the fanciful gothic tyn church soars over everything as if to remind tourists lots of religious historye. back in the 15th century, when some christians were beginning to struggle against roman catholic dominance, this was prague's leading hussite church. hussites were followers of jan hus, whose statue graces the square. he was a local preacher who got in trouble with the vatican a hundred years before martin luther and the reformation. the chalice is a symbol of hus and his followers, who believed everyone, not just priests, should be able to partake in the eucharist, or holy communion. these days, huge crowds gather at the 15th-century astronomical clock back on the old town square. the dials seem to tell you everything you could possibly want to know. it tells the phases of the moon, sunset, current sign of the zodiac, each day's special saint, and, somehow, it even tells the time. and of course, 500 years ago, everything revolved around the earth. at the top of the hour, death tips his hourglass and pulls the cord. the windows open as the twelve apostles parade by, acknowledging th