into it. he gets very upset, then he can already imagine how he should like it to be. it is very beautiful because you can see how intent it can be and how the movie becomes a world. it is very specific at some times. for example, the apron of the made from valencia from the 1960's. ok, so i have to go to the market and find one. i not know exactly the apron of the maid of valencia in the 1960's. housewife, sorry. not a mate. it is not abstract, let's say.

but specific in the color, which is absolutely inspiring and fabulous to go into the story. the movie was the cook, the thief, that one -- with helen merrin, who is absolutely fabulous -- helen mirren, fabulous actress. he showed me some painting of rembrandt and said, "uc that? could you do the in modern, in today? and i said i will try. yes, but it is part of the job. so i tried. i worked with a dutch artistic director, and i get to work with him. he was very specific and

fabulous man. also, they were very specific about the color. in reality, they asked me because the color is a little like in the spirit. it is something in common. i was flattered to do that, but it is beautiful to see how much they are -- our work, our demand is to make a beautiful movie. i should not be able to do anything. i never thought about it, but when people ask me, you have to be so clever. >> tom ford made a movie, so why not you? >> because my brain is not that sure.

you have to think about so many things. truly, it is a big work. you have to be strong. you have to take care also of the physiology of the actor which is, like, oh, my god. you can be depressed. also, you see the depression of everybody. i do not want it. i have enough of my own. >> i hope you will be sharp enough to answer the questions the audience has for you. rather like the academy awards. [applause] these questions have come through on various means. can we have the first question? >> the first question -- i am going to compile a group -- a lot of people are asking what is currently inspiring new? from different cultures, the internet, textile design -- what

exciting things are you seeing in contemporary textile design? and what are you reading? >> definitely, that is very sad, but i have not enough time to read. that is the very sad part. so i'm not enough reading, but i'm getting older and getting closer. now that nobody is doing any more reading, i will read. no, i think honestly, it is a question of time, but reading, to bring inspiration, but that is the problem. i get into a book and say that i can make a collection of that after, like, three lines. one time i did an existentialist collection years ago, and i was thinking, so i read a book to no

more, to get into it, and sometimes, the explanation can teach you. i read about it and i learned and understood. so i did the collection with my interpretation. i tried to understand the base, the concept, so it is good. you have to read, definitely. >> creativity is so difficult to define by creative people because you just do it instinctively. you were telling me that last night, something inspired you, and you went back andrew your next collection until 4:00 a.m. what inspired you? do you know what set it off?

>> i think it is image sometimes. one that you do not expect can be also a surprise. it was not the case here today. yesterday during the night, it was more like an image that i have seen or received little and i did not know how to treat it. something making me think about it yesterday. after it came and i wake up, instinctively it came like yes, i could do it like that, so i wrote that to remember, and after i was into it, it was very exciting. yes, i find it because always, you are looking for something, you did not know what. until it becomes more concrete, it gives you -- i need to have that direction.

it is a real pleasure. sometimes also like some things in fashion that you get a reaction, can be somebody walking, moving in a way where there is no pocket, but it should have been a pocket. you see the desire or what should be good. food is visual for me. >> can you think of one single example of something that you saw -- i do not know, a green leaf or something on the internet or something in a movie -- something that directly inspired you that you were almost drawing a minute later from it. >> i think it was years ago when

i did my constructive collection. my graphic assistant had a book with her. i loved everything, but it is like a physical reaction. like if i want to eat it. but he made me think about food. it was truly like a beautiful color. it was constructivist, you know. it was so beautiful. they were so perfect that i wanted to have it all. so i make a photo of all the book, and i wanted to have all around me to get into it and to see through that, so it was -- that is one thing.

another thing -- >> one is enough. >> you know what, there is too much selection on the internet. i like the motion, which i mean like surprise. i go somewhere and find something i did not expect, it is there that i have the real shock. i have my reaction. sometimes it does not happen. sometimes it happens late. what i do in that case, i will not tell you. [laughter] >> that might lead to the next question -- what scares you? and then maybe not to be more in love with my were. fashion. >> maybe you are scared that there might be one day -- i'm

sure it will never happen -- when you do not have the energy anymore? that scared of a piece of blank paper and a collection coming up in six weeks -- that does not scare you? >> yes, but i tried to protect myself. for example, i go to a flea market, and nt place. when i see something that i find interesting, even if i have no interest in anything at the moment, i say that one day i will do something from that. i know that there was work on it. i think i have to burn it, because at the end, i take too much time to look at it. but, yes, i mean, to be honest, i think will realize what time that i have no more of the passion, which will mean i will stop. i think it is better.

