everyone squeezes on board and the bemani soon resembles a floating slum. there are 800 people on board, people off to visit their relatives, attend a marriage or a funeral. others dream of making their fortune and are heading for the diamond mines on the other side of the country. whatever the reason, they are in for over a thousand miles of misery as this old boat snakes its way through the heart of africa. from kinshasa, all the way to kisangani, the country's third largest city. before he sets sail, the captain says a quick prayer. anything goes in the port of kinshasa, there are no rules and the boats weave in and out in total anarchy. about ten other boats are hustling around close to the ngbemani. one month behind schedule the ngbemani finally sets off along the river, to the passengers' great relief. as it leaves the port, two barges come alongside the ship to form a water convoy. there are now 1700 people onboard and the ngbemani has essentially become a floating town. there's no water or electricity on this beast, and every inch of the ship is tak