. org. in terms of your emergency supplies, you want to obviously keep a stash of emergency supplies at home, at work, you might want to keep some emergency supplies because we spend a lot of time at work. at work it's a good idea to keep

a pair of walking shoes and socks because you might need to walk home. some people if they spend a lot of time in their cars they might put emergency supplies in their cars. it's important especially at home their emergency supplies with transportable so you can easily relocate. transportable meaning sturdy boxes or bins. put together a grab and go kit. since you will probably be asleep. a grab and go kit will be a duffle bag or back pack you ideally keep under your bed or in the bedroom. when you are asleep and the earthquake hits you grab it and go. you don't have to figure out what you need to take. things to include in the grab and go kit would be shoes. shoes and socks it would be a good idea to put those inside

the kit or you know the plastic bag so that they don't get like broken glass doesn't fall in your shoes because it would be hard to put those on if they were covered in glass. crowbar, may be your bedroom door might be jammed. another place if you put your grab and go kit in a closet i recommend you sleep with the closet slightly opened. flashlight with batteries and leather gloves. your id, cell phone, any crucial important papers you must take with you and lots of cash. not lots but, cash. >> and other items you can see here. atm card, credit cards, debit

cards, medications or spare pair of glasses, scissors a watch. >> water, water humans need water more than they need food. it's really important that we store water that we can use in an emergency. the recommendation is a minimum of one gallon per person per day for 3 days is what the federal guidelines are what fema recommends and 72 hours. org might recommend it, too. my recommendation is 5 days just to be safe. for the water, in my opinion unopened store bought water would be the best. they come in plastic jugs and have dateos them so you know when to replace them. if you store tap water you should be prepare todd purify

this water before you use it. and make sure you keep track of how old it is. store in a cool dark place. a place where animals can't get to. in my basement, there is 3 gallons here. here's an example of store bought water. i see the dates. i keep it in a plastic crate and over here there's a piece of wood. someone told me if you store plastic jugs of water don't store it on top of concrete. i don't remember the reason. but here's a piece of wood i set it on top of. water purification kits. additional items to keep in your supply. and these are listed in the hand outs. water purification kit if you store tap water a 50 aid kit.

wet wipes come in handy. food requiring little heat or water. and a can opener. if you are storing canned food make sure you have a can opener and eating utensils spoon, knife fork gotta have tp. butane, bbq, ignighter or matches. having a bbq is a good idea so you can cook out doors never bbq indoors. a fire place lighter the big lighter type things and you gotta have matches. if you watch the show survivor, fire is the key element of survival. gotta have some matches. large garbage bags because you can do wonderous things with garbage bags. duct tape, utility knife. and more stuff.

battery operated radio or the hand crank radios. flashlights. hand cranked flashlights. that's better. all right. blankets, warm clothes, diapers, et cetera. these are all on 72 hours. org. the 3 main u tillities we have in your home is natural gas, water and electricity. it's a good idea to train your family how to turn off utilities. with gas do it only if necessary or if you are not sure. for natural gas teach your children to identify the smell of gas. the sulfite an add to it to make it smell like rotten eggs. if you smell it turn it off.

if you are not sure, turn it off. if your meter wheels are spinning that means you have a leak, turn it off. if you turn it off don't ever turn it back on yourself. you have to call pg and e to come back and turn it on. you know they will be swamped it will take awhile for them to get to you. do not turn the gas back on by yourself. how do you, everybody should have a meter that looks like this picture here. to turn it off wrench. the wheels are there, there's the dials. this is on when the valve is in a direction of the pipe and this is off. take your wrench and turn it from this to that. that turns it off. it's unlikely you will need to

turn the water off. but if may be your pipe breaks and you got water flooding then you should turn your water off. most homes single family homes have a main valve that looks like this in the basement or the garage. that's it right there. so to turn it off you turn it clock wise until you can't turn it anymore and that turns it off. if you can't find a valve like that your other option is out on the sidewalk turn it off at the sidewalk. here's an exercise for everyone, go home tonight and try to find this in front of your house, your home and take a big screwdriver, stick it in here and pry open the lid and look down and see what it looks like. better to be familiar with what it will look like. look at the type of valve that's down there and imagine how you would turn that valve off after you get this open. >> no.

