wolfgang, bad ischl, and hallstatt. for a city that has such a concentration of old world charm and interesting sites, salzburg is surprisingly manageable and hassle-free. but keep in mind that during high season, accommodations are sometimes hard to find, so reservations are always a good idea. also, parking is very expensive in the town center, but you can reach most sites on foot or via public transportation. the altstad, or "old town", is a mosaic of grand public buildings built around spacious squares and sculptured fountains. in the main square, or "residenzplatz", you'll find the world's largest baroque fountain. it dates to 1656. salzburg is all about music. every corner seems to resonate with street musicians and spontaneous performances. we're visiting too late to catch the famous salzburg music festival, which begins in late july, but we happened across a gathering of austrian brass bands. [playing a march] there's nothing like a brass band to get your heart pumping. the traditional costumes and rousing songs