. >> we meet at beauchamp. comptoir gabelle. bouchon is a uniquely lyonnais institution, a casual, laid back kind of a pub slash bistro with a limited, usually old school menu and always, always an unpretentious vibe. people come here to unwind, to relax and to eat with abandon. so do you say outright? recently in one of your published works that lyon is better than paris? >> lyon is a dark, tragic, beautiful, well eating city, and everybody here knows that they have a really good life and they don't give a flying fig if anybody else knows about it, if they don't actually want visitors. >> if you were to pick one iconic dish to represent the bouchon lyonnais, it would have to be the brochette and not particularly fabulous river fish pike folded into a light dough like pate a choux until fluffy and airy, but still rich, adrift in a rich, creamy, almost bisque like nantua sauce made with crayfish creme fraiche, white wine and a splash of brandy. pretty amazing for really. one of the world's less wonderful fish. >> it's kind of a n