the candelaria is the recently renovated old city where i meet up with hector abad, one of the distinguishedted writers in latin america. hector's recent work, a memoir called "oblivion" is about his father, who was killed for his outpoken attempts to change things for the better. so, first of all, where are we? >> puerta falsa. this is a place where many bogotans come to eat something in the middle of the morning or in the middle of the afternoon. >> the tamales are made with chicken and pork belly combined with vegetables, rice and masa, wrapped in a banana leaf, and slow cooked for hours. this place has been serving chocolate completo to the politicians of the nearby plaza bolivar for a couple of hundred years. >> here are the tamales. >> it's beautiful. it is a thing of beauty, isn't it? >> let's see if it tastes like my mother's. >> oh, well, that's a high standard. >> i suppose it is now. >> i was just in miraflores yesterday. >> yes? >> what economy there was was an entirely drug-based economy. now that the drugs are gone, there is no economy. it's a ghost town, a military and people