from, isfahan or from tehran?s, hello. >> welcome. >> thank you. thank you so much. very beautiful. ♪ >> i'm guessing from the decor, this is a former wrestler's hangout? ♪ ♪ tucked deep in the labyrinth of the bazaar, the smell of something very, very good. this shop has been here doing the same thing for a hundred years. and based on the line, it must be doing it right. i've had biryani in india. i had it in uzbekistan but there's no question who invented it. >> no. >> biryani. maybe you know the word. though this doesn't look like any biryani i ever had. minced lamb shoulder, onion, tumeric, cinnamon, mint, and of course, saffron, more valuable than gold by weight. this is delicious. >> very good. >> isfahan today one of the most visited areas by tourists. >> yeah, everybody know if you go to tehran, you don't visit isfahan, you are wasting your time. ♪ >> the royal mosques, the second largest square in the world behind tiananmen in china. at dusk families come to the square to cool off, picnic, and have, yes,