the candelaria is a recently renovated old city where i meet up with hector abad, one of the distinguishedremely talented writers in latin america. his recent work is about his father, called "oblivion," who was killed for his outspoken attempts to change things for the better. so, first of all, where are we? >> puerta falsa. this is a place where many bogotans come to eat something in the middle of the morning. or in the middle of the afternoon. >> the tamales are made with chicken and pork belly combined with vegetables, rice and masa, wrapped in a banana leaf, and slow cooked for hours. this place has been serving chocolate completo to the politicians of the nearby plaza bolivar for a couple hundred years. >> here are the tamales. >> beautiful. it is a thing of beauty, isn't it? >> let's see if it tastes like my mother's. >> oh, well, that's a high standard. >> i suppose it is. >> i was just in milaflores yesterday. what economy there was, was entirely drug-based economy. now that the drugs are gone, there is no economy. it's a ghost town, a military and people sitting there staring at