my first time in tel aviv was in 1983 with hanoi rocks. a couple of decades later, i was here again with the new york dolls. it's a great pulsing city with culture, but the vibe can be a little misleading. when you're kicking back on a beautiful beach, it's easy to forget what's going on, for example, in gaza, less than 60 miles away. [man sings in foreign language] yaffa: there are three musical traditions that get away with turning major into minor or minor into major. the first one is balkan gypsy music. then there's the blues, and the third one is klezmer. klezmer combines joy and melancholy; happiness and sadness; tragedy and cedy. oy division is a time machine of the genre, bringing klezmer's age-old sound and message to this day in a way that will make even the most callous listener smile. assaf: originally it means a profession, not...a style of music in yiddish. so klezmer is the guy that plays music for a living. in that society, it means it's the lowest of the low of the social ladder. yaffa: oh, no! assaf: so in jewish music in