destroyed by the war, the adlon re-opened with a flourish in 1997, and it is again one of the premier hotels in europe. the marble fountain in the lobby is all that remains of the original hotel. i toured the luxurious presidential suite, where president bill clinton stayed when commemorating the 50th anniversary of the berlin airlift that brought supplies to a stranded west berlin in 1948. of all the treasures that berlin holds, for me, the most captivating is the ancient collection at the egyptian museum. the highlight of the museum comes largely from the reign of amenophis iv, who changed his name to akhenaten when he became pharaoh in 1375 b.c. he ordered his people to abandon all gods but one: aten, the god of the sun. the reign of this unusual and controversial pharaoh is marked by a more realistic and representational style of art that vanished at the end of his reign. the remarkably well-preserved bust of akhenaten's famous wife, queen nefertiti, is the jewel of the collection. much remains a mystery about this brief departure from traditional egyptian religion. whether akhena