the smoke from countless burning fields covers amritsar in a thick haze.lved from indian wrestling techniques that date back to the fifth century b.c. >> training is rigid. this is not just a sport, but a way of life. wrestlers live and train together and have strict rules of diet and personal conduct. no smoking, no drinking, no contact with women. i took high school wrestling so that i could get out of gym class. i was a dirty, dirty fighter. it's an all too natural segue between the aggressive posturing of opposing bodies of pehlwani, and this. the entire border between india and pakistan has only one crossing. here at wagah. every sunset the border is officially closed with this bit of national theater. wearing nearly duplicate uniforms, the indian military and pakistani rangers partake in a game of theatrical contempt. clearly it's a popular show. >> so where are we? we are right next to pakistan. india and pakistan were once one country, ripped apart in one of the hastiest, ill-considered partitions imaginable. beyond there, no more fence? >> no more