green peas. [dynamic guitar music] and right now is the season. and they love these green peas here in season. and they serve them with ham. - oh! this looks amazing. - arbeyos. it's perfect. ♪ ♪ - oh... - croquette. ♪ ♪ everybody says that asturias has the best croquetas anywhere in spain... - really? everybody says that? - everybody, especially the people in asturias. - yeah, i would guess. - [stammers] [laughter] you see how creamy. good taste. ♪ ♪ ah, mussels. perfect. - clams. - they make a great steak, done with bleu cheese, right on top. cabrales on top of the steak. it's kind of the sauce happens right on the plate. - mm-hmm, okay. - it's amazing. [speaking spanish] ♪ ♪ - so, you want the whole cheese to spoon-- - yeah. it heavy, yeah? it heavy. it's spicy! - [laughs] - oh, no, i like spicy. - oh, buh-buh, buh-buh-buh-buh, no. [speaking spanish] ♪ ♪ - josé? ♪ ♪ - i love all the opinions. everybody's highly opinionated, as they should be. and nobody's gonna agree with anybody, only because, why to agree? - yeah, well, any place where people argue about food is a good place. ♪ ♪ so, once a year, twice a year you come? - yeah, well, at least once a year, but sometimes, i only show up for two, three hours. - really? - yeah. i close the eyes, i breathe in, breathe out, and, like, i'm home. especially when i go in the mountains. i love to be around people, because i have a lot of energy, and i like to feed off of the energy of the people too, and give energy away... - right. - but sometimes, i need my moments of solitude. i know you like moments of solitude too. they are powerful moments. - yeah, but i'm not walking up a mountain. - [stammers] you'll see. and i'm gonna be taking you probably to the heart of asturias... - oh, yeah? - it's where i feel the happiest. - so i gotta hike up a mountain? is that what you're saying? - well, i'll make a decent you. okay, we need more cider. [speaking spanish, cider pouring] [slow pizzicato music] ♪ ♪ [laughs] [cheers and applause] [enchanting organ music] ♪ ♪ we're going deep, deep. ♪ ♪ - through the mountain? - through the mountain. it's always deep. ♪ ♪ could you imagine, less than 20 years ago, people had to walk all the way to the top? - wow. - [chuckles] ♪ ♪ - wow. ♪ ♪ - [singing in spanish] ♪ ♪ it's a hot day today. - yeah. ♪ ♪ - [singing in spanish] ♪ ♪ i came overdressed, man. - [groans] ♪ ♪ [sighs] jesus. - okay, are you hungry now? - oh, god, are we there? - [chuckles] that's the town. - all right. - you're gonna see what the people of the mountain used to eat. beans. - well, to quote the great american poet robert frost: "beans, beans, the musical fruit. "the more you eat, the more you toot. 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[slow guitar music] ♪ ♪ - you see, here in asturias, nothing is plentiful... ♪ ♪ and the people of asturias, even in the hard times, they know what to do... with nothing. ♪ ♪ i think asturias has been a land that with nothing has able to do a lot, and that shows you the character of the people of asturias. ♪ ♪ [water rushing] [atmospheric music] ♪ ♪ - so, i'll tell you... five-hour hike up the mountain, it's tough. - [laughs] [pleasant music] - i'm enjoying this-- i'm enjoying this cold one. ♪ ♪ - boom. - i'll tell ya. ♪ ♪ - could you imagine when people that live here, the only way to go down and up and bring things was walking three, four hours? - i could well imagine. how long was that hike from the funicular to here? what, four hours? - [laughs] no, it was like-- - oh, my god, i was not sure i was gonna make it. - like, ten minutes, maybe 20. you're in very good shape. come on. this is nothing. and to eat this kind of food, we need to put some exercise always before. - oh, wow. ♪ ♪ [speaking spanish] - what is amazing is that, if i ask you, "what do you think this is, an appetizer, or it's a main course?" - right. - many people would say, "that's a main course." i mean, it's fatty, it's heavy. - i would definitely say that. - well, we eat these in asturias as an appetizer. the first course. - wow. and it's fa-- [stammers]--"fabado"? - fabada. - "favada." - fabada. ♪ ♪ it's very difficult to define a region by a dish, but without a doubt, asturias is defined by this dish. fabada. - deep, deep, soulful cooking. - you have to meet guillermina. probably she's inside. ♪ ♪ [slow guitar music] guillermina's a very special person. 