>> you could do whatever you want but i don't think you would have authority to go turn other people's gas off. >> there is earthquake and gas in the air, what do you do. >> if people ask you to help them, of course. it's an emergency situation of course you help your neighbors or you locate one of the 50 responders. if you did it yourself then you might your neighbors might not be happy with you if you were wrong. because you would cause alot of inconvenience to them. >> now we will move toward how to prepare your home. basically there are 2 choices. you could either hire an architect or an engineer to perform a structural evaluation, which would lead to a seismic retrofit or seismic upgrade. when they were done then you

would have a code conforming seismic upgrade or seismic retrofit. the other option is you skip the, you could do it yourself. when you do it yourself, there's no engineer or architect and it becomes a strengthening. if you do it yourself doing something is better than nothing. if you decide to proceed with an engineer seismic retrofit or upgrade, you need drawings and calculations prepared and signed by a licensed architect or an engineer. civil engineers are licensed to provide structural design service. you don't need a structural engineer a civil engineer should be good enough. an engineer cannot call

themselves a structural engineer the fee will be higher than for a civil engineer. for a typical single family hope in san francisco you expect a design fee from a civil engineer in the thousands of dollars. if you have a larger home or it's complicated like on a steep hill it will be higher. if you hire an architect, you gotta pay the architect and they have fees and their fees are going to be higher. depending on the other work you do that drives up the fees. when you are done you can say your house is sighsmically retrograted and upgraded to code.

>> if you take out a building permit that would be in the record and add value to your home if you added a full seismic upgrade. when it come time to sell you can say you have a code conform i ing seismically retrofitted house. >> if you want to do it yourself strengthening, if you come to the building department at 1616 mission and say you are putting in anchor bolts in the perimeter of the foundation, no drawings are required for that. a building permit is required. an engineer stamp is also not required. nor an architect. it's not a seismic upgrade or retrofit it's a strengthening. a simple permit. you do need a building permit

for that work. the description of work on the building permit should state voluntary strengthening work to add bolts at the lower story. in your typical san francisco home like in the sunset where you have a lot of the open basement garage areas, that's the area that i'm talking about. it's usually it's always at the lowest level of the building. you would go to the residential permit counter on the first floor and as i say it's over the counter permit approval and you just state on the application you are installing anchor bolts at the perimeter of the foundation. and you are also going to state that you are installing plywood sheathing at the -- at the bottom level of the building.

on that permit will be -- if you come in on a monday morning you will leave on the monday morning with your building permit and start work any time. as long as you fill out the application completely. >> as i said, the general guidelines and tips for the voluntary strengtheng are adding bolts one size does not fit all. all buildings are different. i refer to the sunset richmond houses if you have a victorian there could be a crawl space and that space may be harder to do the work. i'm not saying you shouldn't do it but it may be a different approach on how to get access to the area. i want to talk about installing the anchor boltses. i have done quite a few of them in san francisco. if you are handing with tools or

construction equipment this is something you could accomplish. my estimate for installing an anchor bolt is 30-75 a bolt. so the it's better, the easiest place to do the work is in that typical open garage basement where the walls where there is no sheet rock or wall covering on the walls. good to create a good working area around the perimeter approximately 3 feet. that will enable you to move around with materials, with tools, et cetera. you want to mark the locations of the holes with a mud sill. that's the mud sill or the plates. you want to mark the locations around the perimeter on the mud

sill. and you would then note where the joints are on the mud sill these are 14-16 feet long. you don't want to put the holes closer than 5 and a half inches to the end of the sill. or more than 12 inches from the end. either. between 5 and a half and 12 inches. if you are dealing with a finished space in a basement and you discover your foundation hasn't been bolted to the foundation, it's more difficult to do the work obviously you will have to disturb the wall finishes like removing the sheet rock. i would not discourage that. i think it's more important to have your building bolted than to have your finished walls because you know you will patch the sheet rock again. you would have to take off enough sheet rock, obviously, to do the work may be a 3 feet section or something.

