my favorite costa del sol stop is the resort town of nerja. while capitalizing on the holiday culture, nerja has retained some of its charm. the church fronts the square, which fronts the beach, and everybody's out strolling, eventually winding up on the proud "balcony of europe" terrace. this bluff, jutting jauntily into the sea, overlooks miles of coastline. a castle occupied this spot for centuries. nerja's castle was part of a 16th-century lookout system. after reconquista forces drove out the muslim -- oh! that's right. you don't come to the costa del sol for history, you come for fun in the sun and relaxation. and relax is what countless expat residents do. nerja's expats are mostly british. like many along this coast, they actually try not to integrate. they enjoy their english tv and radio, and many barely learn a word of spanish. nerja has several well-equipped beaches. the one just below town retains its fishing-village charm. fishermen do their thing... while the tourists do theirs. the humble cottage evokes a bygone day. spaniards