andechs, a graceful 14th-century monastery, sits atop the hill. it was built to celebrate the rediscovery of relics that had been brought here from jerusalem by a local count in the year 952. buried in the church is composer carl orff of carmina buranfame. modern pilgrims are drawn to andechs by the potent beer brewed by the monks who live here. this isn't exactly a rowdy beer garden. out of respect for the holy site, no singing is allowed. but the special bock beer is so powerful that it's only served during the week for fear of causing car accidents on the weekends. the food here is nothing if not hearty. now, this is what i call a pig's knuckle. lots of pork, potatoes and the world's best sauerkraut. well into rural bavaria, we catch our first breath of mountain air. the snow-rimmed purple alps provide a dramatic backdrop for southern germany's forested beauty and legendary castles. the bavarian flair for the fanciful is best personified by king ludwig ii and his fantastic creation, neuschwanstein. maxa: truly the image of a fairy-tale castle,