honestly, before i was doing that profession, because i was not at peace with the fact that i was rejected, so i was inventing a lot of things. at the moment, i started to work -- i finish. because i do the things that i'd love to do, why should i live now. there's no reason to lie? because i am accepted through my work? why should i lie? because i do not want to live again in my old days. but i will always interested in fashion. >> the next question is for both of you -- how is it in the fashion world for larger size

women? >> i will answer this first. i was so happy when beth ditto appeared in one of jean paul's collections. she is a terrific woman and quite rotund in size. i have not quite caught up with her yet, but i certainly am no little stick. i personally thinks one of the things he should be admired for is not to bring the tyranny of fashion to women. he has, as he has explained, done a lot for diversity in terms of skintight but also diversity of styles and shapes, and i think that was the reason for a round of applause. [applause] >> there is one diversity also which is important, age.

i should explain because you know in fashion, a terrible because there is always racism about age. one of the races and is in fashion which i am absolutely against. how could i be against age when i have a grandmother that let me do anything and what it, gave me optimism and positivity? i think people that are old and have experience, you can learn a lot from them, and there are maybe sometimes more sweet than the grandparents. i think age also is something important. i remember, i wanted to do what a collection one time with only old people, and they told me not to do that because we do not like to see ourselves projected as old.

and i did not do it. sometimes i did not listen, but at the moment, i knew i had to do some testing, and i had to show the beauty through the edge, so i will do it one time. maybe it will be my last collection. i will be part of the show, and i will walk. >> your final question comes from a twitter question. what advice do you have for young artists and designers to be successful in the world with so much competition and talent? >> i do not like to give advice. i know only my passion. what i can say is if you truly love fashion, you want to do a profession with fashion, you see -- they will find solutions.

the things in fashion is to be right of with the moment with the society, with the desire, with what people need, and to understand also economically. of course, now, we have a moment where economically, there are a lot of things. it is reality. so knowing all that, you have to make the decision and find a solution about it and propose the right things. the ones who say that what to do the right thing for now, they will get it. only courage and love what you do. it is marvelous work.

i am lucky because i do the work i love, and doing it, i love it even more. it permits need to be accepted and loved. if you receive love, you can give love. [applause] >> we cannot really have a more beautiful ending than that, but i am going to use my chance just to ask one last question. do you believe that you have marked fashion history? >> it is difficult to say. is it my purpose? i do not know. i think that's everybody is marking fashion history in a way.

as much as journalists because they show the people. what is fashion history? some old clothes that you can find may be in the free-market? books, magazines, newspapers? i think that i am part of that, but to think that me, i'm mark -- i do not think so. it is not exactly my purpose. it really seems very selfish to do what you love. >> i'm glad i managed more or less to silence you with my question. [laughter] i would like to say that i believe you have marked fashion history in the best way by creating clothes, which have been a mirror to society as it changed and as it happened, and you will be known for that as much as for the beauty of the close. thank you so much for giving us the chance to talk to you.

[applause]

>> there has been an acknowledgement of the special places around san francisco bay. well, there is something sort of innate in human beings, i think, that tend to recognize a good spot when you see it, a spot that takes your breath away. this is one of them. >> an icon of the new deal. >> we stood here a week ago and we heard all of these dignitaries talk about the symbol that coit tower is for san francisco. it's interesting for those of us in the pioneer park project is trying to make the point that not only the tower, not only this man-built edifice here is a symbol of the city but also the green space on which it sits and the hill to which is rests. to understand them, you have to understand the topography of san francisco. early days of the city, the city grows up in what is the

financial district on the edge of chinatown. everything they rely on for existence is the golden gate. it's of massive importance to the people what comes in and out of san francisco bay. they can't see it where they are. they get the idea to build a giant wooden structure. the years that it was up here, it gave the name telegraph hill. it survived although the structure is long gone. come to the 1870's and the city has growed up remarkably. it's fueled with money from the nevada silver mines and the gold rush. it's trying to be the paris of the west. now the beach is the suburbs, the we will their people lived on the bottom and the poorest people lived on the top because it was very hard getting to the top of telegraph hill. it was mostly lean-to sharks and bits of pieces of houses up here in the beginning. and a group of 20 businessmen

