from, isfahan or from tehran? is a former wrestler's hangout? ♪ ♪ tucked deep in the labyrinth of the bazaar, the smell of something very, very good. this shop has been here doing the same thing for a hundred years. and based on the line, it must be doing it right. i've had biryani in india. i had it in uzbekistan but there's no question who invented it. >> no. >> biryani. maybe you know the word. though this doesn't look like any biryani i ever had. minced lamb shoulder, onion, tumeric, cinnamon, mint, and of course, saffron, more valuable than gold by weight. this is delicious. >> very good. >> isfahan today one of the most visited areas by tourists. >> yeah, everybody know if you go to tehran, you don't visit isfahan, you are wasting your time. ♪ >> the royal mosques, the second largest square in the world behind tiananmen in china. at dusk families come to the square to cool off, picnic, and have, yes, it looks like even a little bit of fun. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ i work 'round the clock. i want my blood sugar to sta