and it's an old carmelite monastary turned hacienda turned restaurant, and it's nestled right into the old money san angel neighborhood of mexico city. and to tell you the truth, coming here is like taking a pleasure trip to some long-lost, more genteel time. and the food? well, the food is totally classic. i don't think it's changed all that much since my wife and i used to save up our pesos and come here for a splurgy lunch 20 years ago when we were starving researchers living in mexico city. and everything from the way they serve the margaritas to the decor to the food, it all just adds up to romance-- pure passion. so that's why i ordered these-- chiles rellenos, possibly the most passion-infused dish in the mexican canon. i mean, it starts with chilis, which are already the culinary icon for passion. and then there's the filling and the sauce, and... so it's all about layers of texture and flavor, all revealing themselves. now, in mexico people can get a little obsessed with chiles rellenos. they all have their quintessential favorites. some like them with fresh chilis, others wit