was the real treat for the privileged elite from the 1700s onwards, and in fact, it‘s this cafe, al bicerinicerin glass, which is why it‘s named that, it‘s three layers. on the top is milk, in the middle is chocolate and on the bottom is coffee. now, this is a secret recipe, they tell me. what i do know is that they spend hours back in the kitchen making the chocolate. and over the centuries, we‘re talking artists, intellectuals, all your hoi polloi, have come here and drunk this stuff, and today it is a tourism magnet. salute. exquisite. next this week, we‘re off to new york city in the first part of our series meeting some of the characters we think really define the united states. and we‘re starting in harlem with a pensioner who, before social distancing became a thing, spent her sundays cramming the crowds into her front room for a feast of jazz. i came to new york with the dream of being an actress. i‘d always wanted to have my own theatre. to have my own theatre, write the plays, direct the plays. this apartment worked out to be ideal. band plays jazz. i live in harlem, new york. i h