the park's centerpiece is the borghese gallery. once a cardinal's lavish mansion, today it welcomes the public. as is the case with many of europe's top sights, admission requires a reservation. getting one is easy. just a quick phone call or visit the website, and you get an entry time. good guidebooks have all the details. the wealthy borghese family filled their 17th-century villa with art. this was the age when the rich and powerful not only collected beautiful art, but actually employed leading artists to spiff up their homes. cardinal borghese was the pope's nephew and one of the wealthiest people in rome. with unlimited money, his palace dazzled with both fine art of the past, such as raphael's exquisideposition, and with the best art of the day. each room has a masterpiece at its center, like this intriguing look at napoleon's sister, pauline, by canova. the polished marble is lifelike, even sensuous. bernini's david is textbook baroque. bursting with life, david's body, wound like a spring, and lips pursed as he prepares t