101 years old. well, she is not in the kitchen anymore, but until not too long ago, she was. ♪ ♪ in this day and age, it seems that kitchens are manned by men. we don't realize who is feeding humanity are women. in a woman like guillermina, you see very much that. she's the only one that could be up there in that place, at the end of the world, feeding the few that will arrive there, to give them enough energy to go back. ♪ ♪ [dog barking] - these beans really are magical beans. - 'cause they are special. - yeah. - same seeds anywhere else, but they don't grow the same way they grow here. - mm-hmm. - it's something about this land and the weather and the altitude that makes these beans very special. - tastes like it did when it was just little josé up here in his lederhosen. - [laughs] - tastes the same? - tastes the same. - you happy? - this is as good. - i'm happy too. - this is as good. and it's worth it. it's worth the walk. - mmm. [soft guitar music] - i mean, you show all of us that it's worth it to go to the end of the world for the right food... and for the right stories. - well, in this case, yes. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ do you know how to play this game? - tony, i've seen these often. i've never played in my life. ♪ ♪ - [speaking spanish] ♪ ♪ - so it has to be over the line? - over the line, very important. - right, okay, good. - so, it has to hit that sur-- we know that. - all right. but it's okay if you hit any pin? but it can bounce? - it can bounce, yeah. eh? [woman speaking spanish] so the ball has to go spinning, so when it touches, the spin will take the ball... - right, i can do that. - probably no. ♪ ♪ - [speaking spanish] i cannot believe this is the first time. yeah, sí, vamonos. - eso... cuatro! muy bien! ♪ ♪ - all right. not bad. - try to beat that. - okay. [exciting guitar music] - look it, look it... with the hand, a little bit of a spin. [grunts] ♪ ♪ - tres! tres! [applause] ♪ ♪ - [speaks spanish] ♪ ♪ three points! ♪ ♪ - ugh. this game is rigged. ♪ ♪ [laughs] - that was a heck of a good shot, man. - ah, too much. - [laughs] his throw. - they're taking shelter. - they are? 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[waves crashing] - asturias is really... to a degree, it's land of plenty, but... [elegant string music] to a degree, it's not. ♪ ♪ it's not what you want when you want it. it is when the land wants to give it to you. the river, the mountains... the sea. you have to respect the land first, and maybe then... the land wants to give you something. ♪ ♪ asturias, many of the restaurants you're gonna go, you're gonna get that feeling... ♪ ♪ it's something beyond just the plate you have in front of you. ♪ ♪ it is the understanding of... the happiness that hardship gives you. ♪ ♪ - so, we're drinking cider? - that's what we should be drinking. - and it goes good with the seafood? - the biggest partnership in the history of mankind. - wow, strong words. - by far. yeah. [light music] to me, this is probably one of the most difficult things to do. look at how he's hitting the rim of the glass. look at all the oxygen that they're putting. look at--i mean, i love this tradition. and he doesn't even look at the glass. come on. he's like a jedi. ♪ ♪ - [speaks spanish] that's beautiful. - oricios. sea urchin. - yeah. ♪ ♪ - you know what, i'd kill for these. - mmm. holy crap. ♪ ♪ this is one of my favorite things on earth. good sea urchin. - me too. - mmm. - probably this is one of the best animals we have in the ocean. - right. - oricios. - oricios. ♪ ♪ - traditionally, i like to eat them raw, but in asturias, the vast majority of the people, they like them put into water... - really? - for a few seconds. this is plancha. and this is very much the cooking of spain, the cooking of asturias. the seafood will be raw, will be a slightly boil, or will be done on the flattop, quick, fast. - right. - [speaks spanish] - the centollo: the spider crab. - oh, yeah... - where is instagram? - yeah, i'm on it. - boom. - i'm on it, dude. i'm getting a zoom shot. people complain about my pans... - [laughs] - but i'm going in for a zoom. going in for the close. - boom. - oh, yeah. - okay, my man. ♪ ♪ - this... - this is unbelievable. - is what i'm talking about. - this is one of the best centollos i've seen in a long time. - oh, i mean, it's unbelievable. - are you smelling? smell this. smell. - yeah. - do you understand? this is the smell of seafood. ♪ ♪ sometimes, we forget that it doesn't matter how good is the seafood or fresh. i don't care if it's the catch of the day. if it's overcooked, it's gone. ♪ ♪ [man speaking spanish] - we got percebes. - gooseneck barnacles, my boy. - sweet! - [speaks spanish] - all right. - [laughs] all right. - what, we're going swimming for those things later? - you want to? - what, do you just dive right in with a speedo and rip them off the wall, right? - yep. - easy. - no. [chuckles] [stealthy percussive music] ♪ ♪ you have to respect that at the sea... ♪ ♪ these guys put their lives at risk to bring the fresh gooseneck barnacles to the tables. but it's a flavor like no other. sometimes, i feel like, wow, we don't appreciate enough when we eat these foods. a whole bunch goes into it. with other fishermen, we wouldn't be having what we have. ♪ ♪ so you like the cider? - yes, this is quite delicious. - you see how apples and seafood go hand by hand? because this is very acidic. 