vibrant, polluted, and poor — antananarivo, madagascar‘s capital city.y's elite monitor the sapphire rush with great interest. the sapphire trade is a sensitive issue here. the government really doesn't like to talk about it, and somejournalists have been arrested for trying to expose the nepotism and corruption at its heart. the authorities claim they are trying to regulate the industry. but still, the illegal mining goes on. in recent months, ministers have talked of reform, to tighten the law and control small—scale mining. but ngos working in conservation say what really stops effective policing is a lack of money. officials on the ground can't even buy fuel for their vehicles. these are in national parks, often, where it's happening. the authorities seem powerless. yes. u nfortu nately, most of the sapphires, gems, even gold rushes that we've had have been in protected areas, sometimes national parks. and it's all illegal, of course, but then, there is very little capacity to enforce legislation generally in madagascar — especially in very, also rem