decided that it would be better if the top of the hill remained for the public. so they put their money down and they bought four lots at the top of the hill and they gave them to the city. lily hitchcock coit died without leaving a specific use for her bequest. she left a third of her estate for the beautify indication of the city. arthur brown, noted architect in the city, wanted for a while to build a tower. he had become very interested in persian towers. it was the 1930's. it was all about machinery and sort of this amazing architecture, very powerful architecture. he convinced the rec park commission that building a tower in her memory would be the thing to do with her money. >> it was going to be a wonderful observation place because it was one of the highest hills in the city anywhere and that that was the whole reason why it was built

that high and had the elevator access immediately from the beginning as part of its features. >> my fear's studio was just down the street steps. we were in a very small apartment and that was our backyard. when they were preparing the site for the coit tower, there was always a lot of harping and griping about how awful progress was and why they would choose this beautiful pristine area to do them in was a big question. as soon as the coit tower was getting finished and someone put in the idea that it should be used for art, then, all of a sudden, he was excited about the coit tower. it became almost like a daily destination for him to enjoy

the atmosphere no matter what the politics, that wasn't the point. as long as they fit in and did their work and did their own creative expression, that was all that was required. they turned in their drawings. the drawings were accepted. if they snuck something in, well, there weren't going to be any stoolies around. they made such careful little diagrams of every possible little thing about it as though that was just so important and that they were just the big frog. and, actually, no one ever felt that way about them and they weren't considered something like that. in later life when people would approach me and say, well, what did you know about it? we were with him almost every day and his children, we grew

up together and we didn't think of him as a commie and also the same with the other. he was just a family man doing normal things. no one thought anything of what he was doing. some of them were much more highly trained. it shows, in my estimation, in the murals. this was one of the masterpieces. families at home was a lot more close to the life that i can remember that we lived. murals on the upper floors like the children playing on the swings and i think the little deer in the forest where you could come and see them in the woods and the sports that were always available, i think it did express the best part of our lives.

things that weren't costing money to do, you would go to a picnic on the beach or you would do something in the woods. my favorite of all is in the staircase. it's almost a miracle masterpiece how he could manage to not only fit everyone, of course, a lot of them i recognized from my childhood -- it's how he juxtaposed and managed to kind of climb up that stairway on either side very much like you are walking down a street. it was incredible to do that and to me, that is what depicted the life of the times in san francisco. i even like the ones that show the industrial areas, the once with the workers showing them in the cannery and i can remember going in there and seeing these women with the caps, with the nets shuffling

these cans through. my parents had a ranch in santa rosa and we went there all summer. i could see these people leaning over and checking. it looked exactly like the beautiful things about the ranch. i think he was pretty much in the never look back philosophy about the coit. i don't think he ever went to visit again after we moved from telegraph hill, which was only five or six years later. i don't think he ever had to see it when the initials are scratched into everything and people had literally destroyed the lower half of everything. >> well, in my view, the tower had been pretty much neglected from the 1930's up until the 1980's. it wasn't until then that really enough people began to be alarmed about the condition

of the murals, the tower was leaking. some of the murals suffered wear damage. we really began to organize getting funding through the arts commission and various other sources to restore the murals. they don't have that connection or thread or maintain that connection to your history and your past, what do you have? that's one of the major elements of what makes quality of life in san francisco so incredible. when people ask me, and they ask me all the time, how do you get to coit tower, i say you walk. that's the best way to experience the gradual elevation coming up above the hustle and bustle of the city and finding this sort of oasis, if you will, at the top of the hill. when i walk through this park, i look at these brick walls and

this lawn, i look at the railings around the murals. i look at the restoration and i think, yeah, i had something to do with that. learning the lessons, thank you, landmarks meet landmarks. the current situation at pioneer park and coit tower is really based in public and private partnership. it was the citizens who came together to buy the land to keep it from being developed. it was lily hitchcock coit to give money to the city to beautify the city she loved of the park project worked to develop this south side and still that's the basis of our future project to address the north side.