more widely known as a.a.rant critic for the "london sunday times," a regular columnist for a spectra of magazines, author, traveller, and one of the finest essayists of our time. letterewe, as it stands today, was built as a shooting lodge. deer stalking like they do here is something from another era, but it persists in places like this which both protect and cull deer populations. if you are like us, of course, two murderous aristocrats looking to put some venison on the table, you need help, professional help. and estates like letterewe come with a stalker. stephen miller has been working here for eight seasons now, both protecting the animals who live on it and helping people like us in the arduous and delicate task of sneaking up on them. we would as gentlemen of leisure require a cook and adrian has recommended well-suited fiona cullinane, a woman who excels at this scottish traditional game cookery. for dinner, it's grouse. shot, then hung until the already funky game bird gets pleasingly ripe. the bir