as i said, on the mud sill you go ahead and drill the holes in the mud sill with a wood boring bit. you also in some of the older houses and even it's there are sometimes is the bracing on the walls, that's the diagonal bracing, may need to remove some of that, take it out and when you put the bolt in when you finish always put that brace back in that adds sheer value to your home. usually these bolts are 5 eighth inch diameter. they usually come 12 inches long. you want to drill a 3 quarter inch hole to accommodate the anchor bolt. that gives you work room. you need when you got the holes drilled in the wooden mud sill,

you then will start to drill the holes into the concrete or your brick. you need to do that with a rotary hummer drill. you can rent those out they are 40-50 dollars a day. you drill you have to be 7 inches minimum into the concrete. you want to make sure, just take your time, let the drill do the work. you will hit your knuckles a couple of times it's not impossible to do. if you suddenly are drilling and you hit something hard and the drill will not go that means you hit steel in your foundation which is good that means you have steel in your foundation and your foundation has reenforcing in it. you would just change the location of the hole move it oaf a bit. probably the most important thing is when you drill the holes in the concrete it's very important to remove all of the

concrete dust. simply because when you get to the stage of putting in thethe which holds the bolt in place. it won't stay with the dust. all the hardware stores sell those things for that type of work. you want to set bolts ugz the epoxy. the epoxy come in a gun here. you buy the epoxy by the gun it come in tubes. it's easy to put in. you want to fill the hole halfway and set the bolt in thes holing. takes 48 hours for the bolts to set in the concrete. you will not put on nuts or washers until after that time the following saturday or couple of days later you want to

install a 2 by 2 plate washer. that's what the building code now requires. they perform better in the earthquake that's proven. the earthquake in l.a. proved that. we saw photographs af that any of the buildings that had the 2 inch earthquake washers, the building did not move as much. you want to tighten down the nut and that's it. there are other anchor bolts, a wedge ancient or which does not need epoxy but you have to be spot on on the drilling there is no room for error. you get one shot at putting those things in. personnelly i prefer the epoxy system. >> was talking about a 5 eighth inch anchor bolt, that's correct if you wanted you can use a 3

quarter inch diameter. 5 eighth or 3 quarter inch diameter. it should be an a 307 the bolt and a 36 is the rod. it's 7 inches embedment into the foundation. space your anchor bolts not more than 4 feet apart. 2 anchor bolts in each sill piece. this reads one bolt located not more than 12 inches and not less than 5 and a half inches from each end of the sill piece. i started engineering before they had invented this system. this is absolutely, i think, the best way to go. if you are going to install epoxy anchor bolts you buy the cartridges they come together with the 2 part. it has to be mixed.

you have to buy the gun, may be you could rent the gun. the beauty is you stick the twin cartridge in. attach the the nozzle and the beauty is you squeeze this, it forces the 2 parts separately into the nozzle and in the nozzle there are veins and it mixes when it come out the end it's properly mixed. in the old days i go to the job site and the contractors are trying to mix it they have part a and b and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't work. with this you don't want to cut corners sometimes people, as you see a blob at the end meaning they were halfway through. if this hardens you can't use this nozzle. people cut off the end. i recommend you don't do that. buy another nozzle if you cut

off too much it won't mix properly. last year, this is the hill t demonstrator, equal time. sometimes in an older house the mud sill, this is the mud sill right here. this is the stud. all right and here's the concrete. you see that the mud sill is actually wider than the stud. good god, what do you do? you need to nail down new sill pieces that are flush with the stud. if your stud is a 2 by 4, then you use a 4 inch sill piece you stick it between the studs right in there and nail it down. to be conservative i recommend 6, 10 penny common nails per sill piece. to nail your new sill piece down to the mud sill. all right. you need to do that every where.

and if there is an -- well -- this is an old house here's an existing bolt you have to drill a hole in the new sill piece to fit over the 2 sills together. after you have nailed the new sill piece at each space to the mud sill, then it's time to install the anchor bolt. you drill through both sills and down into the concrete. you need to use a slightly longer anchor bolt for that type of application. >> other thing was probably i got ahead of myself. when i talked about marking the holes for the anchor bolts. if you have the condition in your home with the mud sill is wider than the studs you install the blocking prior to the drilling because that has to be done first. not all homes are done like that. it's referenced at page 12 it's clearly shown as to what exactly

you need to do we just don't have it on the slide. it's in the page 12 shows that clear. >> changing gears now let's talk about plywood and cripple walls. cripple walls are the little bits of load bearing walls that go between your first floor and the top of the foundation. cripple walls create the perimeter around your crawl space. most san francisco house us don't have crawl spaces so most san francisco houses do not have cripple walls. what we do have is we typically have one or 2 story over garage. the garage at street level, those walls become like the cripple walls. so, what we like to see, we like to see people strengthen those garage walls the same way you strengthen the cripple walls.