'cause nice acidity goes so well with the saltiness. it's unbelievable. it's a perfect match. - it's like ebony and ivory living together in harmony. - [laughs] - [chuckles] - where do you come up with this phrase? - that's, uh, i think sir paul mccartney. one of his more insipid lines. hey, is that the new iphone 15 pro? yeah, i got it at t-mobile. hey be right back... whoa, i love that titanium! you need to go to t-mobile where new and existing customers can get iphone 15 pro on them. and with their best go5g plan, you'll have the freedom to upgrade every year. you are very wise reflection common! and you're very handsome real common. at t-mobile. get the iphone 15 pro with titanium on us now! and the freedom to upgrade every year. new dove men bodywash gives you 24 hours of nourishing micromoisture. that means your skin still feels healthy and smooth now... now... ...and now too. get healthier, smoother feeling skin all day. oh, oh, oh...i'll be the judge of that. oh, that's nice... oh!! searchable, verified reviews. that's better than the ham, and i've never said that. booking.com booking.yeah ♪ (upbeat music) ♪ ( ♪ ) ( ♪ ) ( ♪ ) -awww. -awww. -awww. -nope. 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[wind whooshing] [tranquil music] ♪ ♪ - well, you told me asturias was beautiful, but, uh, man, you didn't lie. it is amazing. i can't believe these, like, farmhouses all the way up these mountains. - there are no farmhouses. it's where the shepherds stay for weeks at a time sometimes, taking care of the herd, of the goats, of the sheep, of the cows. their cheeses are made with the three milks. ♪ ♪ and asturias has the biggest concentration of cheese makers anywhere in the world, period. ♪ ♪ and we use the land like nobody. especially using the caves to cure them is brilliant. ♪ ♪ not a lot of places in the world that you have something like this, caves that produce, for centuries, amazing cheese. ♪ ♪ - do you think you could do a cheese-themed, like, uh, theme park? - that can be fun. - a giant volcano of cheese... - [laughs] - take little boats around in a fondue pot. - i don't know, but you know what i think sometimes? - yeah? - you know, "apocalypse now"... - yes. - when marlon brando-- i don't remember what was the name of the-- - kurtz. colonel kurtz. - yeah! - walter e. kurtz. - and they finally find him... - right. right. - living in that cave? i always dreamed, like, one day, i'm good gonna end in a place like this... - but just surrounded by chee-- it'll be a cheese cave. - surrounded by cheese and living alone. and maybe one day, my friend eric ripert and tony bourdain visited me, before i lose control of my mind. - so, wait a minute, i'm seeing this. you're dressed all in black. we shave your head. you're sitting in this dark cheese cave. eric ripert playing corporal willard comes to kill you. finds you surrounded by all of these fantastic cheeses. i'd play the dennis hopper role, of course. - it's gonna happen. i see it happening. [richard wagner's "ride of the valkyries"] [indistinct radio chatter] ♪ ♪ - you ever seen a snail crawl across the edge of a straight razor? ♪ ♪ - i can just see eric now, dressed in fatigue, saying, "they said your methods are unsound." - man, why do you always finish your beer and i barely begin? - [sighs] professional. i'm seriously liking this cheese. you export these, right? - spain, oh, yeah, big exports. - yeah. - like, this one is cabrales, which always was my favorite. - but that is, like, super funky, right? - cabrales? i love it. i do really love cabrales. - this is really lovely. this is fantastic. it just all depends on how far into the funk zone you go. - and look at--look at-- look at--look at this. it's almost, like, green first salmon caught on the river. - el campano. the first salmon of the season. yeah. campano. [ethereal music] today, for the entire day, around the rivers of asturias, hundreds of fishermen trying to get the permit in a kind of an auction, in a kind of a lottery, where they are gonna grant them certain parts of the river... - right. - and only for 30 minutes, one hour at a time, depending how many fishermen show up. - siete. - no commercial fishermen? - [speaks spanish] - only the campano. ♪ ♪ - the old days, salmon was plentiful. and the first salmon is called el campano, and el campano means, really, from the bells that will ring on the churches near the river where the salmon was caught, not as a celebration of the salmon, but as a way to tell everybody that salmons are back. "let's go back to the river and fish them, 'cause that is the food we are waiting for." ♪ ♪ i get super emotional when i think-- take a look at all these photos. i remember watching those same photos of my g