bagan, here we come. a thousand years ago bagan was the capital for a long line of kings. elsewhere in this part of the world. in many of the buddhist temples here more spirit-based beliefs coexist with buddhism. and in myanmar, worship of the nats is widespread. nats as i understand it are like gods, demigods. obvious with human failings. dance performances pay homage to the individual nats, performers claiming to actually channel them, bringing about one hopes a beneficial spiritual possession. but i'm not just here for a but i'm not just here for a nat. i have a list -- things to eat in myanmar. and this is one of them. chicken curry. and from roadside joints like this, nestled among the temple ruins, you're more than likely to catch a very enticing whiff. just delicious. spicy, but not to the point that you want to scream out for mercy, but some heat. slow simmered curry, served with a side of sour soup made from roselle leaves. with it, you get fried, grnd chilies, pickled bean sprouts -- yot the idea. they always have, like, these relishes, these dippy type things, t