the navel of sicily, enna has roots that are prehistoric. high on a wind-swept hill, the town has watched centuries of invaders come and go like the passing seasons. enna and its hilltop neighbor calascibetta seem suspended in time. like so much of sicily, the towns are crumbling, romantic, and full of atmosphere. [singing in italian] [bell tolls] to truly experience small-town sicilian life you need to spend a day or two. in fact, if you only visit during midday, the towns can seem quite deserted. lunch is the time when shops close and people retreat behind their shuttered windows, and lunch lasts most of the afternoon. it's not until dusk when the heat subsides that the streets spring to life. [man singing in italian] everyone pours outside for the evening stroll or passeggiata. the large proportion of older citizens bespeaks the vast amount of emigration that's occurred here. in the 1950s, 10% of the population left the island in just 3 years. perhaps the best reason for a visit to enna is the nearby villa romana del casale, possibly once