gibraltar's old town is long and skinny, with one main street. gibraltarians are a proud bunch, remaining steadfastly loyal to britain. its 30,000 residents vote overwhelmingly to continue as a self-governing british dependency. within a generation, the economy has gone from one dominated by the military to one based on tourism. but it's much more than sunburned brits on holiday. gibraltar is a crossroads community with a jumble of muslims, jews, hindus, and italians joining the english, and all crowded together at the base of this mighty rock. with its strategic setting, gibraltar has an illustrious military history, and remnants of its martial past are everywhere. the rock is honeycombed with tunnels. many were blasted out by the brits in napoleonic times. during world war ii, britain drilled 30 more miles of tunnels. the 100-ton gun is one of many cannon that both protected gibraltar and controlled shipping in the strait. a cable car whisks visitors from downtown to the rock's 14,000-foot summit. from the top of the rock, spain's costa del sol

you can stand up on the boulevard and see spain and gibraltar and see all sorts of people passing through'm 62 years old. i didn't know international days which finished in 1956, but at that time, i think europeans may have outnumbered moroccans in the center of this city. it's not the case now. there's very few europeans actually living here full time. >> the notion of living a life apart, of being somewhere else, there are those who like that feeling. i like that feeling. then there are those who may live apart, may live somewhere else, but they're not entirely comfortable. it's the difference annoys them or is a burden. >> it did, and it frustrates them. some people have to leave home to find their home. i'm one of those people. whereas i didn't feel at home in the country i was born in at all but here i feel okay. i feel very, very happy here. >> there is indeed something special about this place. burroughs described the native quarter of tangier as a maze of sunless twisting streets filled with blind alleys. its smell was particularly notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seare