from isfahan? or from tehran?écor this is a former wrestlers' hangout? ♪ ♪ tucked deep in the labyrinth of isfahan's bazaar, the smell of something very, very good. this shop has been here doing the same thing for a hundred years. and based on the line, it must be doing it right. i've had beryani in india. i've had it in uzbekistan. but, there's no question who invented beryani. >> farrokh: no. no way. [ laughter ] >> anthony: beryani. maybe you know the word. though this doesn't look like any beryani i've ever had. minced lamb shoulder, onion, turmeric, cinnamon, mint, and of course, saffron. more valuable than gold by weight. this is delicious. >> farrokh: mmm! really good. >> anthony: isfahan today, one of the most visited areas by tourists? >> farrokh: yeah everybody you know, if you come to iran and you don't visit isfahan, you have wasted your time. >> anthony: the royal mosque sits astride imam square, the second-largest square in the world, behind tiananmen in china. at dusk, families come to square to coo