. >> i'm joined by two local chefs, mark noguchi of mission, known by some as the gooch.and andrew lei, and he's first generation vietnamese american, or would that be vietnamese-hawaiian. as you'll see, it gets complicated. >> i actually cooked on the east coast for three years and people would always be like, are you from hawaii? you're hawaiian? i said, no. second generation japanese. but hawaiian? no, i realized like, here in hawaii, we identify ourselves ethnically versus geographically. like, there's no way he or i would call ourselves hawaiians. we would get our asses kicked by a hawaiian. >> how many generations does it take? who qualifies as a hawaiian? >> a native of the land. in your blood. you come from a lineage of native hawaiian people. >> what's your feeling here? >> well, i do feel hawaiian in a sense, you know. it's my place. but culturally, that's a different story. >> you say you're not hawaiian. >> no. >> what's your feeling about spam? >> i love it. >> so you're hawaiian. >> i'm from hawaii. i'm born and raised, going to die 808. >> the owners are a