its capital, budapest, is a regal city, divided by the danube, buda on one side and pest on the otheres on its classic grandeur and nods to the past. budapest has long been a city of sensual pleasures and its thermal baths, "taking the waters," as it's called, has adjusted for the times. the place has a language and cuisine like no other. and for centuries, hungary has been a sort of territorial football, passed around among turks and germans, hapsburgs and communists. after world war ii, hungary was part of the soviet bloc. in 1989 hungary set off a chain of events that brought down the berlin wall. >> in may, hungary began cutting down the barbed wire, becoming the first east bloc country with an open border. >> wertheim: hungary might have been the first country to puncture the iron curtain, but 30 years later, it is at the vanguard of the european right. so much so that hungarians we asked, struggled to characterize the country's current form of government. do you not feel you're living in a democracy right now? >> anna donath: well, it's a tricky question, because by law and regu