the colorful colleoni chapel is named for the mercenary general bartolomeo colleoni, who served the venetians valiantly and put his wealth toward improving bergamo. keep an eye out for the lion, the symbol of venice and a tribute to bergamo's benevolent rulers. another bergamo treasure is the cuisine. just a stroll down the dark, old main street uncovers the sweets and salamis particular to the area. my friend and food expert, daisuke utagawa, found this restaurant, the trattoria da ornella, which specializes in polenta dishes. how did you learn about polenta? how'd i learn about it? by eating it. whenever i visit north-- especially when i go skiing in north, everybody's eating polenta. mmm. i mean, to the point that you get sick of it by the end of the week, but, you know, when you come back, it's great. it's just cornmeal, basically. people up north, they eat more polenta than pasta. takes long time to make. it's not difficult, but you have to attend to the pot so it won't stick to it, and it's low heat, and, you know, you stir it forever, pretty much. you gotta smell this, this is where it