. >> but factory owner david hasanat says it's western buyers who really hold the cards and they continueo squeeze local producers. after previous disasters, like a string of fatal factory fires, he says there was talk but no action. >> couple of months, lot of media, international media. believe me, few months later, the customer, they act the same way -- the price, price, price. >> what is your share of this nine-pound price tag? >> roughly, something like two pounds. >> he says there's unrelenting pressure from buyers to cut costs. so many producers cut corners. perhaps a third of dhaka's factories are substandard, he says, and western clients could change this if they insisted on better conditions. >> if there is demand, everybody would set up the right kind of factory because business is not going to reduce. the prices we're offering, we're getting from bangladesh, you cannot get from other parts of the world, you have to come to bangladesh. >> major brand buyers say they have stepped up their own plant inspections, though none would allow us to go along on a visit. >> you should buy

. >> reporter: david hasanat runs a rare company that would allow our cameras in. he's leery of unions, at least in his plants, saying he offers higher than average wages, on site day care, pensions and good fire control systems. in any event, he says, western buyers really hold the cards and they continue to squeeze producers. after previous disasters, like a string of fatal factory fires, he says there was talk but no action. >> reporter: how much of this nine pound price tag is your share? >> about two, maximum... >> reporter: he says there's unrelenting pressure from buyers to cut costs. so producers cut corners. perhaps a third of dhakas factories are substandard, he says, and western clients could change this if they insisted on better conditions. >> reporter: major brand buyers say they have stepped up their own plant inspections, though none would allow us to go along on a visit. >> you people also have responsibility. it's a global business. it's a global supply chain... >> reporter: former garment worker and union organizer nazma akter says workers have a

. >> reporter: david hasanat runs a rare company that would allow our cameras in. he's leery of unions, at least in his plants, saying he offers higher than average wages, onsite day care, pensions and good fire control systems. in any event, he says, western buyers really hold the cards, and they continue to squeeze local producers. after previous disasters, like a string of fatal factory fires, he says there was talk but no action. >> couple of months, lot of media, international media, believe me, few months later, the customer, they act the same way-- the price, price, price. >> reporter: how much of this nine pound price tag is your share? >> about two, maximum... >> reporter: he says there's unrelenting pressure from buyers to cut costs. so, producers cut corners. perhaps a third of dhakas factories are substandard, he says, and western clients could change this if they insisted on better conditions. >> if there is demand, everybody would set up the right kind of factory because business is not going to reduce. to tell you frankly, the prices were offering we