we're deep inside the arctic circle on baffin island. it's bigger than california, but with only 11,000 inhabitants, it's not the kind of place you can stop to ask for directions. but this is the price of admission for a shot at seeing one of the most elusive creatures on the planet, the narwal, the so called unicorn of the ocean, with that single tusk that can be up to ten feet long. it's the stuff of fantasy, and i for one need to see it to believe it. and sooner rather than later. the narwal is said to be the most vulnerable species in the arctic to climate change, and here the stark reminders of global warming are all around us, like these big cracks in the ice, cracks that shouldn't be this wide this early in the summer. my mom would not be happy about this. the arctic sea ice is literally disappearing beneath our feet. on track to be faster this year than any other on record. the effects of the rising temperatures up here are dramatic. just a few hundred miles away from us, these tourists had a narrow escape when an ice wave caused