the late aa gill, i don't know if you knew him, but he was one of britain's sort of best known restauranted against the michelin spirit. the sort of smart, formal dining that it seemed to encourage. he said this, "the guide now seems to be wholly out of touch with the way people now actually eat. it's still rewarding fat, conservative, fussy rooms", maybe he meant rooms like this, "that use expensive ingredients with ingratiating pomp to serve glossy plutocrats." is that marcus? no. absolutely not and i don't think fine dining is that. i think there are lots of food writers and critics maybe that don't see the fun or the luxury or the enjoyment in fine dining, because it is a homage to the chef and i think the world has changed. i think a chef cooking in a high street restaurant, that's got 20 seats in and he's slaving away in the back of a kitchen, an open kitchen. that is today as enjoyable as eating in a fine dining restaurant. it's all about what somebody wants for an occasion and if i'm going to set up a restaurant in this hotel, a 5—star hotel, it is known all over the world, there'