the roads on dingle are narrower. so far fewer buses brave its twists and turns.etty port that's home to a large number of fishermen, and pick up a map at the tourist office. dingle is rolling panorama of dramatic cliffs, grazing sheep, and historic ruins. the area is so atmospheric that it was chosen as the setting for such hollywood movies as "ryan's daughter" and "far and away"... and it has the greatest concentration of ancient sites in this part of ireland. the doonbeg fort dates to 400 b.c. people and animals huddled for safety in these rooms built of piled stones. yes, western ireland is thoroughly littered with stones, and it seems that every successive group that passed through here found a different way in which to pile them. these beehive-shaped huts were built during the early christian period. they're so durable that, until recently, local farmers still used them to keep animals. the small chapel of gallarus oratory has stood resolutely here for 1,200 years. the builders of this elegantly simple, waterproof structure did not use mortar. instead, they